Fingers Engine Swap Write-up.

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Fingers
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Location: St. Louis, MO

Post by Fingers »

My 86 Toyota Tercel 4wd Engine Swap pt.1

Special Tools

Intro:
Hello all, it is I, Fingers, the writer of this hopefully helpful little guide-type thingie. I hope that someone will get something out of this, if not, then hey, it just took hours of key-poking for fun and memories for myself. If anyone has questions, feel free to e-mail me at Fingers@Helliphino.com. Hope you enjoy!

The Meat:

I am not sure of any particular 'Special Tools' needed for this job, as far as weird extractor-compression-debobulator things, but there are a few tools which you need to make this project easier (i.e. you don't break out the gas and matches half way through), and I will give you this as a list so you will not need to run to the hardware/auto parts store every other few hours (nothing is more frustrating than getting in another car when you REALLY just want to hop into your car). Well, enough babbling, here we go...

My TOP TEN tools you HAVE to have:

1)A few good ratchets.

I would advise on 2 sizes-3/8 and 1/2 inch drives. You could probably get away with just a 3/8, but you will need a high quality piece and a no. 2 (see below). I personally used Husky, they have taken over the replace-under-any-circumstance warranty like Craftsman used to have. Heck they will replace your broken Craftsman with one of theirs. *I do not work for, or am in anyway affiliated with Husky corp.* Also, I prefer ratchets with smooth handles, the knurled ones are fine, but after hours of using them, they eat your hands up. Knurled=wear gloves.

2)A long piece of pipe.

I bought a piece from my local hardware store (4 bucks), and it is one of the best purchases EVER. Just make sure it is wide enough to fit your ratchet handles in, and make sure it is of a good length, too long, you cany use it under the car, too short, it doesn't provide enough extra leverage. I used a piece about 3ft long, and it broke free almost any stubborn bolt I met. Besides, you can always use it to beat up those damn Suburban driving poopheads who laugh at you at the gas station while they spend twice as much to fill their tanks to drive 1/2 the distance....sorry, that was just me. He he, uhh, I'm really not a violent guy. Seriously.

3)A breaker bar.

Another nut/bolt buster. These can drive you crazy due to the fixed shaft on the end. It sucks when you move a stubborn bolt a tiny bit, and have to take off the socket and rotate it 1/4 turn. But, since there is no ratchet assembly, you will find situations where that skinny head will fit that a regular ratchet won't. Plus, with the pipe above, you have a nearly indestructable tool against the evil rusty bolts and nuts. Just be careful, with this kind of torque, you have to watch for breaking stuff. If it seems too tough, let it be and spray the little bugger down with wd40 and let it sit longer (more on this later). Oh yeah, I'd go with a 1/2" drive on this puppy, not only is it beefy, it looks like you are a die-hard mechanic when it sits in your toolbox. Especially if is is nice and chrome!

4)A hefty hammer.

Good for smacking on your HIGH QUALITY ratchet when you can't get the pipe or breaker bar (or both) in there. Or for smashing the car to crap when you give up. But, hopefully, you will not need to beat the car due to my invaluable help I will have provided you here. I actually broke more bolts free with the hammer/ratchet combo than with any other, due to space constraints.

5)Adapters for your sockets.

This is mostly to save money, but at times they will be life savers. I almost always buy my sockets in 3/8" drive, so a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter is nice so you can use the same sockets on your 1/2 ratchet. Plus, in tight spots you will just have enough space to fit the 3/8 socket on, and since the adapter is narrower than some 1/2 sockets, you will be able to use the larger ratchet (especially using extensions). This will become evident when working on the exhaust side of the engine. Also in this group, I include extensions. You will need a variety of lengths, that way you can adapt to almost any distance from the ratchet to the socket. I would say a few shorties, and one of each of the longer lengths. Plus, sometimes the distance given to you from the socket adapters will be just the right amount to get access to some crazy bolts. Once again, good quality makes for less twist and less probability of breakage.

6)Sockets, plain and simple.

You need 2 sets to make this simpler. In all reality, you could buy individual sockets, for you will use only a few (all Toy's use pretty much just 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm, with a few larger ones here and there), but I would advise a good set of standard and deep well metrics. I know you will need a 19, and either a 16 or 17 at some point, depending on what you are doing, but that is only if you are putting on parts from one engine onto the other. But I will cross that path when I come to it. Anyway, pick up a GOOD set with a good range of sizes. The set will cost a slight bit more than the required individuals, but if you are going to undertake this project, you might as well go full on. You never know when you may need that 4.5mm (probably never, forget that complete of a set, unless you really want to look like a gearhead).

7)Metric wrenches.

I was reading on the forum about the guy who couldn't get to the motor mounts off due to lack of access, but a good ole' open-ended wrench and a hammer makes easy work of this task. Once again, you don't REALLY need a full set, but you might as well spend the meager extra cash on the set, just in case. There will be many spots where these will be the only way to get to some bolts/nuts, luckily, these are easy ones to break free. But you always have the hammer, just in case.... Oh yeah, unless you are at a wacky hardware store, they will be combo wrenches, and that my friend, is a good thing. The box ends do not slip as easy as the open ends do on tough EVIL bolts/nuts. Nuff said.

8)Engine hoist, or a bunch of buff friends....

O.K. Hopefully you can either find someplace to rent this, or a friend who has one. Mine cost about $225 (u.s.d.), but hopefully I will get many uses out of it (got a Camry tranny swap, and a 68 Mustang resto project as well). They are heavy as hell, a boring pain to assemble, and a bitch to store away. You may get away with a hoist you can hang from something, they are much less expensive, but, then again, they are not portable (read-pull engine, move car, raise engine, move car back) and you have to have something to hang them from. But if you have a few buff friends, this could be avoided, I guess. Heck, I lifted the 4a longblock by myself, so it could be done. Oh yeah, make sure to get a leveler for the hoist, or at least a length of chain and some bolts (my way) so you have a way to angle the engine for easy removal/installation. For some reason, these are not usually included with this pricey tool. Using the chain requires a bit more trial and error, but works all the same. And as far as lifting weight goes, the tiny Terc engine is so light, I don't think they make one wimpy enough to crash under the light load. Then again, I have been wrong before (once).

9)Various pliers.

These will make removing all of the crappy hose clamps easier. Plus, there are some situations where they will be easier to use for removing some broken, yet not hand-removable bolts. That's it, you will know when they will be needed.

10)A small knife.

A small knife? Yeah. Well see here, you will run into many hoses in this task, and a small knife will allow you to get under them so you can break them free. Or you can just cut them biznitches and replace them later. Plus, if you are swapping any gasketed parts, you can use this to scrape the old gasket suff off (a putty knife helps for this as well).


Well that is it for required (I may come across more later, but this is all I can think of for now), now fro the section you all have waited for....

Tools You May Need To Make The Job Easier (at least in my experience)

Here is my top 11 list:

1)Propane torch.

You may come across som bolts that just don't want to break free. Especially in confined spaces where you can't use the hammer or pipe to break them free. Honestly, I only used this in one place. But it was invaluable in that spot. And that spot was....the exhaust to manifold bolts/studs. No matter how hard I tried, there was not enough space to put a good stank on these bolts, well actually the top-most bolt. No amount of wd40 or anything could loosen this constantly heated/cooled bolt. I guess you could run the engine till it heats up, and then break it free, but even if you would be willing to risk the overall heat/burning situation, I would think the reason you are doing this fun task would be due to an non-running engine. Anyway, if you have the same problem as I did, heating the manifold flange(?) around the stud will cause the metal to expand, making the bolt quite easy to remove. At least it was for me. Then again, who the hell am I? Oh yeah, watch out for the gas lines!

2)Some type of prying tool.

This will help you when you need to pry something (duh). I bought a short pry bar, but a tire iron or something could work. This is useful for separating gasketed surfaces from each other, as well as the tranny from the block. Just be sure not to scar any gasket surfaces, for that is a bad thing. And if you do, just remember, gasket sealer was made for a purpose.

3)Containers galore.

I went to my dollar store and bought 12 disposable bowls with lids ($3 u.s.d.) and a used a sharpie, so I could separate all of the bolts/nuts into different containers for easy replacement. Even when replacing certain bolts/nuts, it was nice to be able to go buy them and swap them into the proper containers. Nothing more frustrating than using a bolt someplace, then realizing later that it should have been the shorter (or longer) one that you now need for something else. I know it is always stated in manuals and such, but this was the first time I didn't just use a big bowl for all bolts, thinking I would remember later. Ahhh, so much easier.

4)Engine cleaner.

Use this to get all the grime off of your working area. Trying to grab a bolt with grimy greasy hands sucks. I would advise spraying the engine compartment and underside down, letting it soak (go ahead, vacuum out the interior while it works its magic), then spray it down with a high(ish) pressure spray. There are a few types of cleaner, if you are in an open area, use the cheaper, stinky type. But the citrusy type stuff works a little less better, but will not require your garage to air out for a day , just so you can breath in there.

5)Engine stand.

Not required, but will make it a bit easier to pull parts off old engine, and put on new engine (if neccessary). Not very pricey, still kinda bulky to store. That's it, just make sure you go to the store and buy some long bolts to attach the block to the stand (once again, not included with the tool). You could just use the hoist for this task, but unless you own it or are doing this all in a short period of time, this may make it a bit less pricey.

6)A friend ("....you've got a friend....").

Even though it may be possible to do this solo, you can save much time and sanity if you have a friend. Especially when it comes down to lining up the engine to the tranny during install. Not only that, if you are a drinker, it helps keep you from feeling like a loser, drinking by yourself, either after or during this process. Besides, it is so much easier to have someone hold up certain parts (i.e. manifolds, oil pan, etc.) while you bolt them back on. And the conversation can't hurt either. I used a J. Hill model 1974, and it worked quite well.

7)Spray lube.

I used wd40. Helps loosen stuck bolts. Plus, spray it on your hands before going into the house, and with a wipe of a towel it will remove almost anything from grease to paint. Also can help keep your tools in a good working condition.

8)A CD player/radio.

Takes you mind off of the drive to smash, quit, or kill.

9)A good torque wrench.

This is a MUST if you are doing any engine assembly stuff. You can kinda fake it on brackets and such (many places you couldn't use it if you wanted to), but as far as engine bolts, you really should use one of these. Now I have done many repairs without this tool, and without any problems, but if you are going for accuracy, you might as well do it all to spec. Some bolts will require certain torques to prevent warping and such, and some just to avoid breaking the bolts under your awesome strength. A good 1/2" drive will be most useful, but unless you spend big bucks, you will just have to guess on things such as the oil pan and such, as most will not measure that small of a measure. I personally prefer a click-style wrench, it is so much easier to set and read.

10)A repair manual.

Lets say you are sure that all is disconneted, but the engine still won't come away from the tranny. Hmmm. 'I guess I'll break out the manual'. 'Aww shucks, I guess I do have to remove the shield from the tranny so the converter can slip out....'. Yeah, I couldn't see the trouble this little flimsy piece would cause. Hopefully I will cover all you need to know, but, just in case....

11)Masking tape and writing element.

Keep in mind that when I purchased my Terc, the engine had most things disassembled. The only things left before pulling it out was all tranny related bolts, mounts, and odds and ends accesories (I will give a full run down in the removal process though), and that sucked. As far as electrical connections (plugs and such) we have to thank Toyota for making this almost fool proof (all clips will fit logicly only into like recepticles). But when it comes to vacuum lined, it can be a bit of a hassle. So, when you pull all vac lines off, take the time to tape and label them with where they need to go. If possible, take pictures BEFORE you remove anything so you can kinda figure it all out should some tape fall off. Trust me, as cool as a vac diagram may be, it still is not easy to follow. The only electrical wires you may want to mark is the temp sensors, they are both single wire clips, and are so close to each other you can get them switched (although if you fire the car up and your temp light comes on and your temp gauge don't work, you can just switch them).


Well, I think that is about it, if there is anything I forgot, I will update later. If the mods think this is too wordy or just too much, please let me know, I will make all following installments shorter and less personal. But it is hard to go into such a topic without a bit of depth and personal insight. Otherwise, I hope you all enjoy and find this of some use. See you in a couple of days for my next update!
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!

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takza
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Post by takza »

A good writeup. Informative AND entertaining. I like it.

Question: Was J. Hill a model in '74 or was she born in '74? B)


I use plastic baggies for the bolts...2 cheapo torque wrenches....and I've upgraded to PBBlaster, when I can afford it.... <_<
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.

Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...

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Thereminator
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Post by Thereminator »

Great Write-Up Fingers,Thanks. :)
1984 SR5~Tercel 4wd-6.Spd<br><br>
Fingers
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Location: St. Louis, MO

Post by Fingers »

Thanks for all the positive replies, pt 2 should be done this eve....
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!

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tercel4wdrules
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My tercel:: None
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by tercel4wdrules »

Thanks for sharing with us Fingers. I will probably use your guide series so that I can remove and install a 3A-C on my dad's 83.
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Guest_warbstrd
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Post by Guest_warbstrd »

O.K. Hopefully you can either find someplace to rent this, or a friend who has one. Mine cost about $225 (u.s.d.), but hopefully I will get many uses out of it (got a Camry tranny swap, and a 68 Mustang resto project as well). They are heavy as hell, a boring pain to assemble, and a bitch to store away.
how true that statment is, mine costs 120.00 usd @ pep boys and 50.00 for the leveler. its a BIG RED 2 ton and it folds up so it doesnt take up to much space. just gotta remeber to drop the arm down BEFORE folding the legs up.

great info on everything, and the one peice i didnt think of getting was the engine stand. thanks ill pick one up tomorrow.
Fingers
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Location: St. Louis, MO

Post by Fingers »

Engine Swap dreams....pt. 2

Old engine removal (the funner part).

Intro:

Me again. This section will involve the removal of the hunk-o-metal(s), that will be known from here on out as the old engine. This is the funner (is that a word?) part because a)you probably don't give a poo about the old engine; and b)you get to enjoy the learning process on the crap you will have to do when replacing the old with the new. Now, if for some lucky/unlucky reason there is no engine at all in the project car, then you can skim through this. Lucky cause it is less work. Unlucky cause you may be missing parts (I was and the engine was just kinda disconnected), and you will have no reference on where everything goes. And as much as I'd love to list all the specifics on each nut, bolt and hose, my memory has been long ravaged by age, alcohol, exhaust fumes, and 'pharmaceuticals'. But I digress, and go on....

The Meat:

First things first: Clean the engine and bay like you have to eat off it. This will make everything sooo much easier. You will be so happy you may want to make out with yourself after all is said and done. Or not.... Spray all the nuts and bolts you can get to down with a spray lube/penetrating oil. You will love yourself (AGAIN) for having done this. After all that is said and done, organize your work space. Yeah, it won't last long, but it REALLY sucks when you can't find that 14mm socket before you remove the first bolt. Now by the second bolt, at least you know that the socket wasn't a 'figure of your imagination' but is just something to make you cuss....ALOT. Anyway, lets get started, we'll take it nice and easy.

1)Remove Hood.

No, I am not talking about the one covering your head, or the one you may be living in. You know the big piece of metal that covers the engine? That is it. You will need someone to help you with this (I used my wife), unless you are some freakish, super-buff, 3 armed alien. Then do it yourself. 4 bolts, I believe 12mm. O.K., now set it off to the side. Be careful if you wish not repaint the hood. No chippy-chippy. I would suggest just putting the bolts back into the hood. Then maybe your brilliant butt won't lose them. Oh, hold on, you wouldn't lose them cause you have a bunch of storage containers you can label and set to the side. Stupid, STUPID, me. Carry on....you can paint them gold later....or whatever....

2)Disconnect Vacuum Hoses.

Nice and easy. Yeah. If you read the first part, a small knife will help you remove any stubborn hoses that will not break free from a simple twisting motion. And the tape and marking filiment will allow you to mark where they will all go when you put this puppy back together. This will be especially helpful when you encounter the hoses that go into the groups of metal lines, for they will all be of such a similar length that they will be hard to just wing it. All of my vac hoses were unhooked when I got the car, and most were easy to figure out just by the lengths and bends in them, but there were a few that I had to use the vastly unhelpful and unclear diagrams I had. But you won't have that problem, cause you will mark them all, won't you.... There really aren't many to worry about. I think only about 6, but this may vary depending on year, options, etc. And be careful on the plastic nipples, they are kinda old and tend to break easy. Anyway, you may want to do as I did and go ahead and replace all of the hoses when you reassemble everything. Vac leaks can really screw up an otherwise great running engine, and are a b*tch to trace. No need to trace, if you replace! Wow, maybe I should go work for a vac line producer! Onward all!

3)Disconnect Electrical Connections.

Toyotas rock when it comes to this part. All plugs in their cars are all pretty self explanatory. Colors, connectors, and location on the loom, makes this a no-brainer. Well maybe not. Hey, I have never found my connector to hook up my oil sensor. I swear, it was never there (all the connectors were disconnected too). So if there is some hidden warp zone where this wire comes from, let me know. Please. Anyway, after you disconnect all these clips, you can remove the loom from all of its fasteners (bendy metal rubber-coated things, not sure if all models had these, but why the hell not?), and pull the loom out of the way. Well at least after you remove wires to the starter, dist. and battery (and pull that battery as well). Look at all those mms of space you have now! ATHF.

4)Remove Fluids.

Drain all necessary engine fluids. I though this had all been done (the prev owner said so), and it can get messy if you forget. And if you have a A/T, go ahead and drain the the fluid that comes out when you pull the cooling lines. You'll be right there draining the radiator anyway. Be sure to take all fluids to a qualified recycling center. And there is a cooling drain plug on the block , it is near the starter on the botton side of the block. Could probably skip it, I did, but it was a messy, unexpected mess whan I swaped the bolt to the next block ('what the hell did this bolt hold? Oh, fluid....'). And by fluids, I mean fluids. Don't worry bout the ac (if you have it). Oh yeah, don't screw with the brakes. No need. And the power steering can be ignored (although for some reason, it was not removed, but disconnected for me). So can the anti-freeze....Awwwww, just checkin' up on your attention (remove it). "well it's a dirty job, but someone's gotta do it", yeah, sums it up.

5)Remove All Other Hoses.

This will make your job a ton easier, actually, it will make it possible. Coolant lines are the first to come to mind, and you may want to just cut the buggers, cause you are looking at longevity and dependability and are going to replace them all anyway. Actually, I replaced all but the lower rad hose cause I couldn't find one at the time. It will go once I take the radiator in to be boiled out. The hoses going to the heater core are kinda a pain to get to, but not that bad. Just be careful when removing the top one (goes into the heat regulator), the metal it fits on to is kinda flimsy and bends easy. And remember, there will still be some residual fluids, be prepared for them to be collected or cleaned up. There also is a air return hose that goes back to the cat. converter, but you can either pull it from its tube, or leave it, it will just hang there after you unbolt the bracket from the block. And don't forget the fuel lines as well. Plug em up with something. I like to pinch em with some good ole 'locks, that way very little fuel escapes, then plug em.

6)Remove Any Other Small Stuff.

O.K. I may not hit everyting, but you will get the picture. Things included in this are stuff like the throttle cable, and, uhh, stuff. Be sure to mark where it goes, if you are a dummy. You can flex it back and tuck it out of the way. So disconnect stuff.

7)Remove Bolts/Nuts (aww, nuts!).

Break out the sockets, ratchets, adapters and ententions, it's time to get nasty! I'll try to give it too you clean, but my memory is not the greatest (see above), and I can't type this up under my hood, I will give it too you all as good as possible, maybe goodder (is THAT a word?). Besides, it will be fun and you have a manual anyway, cause you followed all of my suggestions for 'things needed/things to make it easier'. You are such a smart group, give yourselves a pat on the back, or maybe, a little hug.

My list may be objective, but it won't matter.

a)Radiator and fan - get it out of the way. If you want to make it really easy, go ahead and remove the crossmember. the 'member can be left, but it is soo easy in relation to the entire task, go for it. I didn't remove mine, and didn't pull the power steering pump and pulleys, so mine is all f*cked up. My hood is a bitch to get to close (I'll replace it this weekend). Be careful not to spill any excess coolant out of the rad., the stuff is dangerous, slippery, and a pain to clean up.

b)Starter, power steering pump, and other crap - All these things need to be moved. The starter can be set aside, cleaned up, painted, whatever. The psp can be tied off to the side, kinda out of the way. Don't disconnct it unless you plan on replacing the fluid (I did). If you didn't remove the crossmember, you will find it beneficial to remove the crankshaft pulley. It will give you more forward clearance when you pull the puppy out. Heck, Imma gonna throw in the air cleaner assembly while I'm at it. I also pulled the alternator and its associated brackets, as well as the a/c compressor (tied it off to the side), but you could leave the alt. especially if you don't have a/c. But you could clean it up all purty in your downtime (if you have any), especially if you plan on using it again. Or just leave it nasty and filthy, I don't give a hoot.

c)Tranny to block bolts - Might as well start to get nasty. I believe that these are soo easy, you will start to think this is gonna be a breeze. There are 4 and you can get to them all with a ratchet, and from the top of the car. You may begin to see my top to bottom approach.

d)Top block-to-tranny-mount bolts - Well, at least the ones in the drivers side (unless you are someplace where the driver sits on the oppisite side of my drivers side, then, maybe the other side, maybe....). The other ones are a bit easier to get to from the bottom.

Now would be a good time to put the car on stands, ramps, or the lift, we're goin' down under!

e)Bolts securing the splashguard/splashguard removal - This hunk of plastic will get in your way at some point. Get her outta there.

f)Bolts securing transmission plate - trust me, I forgot one of these bolts, and it hung me up for a bit. There are 4 or 5, probably 4. And don't expect this thing to just drop off. Ohh, no. It will later, after you forgot about it and pull the engine from the tranny. Might freak you out a bit....it's alright to cry.

g)Remaining bolts from block-to-tranny-mount bolts - Alright, there are 8 total, 4 on block, 4 on tranny. The ones on the exhaust side are a bit tough to get to, but since they will have been soaked down with some type of lubricant, it won't be that bad. Oh yeah, when all the bolts are out, they will fall. And be kinda careful, one of mine cracked when it struck the ground. Sweet, lets move on....

h)Exhaust bolts - These suck. They are next to impossible to get to, and are always hard as hell to get to break free. I had to use a propane torch to get the top to break free. So, good luck, it should be fun.

And really, that is about it for the underside. If I missed anything, I'm sorry, but it's all memories to me now. Lets go back up top!

i)Motor mount bolts - Here's the deal, I took them all off. The top ones are easy to get to, but the lower ones will need to be off for easy re-installation. You will have to use a wrench for the bottom ones. They shouldn't be too hard to get off after to tap them free using a hammer. Keep em all together!

j)Little bolt holding on tiny little strut-like thingie - I have no clue if this tiny, non-absorbing thing is of any real purpose, I can't see it doing much for anything. But it is there. It's kinda crappy to get off too. You have to grab the shaft with something to unbolt it. It is in the front of the block, and I don't even remember what it attaches to. I wounder how much Toyota would charge for this thing?

And that should be it. If I missed anything, once again, I'm sorry.

8)Pull Engine.

Get the hoist, leveler/chain, and that friend of yours. I pulled mine by myself, and it was hard. You are going to want to hook it all up, raise it a bit, and pull it forward as far as you can get it. Sometimes a little jack-action on the tranny wil give you a bit more space, and will prepare you to start the tilting. Now, raise the front of the engine while continuing to pull forward. As soon as it breaks free, it's easy sailing. Oh yeah, if it is a bit tough to get to shift forward, find a good spot to pry the engine from the tranny. But be gentle. Back to the task, just raise it to a good height, roll it away (or move the car), and lower it to working level. If you have a stand, you can toss it on there as well. I reccomend taking off all sensors, some spare bolts, and anything else you may want to keep, that is, if you are not building up a long/short block with parts from the old. Maybe I will write up a longblock build-up later.

9)Store/Dispose Of Old Engine.

If you are gonna store it, clean it up, spray it down with some lube, cover it in plastic and put it in a shet of wood someplace. I even kept my old head. Why not. To get rid of whatever, just find a yard to take it, or strip it down and drop it off at a recycler. Either way, that will end your extraction process.

10)Clean Work Area/Engine Compartment.

Get it all done now, it will make the next steps much-less-not fun.


Well, that is it for this part. I know, you are all soo sad you will not have anymore to read for a bit, but that is just due to me needing sleep sometimes. Actually, there isn't really much more left. A quick rundown of installation, but that is kinda the reverse of this. I think the last one will be more of an install,/wrap-up/additional comments piece. Then maybe the long block build-up. Maybe a Q&A section, some television appearances, a few movies, maybe direct some short films later....hold on, well, uhhh, I guess I will go for now. Write stuff for you all later.
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!

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Thereminator
Top Notch Member
Posts: 353
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 2:36 pm
Location: San Diego , Ca , U.S.of A.

Post by Thereminator »

Hey,would one of the Monitors or Ice PLEASE put Fingers Article in the "Repair-Guide" section.My Idea was that we actualy get a chance to USE~IT at some point down-the-road! Thanks,and Have-a-Nice-Day! :) Alan
1984 SR5~Tercel 4wd-6.Spd<br><br>
warbstrd
Top Notch Member
Posts: 171
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 7:55 pm
Location: colonial heights va

Post by warbstrd »

good idea.. i should have read this post again after i had problems...he hit on the exact problems i had
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