engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

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gnarnold
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:02 pm

Well i think that there is no blockage of coolant since the flow of coolant is good without the t stat.
Last edited by gnarnold on Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|

gnarnold
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Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 7:28 am
My tercel:: 1983 SR5 4x4 with a tummy tuck and a nose job and now a pace maker!
Location: jordache ,ca

Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:04 pm

Also head gasketv is good ,water pump is new and fully functional. it seems to me that the tstat isn't opening which wouldn't be that hard to figure out and remedy if it wasn't for the fact that Ive tried three different t stats from two different stores ranging fromm the 4.99 to the fail safe 15.99 .it only goes in one way .....right???ive tested the t stats in boiling water and they go at 180 degrees .what the flock am I doing wrong here??/ anyone ???I have one hand ful of hair left on my head and the t stat is got it in its crosshairs.thanks.
sorry about the profane language
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|

gnarnold
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 24, 2014 9:56 am

help me anyone please .what is going on with my t stat issue??????
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|

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irowiki
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by irowiki » Mon Feb 24, 2014 9:59 am

So what is happening exactly?
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gnarnold
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My tercel:: 1983 SR5 4x4 with a tummy tuck and a nose job and now a pace maker!
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:18 am

thank you I thought I being shunned like an amish rock star.
heres the situation:
ive tried three different t stats all different price ranges from two different stores .and I have a t stat not opening issue .upon taking out t-stat coolant flow is fine temp is fine fan comes on at long stop lights as it should 9only for a few seconds)but when I install the tstat (it only goes in one way right?)no flow hoses are cold rad is cold fan wont come on car temp indicator climbs very slow at first then fast after about 7 - 8 min I have to shut it off in fear of screwing things up .
is it possible that I need a 160 degree tstat instead of 180 which all three were?
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|

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irowiki
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by irowiki » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:42 am

It is possible your radiator is clogged and isn't providing enough cooling.

Or when you're installing your thermostat, it isn't being mounted correctly?
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marlinh
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by marlinh » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:44 am

What else have you done? Too many posts to go through...Did you replace the rad and cap as well? You need to use a thermostat so the engine runs at the proper temperature.

Have you checked the actual temperature of the head with an infra red gun? Your temp gauge may be inaccurate as Petros mentioned. The upper hose should get hot until the thermostat opens and then the lower hose gets warm.

Do you get any heat in the car?

gnarnold
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:48 am

New cap (new everything regarding cooling system. Hoses stay cold even as temp reaches the bottom line right above the picture of the thermometer flow of coolant is good w/out. Tstat. Yes i get heat .and also the temp stays barely above bottom line while driving
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marlinh
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by marlinh » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:54 am

That doesn't make sense. Have you bled the system properly? The upper hose should start getting warm as the engine warms up. What is happening with the coolant hoses going to the heater core. Are they warming up at all? Do you get any heat inside the car?
Last edited by marlinh on Mon Feb 24, 2014 12:04 pm, edited 3 times in total.

gnarnold
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:59 am

with the tstat in :cold hoses and cold rad even as the temp indicator gets high enough to freak me out
tstat out:hoses get warm after a little bit and feel the flow of coolant
direction of tstat goes one way right or it doesn't get clearance and hits thye housing
heat works in the car .
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|

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marlinh
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by marlinh » Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:34 am

How long is the car running when it seems to get so hot. Can you borrow a temp gun to rule out the gauge in the car?

Rad is new as well? You bled the system after installing the t-stat?

If there is air in the system, you will get a high temp reading on the gauge on the dash. It needs to be bled prooperly.

gnarnold
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Mon Feb 24, 2014 12:17 pm

no air burped it and everything .the whole system is good except the t stat issue it just wont open upon taking out the tstat this last time as I removed the tstat housing a bunch of coolant came pouring out as if it wasbeing held there.
gotta go to work just didn't want anyone to think I was ignoring them .thanks guys I don't wannascrew this engine I got off the web up ive been lucky so far and have come leaps and bounds with this tyrant a.k.a tercel
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|

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Petros
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by Petros » Mon Feb 24, 2014 1:41 pm

Yes, the t-stat can only be install one way, there is not enough room in the housing to but in backwards.

As I understand it, you install the new t-stat, and the gauge goes up near the red zone, you remove it and drive it, it stays at the bottom of the gauge. This usually points to the t-stat, it should be maintaining the engine at a constant temp, it will open and close slightly to adjust coolant flow as you put more or less demand on the engine, use your heater, etc. With the t-stat out it allow it to over cool, since coolant flow is uncontrolled, it is not good to run with it always cold, but for short distances it will not make much difference. the t-stat allows it to warm up faster.

There is a simple test for the t-stat, you put in a pan of water on the stove (I hang from a wire so I can pull it out and get a good look at it), with a thermometer in the water, should stay closed until the temp reaches near 180 deg F, and it should start to open. by the time it reaches about 185 or so it should be all the way open. If it does not open all the way it will act like this, or if it does not open at all, t-stat is bad.

what happens when you turn the heater on full when the temp is high on the gauge? does it drop rapidly, or does it stay high?

the heater can be used to control engine temp if the t-stat is not opening all the way or if the rad is plugged and ineffective, but if turning on the heater fan makes no difference than there may be more than one thing wrong.

Did you try a new temp sender? they do not cost much and it is possible it is not actually too hot, but the upper half of the range of the sender is bad. These are usually very reliable, so if you have another Toyota you can try swamping in a borrowed one, or a used one from a wrecking yard.

everything indicated points to a bad t-stat (though three bad ones in a row would be exceedingly rare), or a partially working sender. It could also be some other blockage, or not enough coolant (air trapped in the system). So if everything else is working that is about it. I have seen an old weak lower radiator hose collapse when you rev the engine (high water pump suction), and it closes off the coolant supply, though that is pretty rare but a possibility if the lower hose is very old.

I have not found that trapped air is a major problem on these cars, usually after filling it up, you run it until fully warm, with the heater on full, and then check the coolant level (after it cools off some) that topping it up is all that needs to be done. On some other model of cars you have to bleed out all the air from the system because it gets trapped there, but I have not found this to be true with the Tercel.
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gnarnold
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by gnarnold » Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:27 am

I know it is strange a mechanic told me its strange...new hoses as well new pump all that crap is there a smaller cxap without the spring...im gonna try the running the engine and adding coolant with the heater on .I got a feeling .a hunch if you will. as I didn't run the heater upon running and burping and etc. the last fill it had
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marlinh
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Re: engine swap 3AC to 3A wont idle just wanna...

Post by marlinh » Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:56 am

Is the rad new? You haven't confirmed this.

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