Special Tools
Intro:
Hello all, it is I, Fingers, the writer of this hopefully helpful little guide-type thingie. I hope that someone will get something out of this, if not, then hey, it just took hours of key-poking for fun and memories for myself. If anyone has questions, feel free to e-mail me at Fingers@Helliphino.com. Hope you enjoy!
The Meat:
I am not sure of any particular 'Special Tools' needed for this job, as far as weird extractor-compression-debobulator things, but there are a few tools which you need to make this project easier (i.e. you don't break out the gas and matches half way through), and I will give you this as a list so you will not need to run to the hardware/auto parts store every other few hours (nothing is more frustrating than getting in another car when you REALLY just want to hop into your car). Well, enough babbling, here we go...
My TOP TEN tools you HAVE to have:
1)A few good ratchets.
I would advise on 2 sizes-3/8 and 1/2 inch drives. You could probably get away with just a 3/8, but you will need a high quality piece and a no. 2 (see below). I personally used Husky, they have taken over the replace-under-any-circumstance warranty like Craftsman used to have. Heck they will replace your broken Craftsman with one of theirs. *I do not work for, or am in anyway affiliated with Husky corp.* Also, I prefer ratchets with smooth handles, the knurled ones are fine, but after hours of using them, they eat your hands up. Knurled=wear gloves.
2)A long piece of pipe.
I bought a piece from my local hardware store (4 bucks), and it is one of the best purchases EVER. Just make sure it is wide enough to fit your ratchet handles in, and make sure it is of a good length, too long, you cany use it under the car, too short, it doesn't provide enough extra leverage. I used a piece about 3ft long, and it broke free almost any stubborn bolt I met. Besides, you can always use it to beat up those damn Suburban driving poopheads who laugh at you at the gas station while they spend twice as much to fill their tanks to drive 1/2 the distance....sorry, that was just me. He he, uhh, I'm really not a violent guy. Seriously.
3)A breaker bar.
Another nut/bolt buster. These can drive you crazy due to the fixed shaft on the end. It sucks when you move a stubborn bolt a tiny bit, and have to take off the socket and rotate it 1/4 turn. But, since there is no ratchet assembly, you will find situations where that skinny head will fit that a regular ratchet won't. Plus, with the pipe above, you have a nearly indestructable tool against the evil rusty bolts and nuts. Just be careful, with this kind of torque, you have to watch for breaking stuff. If it seems too tough, let it be and spray the little bugger down with wd40 and let it sit longer (more on this later). Oh yeah, I'd go with a 1/2" drive on this puppy, not only is it beefy, it looks like you are a die-hard mechanic when it sits in your toolbox. Especially if is is nice and chrome!
4)A hefty hammer.
Good for smacking on your HIGH QUALITY ratchet when you can't get the pipe or breaker bar (or both) in there. Or for smashing the car to crap when you give up. But, hopefully, you will not need to beat the car due to my invaluable help I will have provided you here. I actually broke more bolts free with the hammer/ratchet combo than with any other, due to space constraints.
5)Adapters for your sockets.
This is mostly to save money, but at times they will be life savers. I almost always buy my sockets in 3/8" drive, so a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter is nice so you can use the same sockets on your 1/2 ratchet. Plus, in tight spots you will just have enough space to fit the 3/8 socket on, and since the adapter is narrower than some 1/2 sockets, you will be able to use the larger ratchet (especially using extensions). This will become evident when working on the exhaust side of the engine. Also in this group, I include extensions. You will need a variety of lengths, that way you can adapt to almost any distance from the ratchet to the socket. I would say a few shorties, and one of each of the longer lengths. Plus, sometimes the distance given to you from the socket adapters will be just the right amount to get access to some crazy bolts. Once again, good quality makes for less twist and less probability of breakage.
6)Sockets, plain and simple.
You need 2 sets to make this simpler. In all reality, you could buy individual sockets, for you will use only a few (all Toy's use pretty much just 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm, with a few larger ones here and there), but I would advise a good set of standard and deep well metrics. I know you will need a 19, and either a 16 or 17 at some point, depending on what you are doing, but that is only if you are putting on parts from one engine onto the other. But I will cross that path when I come to it. Anyway, pick up a GOOD set with a good range of sizes. The set will cost a slight bit more than the required individuals, but if you are going to undertake this project, you might as well go full on. You never know when you may need that 4.5mm (probably never, forget that complete of a set, unless you really want to look like a gearhead).
7)Metric wrenches.
I was reading on the forum about the guy who couldn't get to the motor mounts off due to lack of access, but a good ole' open-ended wrench and a hammer makes easy work of this task. Once again, you don't REALLY need a full set, but you might as well spend the meager extra cash on the set, just in case. There will be many spots where these will be the only way to get to some bolts/nuts, luckily, these are easy ones to break free. But you always have the hammer, just in case.... Oh yeah, unless you are at a wacky hardware store, they will be combo wrenches, and that my friend, is a good thing. The box ends do not slip as easy as the open ends do on tough EVIL bolts/nuts. Nuff said.
Engine hoist, or a bunch of buff friends....O.K. Hopefully you can either find someplace to rent this, or a friend who has one. Mine cost about $225 (u.s.d.), but hopefully I will get many uses out of it (got a Camry tranny swap, and a 68 Mustang resto project as well). They are heavy as hell, a boring pain to assemble, and a bitch to store away. You may get away with a hoist you can hang from something, they are much less expensive, but, then again, they are not portable (read-pull engine, move car, raise engine, move car back) and you have to have something to hang them from. But if you have a few buff friends, this could be avoided, I guess. Heck, I lifted the 4a longblock by myself, so it could be done. Oh yeah, make sure to get a leveler for the hoist, or at least a length of chain and some bolts (my way) so you have a way to angle the engine for easy removal/installation. For some reason, these are not usually included with this pricey tool. Using the chain requires a bit more trial and error, but works all the same. And as far as lifting weight goes, the tiny Terc engine is so light, I don't think they make one wimpy enough to crash under the light load. Then again, I have been wrong before (once).
9)Various pliers.
These will make removing all of the crappy hose clamps easier. Plus, there are some situations where they will be easier to use for removing some broken, yet not hand-removable bolts. That's it, you will know when they will be needed.
10)A small knife.
A small knife? Yeah. Well see here, you will run into many hoses in this task, and a small knife will allow you to get under them so you can break them free. Or you can just cut them biznitches and replace them later. Plus, if you are swapping any gasketed parts, you can use this to scrape the old gasket suff off (a putty knife helps for this as well).
Well that is it for required (I may come across more later, but this is all I can think of for now), now fro the section you all have waited for....
Tools You May Need To Make The Job Easier (at least in my experience)
Here is my top 11 list:
1)Propane torch.
You may come across som bolts that just don't want to break free. Especially in confined spaces where you can't use the hammer or pipe to break them free. Honestly, I only used this in one place. But it was invaluable in that spot. And that spot was....the exhaust to manifold bolts/studs. No matter how hard I tried, there was not enough space to put a good stank on these bolts, well actually the top-most bolt. No amount of wd40 or anything could loosen this constantly heated/cooled bolt. I guess you could run the engine till it heats up, and then break it free, but even if you would be willing to risk the overall heat/burning situation, I would think the reason you are doing this fun task would be due to an non-running engine. Anyway, if you have the same problem as I did, heating the manifold flange(?) around the stud will cause the metal to expand, making the bolt quite easy to remove. At least it was for me. Then again, who the hell am I? Oh yeah, watch out for the gas lines!
2)Some type of prying tool.
This will help you when you need to pry something (duh). I bought a short pry bar, but a tire iron or something could work. This is useful for separating gasketed surfaces from each other, as well as the tranny from the block. Just be sure not to scar any gasket surfaces, for that is a bad thing. And if you do, just remember, gasket sealer was made for a purpose.
3)Containers galore.
I went to my dollar store and bought 12 disposable bowls with lids ($3 u.s.d.) and a used a sharpie, so I could separate all of the bolts/nuts into different containers for easy replacement. Even when replacing certain bolts/nuts, it was nice to be able to go buy them and swap them into the proper containers. Nothing more frustrating than using a bolt someplace, then realizing later that it should have been the shorter (or longer) one that you now need for something else. I know it is always stated in manuals and such, but this was the first time I didn't just use a big bowl for all bolts, thinking I would remember later. Ahhh, so much easier.
4)Engine cleaner.
Use this to get all the grime off of your working area. Trying to grab a bolt with grimy greasy hands sucks. I would advise spraying the engine compartment and underside down, letting it soak (go ahead, vacuum out the interior while it works its magic), then spray it down with a high(ish) pressure spray. There are a few types of cleaner, if you are in an open area, use the cheaper, stinky type. But the citrusy type stuff works a little less better, but will not require your garage to air out for a day , just so you can breath in there.
5)Engine stand.
Not required, but will make it a bit easier to pull parts off old engine, and put on new engine (if neccessary). Not very pricey, still kinda bulky to store. That's it, just make sure you go to the store and buy some long bolts to attach the block to the stand (once again, not included with the tool). You could just use the hoist for this task, but unless you own it or are doing this all in a short period of time, this may make it a bit less pricey.
6)A friend ("....you've got a friend....").
Even though it may be possible to do this solo, you can save much time and sanity if you have a friend. Especially when it comes down to lining up the engine to the tranny during install. Not only that, if you are a drinker, it helps keep you from feeling like a loser, drinking by yourself, either after or during this process. Besides, it is so much easier to have someone hold up certain parts (i.e. manifolds, oil pan, etc.) while you bolt them back on. And the conversation can't hurt either. I used a J. Hill model 1974, and it worked quite well.
7)Spray lube.
I used wd40. Helps loosen stuck bolts. Plus, spray it on your hands before going into the house, and with a wipe of a towel it will remove almost anything from grease to paint. Also can help keep your tools in a good working condition.
A CD player/radio.Takes you mind off of the drive to smash, quit, or kill.
9)A good torque wrench.
This is a MUST if you are doing any engine assembly stuff. You can kinda fake it on brackets and such (many places you couldn't use it if you wanted to), but as far as engine bolts, you really should use one of these. Now I have done many repairs without this tool, and without any problems, but if you are going for accuracy, you might as well do it all to spec. Some bolts will require certain torques to prevent warping and such, and some just to avoid breaking the bolts under your awesome strength. A good 1/2" drive will be most useful, but unless you spend big bucks, you will just have to guess on things such as the oil pan and such, as most will not measure that small of a measure. I personally prefer a click-style wrench, it is so much easier to set and read.
10)A repair manual.
Lets say you are sure that all is disconneted, but the engine still won't come away from the tranny. Hmmm. 'I guess I'll break out the manual'. 'Aww shucks, I guess I do have to remove the shield from the tranny so the converter can slip out....'. Yeah, I couldn't see the trouble this little flimsy piece would cause. Hopefully I will cover all you need to know, but, just in case....
11)Masking tape and writing element.
Keep in mind that when I purchased my Terc, the engine had most things disassembled. The only things left before pulling it out was all tranny related bolts, mounts, and odds and ends accesories (I will give a full run down in the removal process though), and that sucked. As far as electrical connections (plugs and such) we have to thank Toyota for making this almost fool proof (all clips will fit logicly only into like recepticles). But when it comes to vacuum lined, it can be a bit of a hassle. So, when you pull all vac lines off, take the time to tape and label them with where they need to go. If possible, take pictures BEFORE you remove anything so you can kinda figure it all out should some tape fall off. Trust me, as cool as a vac diagram may be, it still is not easy to follow. The only electrical wires you may want to mark is the temp sensors, they are both single wire clips, and are so close to each other you can get them switched (although if you fire the car up and your temp light comes on and your temp gauge don't work, you can just switch them).
Well, I think that is about it, if there is anything I forgot, I will update later. If the mods think this is too wordy or just too much, please let me know, I will make all following installments shorter and less personal. But it is hard to go into such a topic without a bit of depth and personal insight. Otherwise, I hope you all enjoy and find this of some use. See you in a couple of days for my next update!
