Inner / Outer tie rod removal

[4doorVIP]

The passenger side tie rods are making some horrible clunking noises over bumps, and when I grab the wheel I can move it horizontally.

Are any special tools needed for replacing both the inner and outer tie rods on a 4WD Tercel?
I picked up left and right inner and outer tie rod ends, so I figure replace it all when I'm in there, then get an alignment afterwards.

I've watched a few videos on this procedure. For the outer tie rod it seems a lot of people undo the castle nut and then hit the lower control arm with a big hammer a few times, will this do the trick with our cars?

The inner tie rod I am most confused about to tell you the truth. Do we need a crows-food wrench on these? I also wondering about if we need to apply grease into the new inner tie rods?


What do you guys think of these tools?
inner tie rod tool
http://www.amazon.com/GENIUS-AT-4808-IN ... e+rod+tool

Tie rod / pitman puller
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27022-Tie-Pit ... e+rod+tool

[c_j]

These are my tie rod tools:

Inner:

• Made from grinding a notch in heavy angle iron
• Dimensions: 1.5" sides, 0.2" thick, 4.5" long (notch width unknown at the moment)
• Use an adjustable wrench on the long end for leverage.
• Not the best tool for positioning, as the long end can cause clearance issues with things nearby.
• Steer the rack back and forth to find the best clearance.
• Sometimes I have used a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod instead of this tool.

inner_tie_rod_tool.JPG

Outer - #1 Best method:

• Take 2 hammers (as heavy as practical) and place them on opposite sides of the taper that you are wishing to break free (as pictured).
• Swing both hammers to hit either side at the same time. This will make the taper pop out by slightly deforming the roundness of the hole and wedging it out.
• If you can't swing both hammers, then hold one against the taper and swing the other one.
• If you can't place them opposite each other (as pictured), then do the best you can.

outer_tie_rod_tool_2-hammer_method.jpg

Outer - #2 Worst method:

• After removing the castellated nut, clean up the threads with a wire brush, then wind the nut back on upside-down, so the bottom of the nut (flat area) is perfectly flush with the end of the tie rod.
• Hit squarely on the end with a hammer.
• If you hit too hard, or not squarely, you risk damaging the threads.

outer_tie_rod_tool_upside_down_nut_and_hammer_method.jpg

I usually try method #2 very lightly because sometimes they just want to fall out. Then I go with method #1. Then I try method #2 a bit harder. ...and repeat.

(Tie rods pictured are not T4, but Vanagon. I had to enlarge the gap slightly on this T4 tool to make it fit the Vanagon inner tie rods)

[dlb]

for outer tie rods and ball joints, i use a puller like this.



you set the silver arms of the puller on the control arm and thread the bolt down until it is putting pressure on the stud of the tie rod or ball joint. then you snug it up with a ratchet until the stud pops free. this has always worked for me, although if a stud is really stuck you have to make sure the puller is aligned perfectly so that it doesn't slide off to one side as you tighten it up. additionally, if you tighten the puller up really good and the stud doesn't pop out, just whack the control arm or whatever the stud is sitting in with a hammer. this will momentarily deform the metal and should allow the stud to pop out.

the inner tie rods are actually really easy to remove:

- undo the clamps and pull the boot outward, out of the way.
- use a hammer and flat blade punch to undo the lock washer from the inboard end of the inner tie rod (turn the steering wheel to extend or retract the end of the rack you're working on to make it easier).
- put a wrench on the flats of the steering rack. use a big crescent wrench with thin tips and put it on the inner tie rod. squeeze them together to break the inner tie rod free. unthread and remove.

installation is the same steps reversed. c_j came over when i had removed one inner tie rod and up to that point, my big crescent wrench had worked just fine. however, after he asked me if the crescent wrench actually fit on the tiny flats of the inner tie rod and had conveniently left, i found my giant crescent wrench was suddenly too big. super weird, and i squarely blame c_j for some kind of black magic. so i got my grinder and ground the tips of said crescent wrench down a bit, just until it fit perfectly on the tie rod flats. i didn't take off enough to compromise the strength of the wrench so it's as good as ever, and just more useful now.

[4doorVIP]

I have just book marked this thread, you guys are gods among men.
the inners are my big concern at this point, I like both of your suggestions.. diy tools are awesome
do you have to apply grease at all to the inner joint ?

[c_j]

do you have to apply grease at all to the inner joint ?

Tie rods and ball joints are greased at the factory. They don't usually put much grease in though. I have put them is as-is when I was in a rush or when I was not caring. I also have packed the hell out of them with grease.

I would add grease. You can't hurt it by doing so. I just installed new steering rack boots and I also wound the steering rack to each side and cleaned and lightly greased it as well.

On the type, I would think EP-2 would be the recommended type (e.g. Mobil UNIREX EP-2 or similar). I got myself some RedLine CV-2 (synthetic) not too long ago and have been slathering everything with that. It is expensive though and smelllly.

*side note: I made the tool above because none of my wrenches would fit in the narrow slot for the inner tie rod. I would probably take the dlb shortcut unless I really prized my adjustable wrench.

[Petros]

all good advise above. sometimes the inner one can be a real bear to get off, for some reason they get stuck good. the usual pentrating oil usually does not go deep enough. You need a bigger wrench. A correct size open end wrench with ends thin enough to get onto the flats would be perfect but most newer open ends are much too wide. I happen to have a very ancient gas valve open end wrench in inches but close enough to work, fit on the flats and than I put some kind of cheater extender on it and pull real hard. correct fit and leverage is the key. I have not found a pipe wrench wants to grab the inner tie rod end very good because it is hardened steel. If it is going to get replaced, no harm is done if you have to give it some really hard whacks, just becareful not do damage the steering rack end of it.

good luck.

[keith]

The OEM small pitman arm puller you pictured from amazon is also available at AutoZone and most other car parts stores and is perfect for the outer tie rods. I use mine all the time for that purpose. Can't remember ever using it on a pitman arm though.

As for the inner tie rod ends, which Toyota call rack ends BTW, I use one regular wrench on the socket side, 17mm if I recall correctly. You have to get the wings on the claw washer bent up straight before you do anything else or you will have a very hard time later. For the ball side of the joint, I used an old tappet wrench. I don't know if you can find them anymore, mine is a Craftsman. You really want a high quality wrench for this, a cheap tappet wrench will only round off the flats on the ball side as well as open up and become useless.

A tappet wrench is a long thin open end wrench with 1/2" x9/16" ends. 9/16" is almost identical to 14mm and they can be used interchangeably. You turn the steering wheel all the way to the stop for the side you are working on to get at the ball end of that joint. BTW, once you have a tappet wrench like mine, you would be surprised at how handy it is. It works really great on the tensioner for changing serpentine belts on small FWD cars where there is no room to work.

BTW, I have heard of people (someone here I think did this) taking a good quality 14 mm wrench and grinding the flats of the open end side to make them thinner. If you do that, go slow. If you overheat the metal while grinding, it could lose its temper and not be any good.

[lannvouivre]

Well, I'm going to give that special puller tool a try. I think I have one in the garage. This is the first time I have ever struggled with a tie rod end.

[ARCHINSTL]

Skip down to the photos on my method: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3171&hilit=tie+rod
I, too, used the rental puller Petros and dlb mentioned on ball joints and outer rods.
Tom M.

[lannvouivre]

Looks like the cheap Taiwan-made puller wasn't up to it. The pushing stud in the puller got bent diagonally so I need to go buy a real puller and throw the old one in scrap.

[lannvouivre]

all good advise above. sometimes the inner one can be a real bear to get off, for some reason they get stuck good. the usual pentrating oil usually does not go deep enough. You need a bigger wrench. A correct size open end wrench with ends thin enough to get onto the flats would be perfect but most newer open ends are much too wide. I happen to have a very ancient gas valve open end wrench in inches but close enough to work, fit on the flats and than I put some kind of cheater extender on it and pull real hard. correct fit and leverage is the key. I have not found a pipe wrench wants to grab the inner tie rod end very good because it is hardened steel. If it is going to get replaced, no harm is done if you have to give it some really hard whacks, just becareful not do damage the steering rack end of it.

good luck.

I can't dislodge the inner tie rods. The rack seems to be bad (it turns in the housing) but I want to learn how to remove the inners without damaging it because good practices. Is it ok to let the rack hold steady, or do I need to use something to hold the rack stationary and take the brunt of the twisting force I'm having to put on the inner? I'm having to twist REALLY hard and thus far the inners won't budge.

[dlb]

there are flats on the rack for putting a wrench on it. put one big wrench on those flats, and another big wrench with skinny jaws on the inner tie rod. position the handles so you can fit both your hands around both handles and squeeze the hell out of them. the inner tie rod will eventually bust loose.

do not attempt to unthread the inner tie rod without putting a wrench on the rack. you'll wreck the rack.

[Petros]

DLB is correct, it is good practice to hold the end of the rack stable with a wrench on it. I have just levered against the rack, but it was not stuck that bad. Make sure the bent washer is completely clear of the tie rod end, and heat the outer (female) part with a torch to make it enlarge slightly, and than have at it. If you have an assistant tap on it with a ball peen hammer while you are levering on the wrenches, the shocks might also help break it loose.

good luck.

[lannvouivre]

The claw washers are absent on both the current/old parts and the replacement ones. I will have to find a torch to borrow, I guess. I don't personally own one because I haven't needed one until recently.

[ARCHINSTL]

Did you look at the photos in my link above?
Tom M.