Actually WD-40 is better to spray on ignition wires than the silicon spray IF you are concerned with moisture. The WD-40 will displace the moisture and not damage any of the plastic or rubber components.
Yes, silicone is better. However, it does not displace moisture and the solvent used in the actual spray can melt plastic (depends on the brand). Canadian Tire brand silicon spray is not plastic friendly.
AAA (BCAA and OAA (OML); Vancouver and Toronto) use WD-40 in wet ignition situations.
Car starts sometimes...
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Guest_Teddy
- Newbie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:20 am
Well. They BOTH displace moisture, I think the key point that you mentioned here is "depends on the brand". I have found this to be true.
Some "spray silicones" contain OTHER lubes, and/or use a corrosive vehicle as a propellant. I have, in fact, seen a "spray silicone" melt plastic, just like you stated.
I have never had a problem with Mac's Silicone Spray, from Napa... the 100% Silicone from CRC chemicals is good, too (make sure it's not the HYBRID Silicone Spray, folks...) As the new guy, I am disinterested in starting/causing a holy "Lube War", so, I will conclude the subject.
Yes, I will carefully document the build of my 7A-C. I have discarded the 4A-C and 4AF-E motor swaps because they just don't net enough power gains over the 3A-C to justify the swap (for me), I discarded the 4AG-E because the motor is a little peakier than I would like in my offroadmobile, and the 7AF-E because the torque might blow up my driveline (not to mention the underhood complexities of the MegaSquirt fuel injection if I don't use the stock injection, intake and exhaust routing, etc).
So, I have settled on the 7A-C, with big valves for good midrange performance (with a minor penalty in the low end, due to lower intake charge velocities).
My current 3A-C has about 220,000 miles on it, has leaking valves, low compression, lots of smoke, and starts every day
I will be re-using the Weber carb I have on the current motor, and making a slightly bigger intake plenum for the runners. I will be having the headers custom made by a shop in Auburn, Washington that specializes in that.
By the way, for any of you who are interested in Tercel hotrodding, the 3A-S motors from Japan (JDM) have a MUCH better exhaust manifold... the twin outlet downpipe setup breathes WAY BETTER than the U.S. single outlet manifold. They can be purchased from Japanese salvage yards for almost nothing... the shipping will certainly cost more than the manifold. Those engines ALSO came with a cool looking dual carb setup (called Toyota Super Twin Power), that does NOT make any more power than a single Weber does. So, don't bother.
We have dynoed the 3A-S at 80 horsepower, and the 3A-C at 63... so.
For the 7A-C motor, I have already determined that all of the oil ports and galleys line up, and the accessories WILL bolt up (but, some of them in slightly different locations or elevations).
I will photodocument the swap process, and note part numbers/sizes and caveats for the clutch/flywheel/tranny, engine pulleys, mounts and etc.
It looks like either the Porsche 924 or the 944 timing belt is the way to go, to allow the taller 7A block to spin the cam in the 'C' type head. I will document this, as well. Timing SHOULD be cake, since as long as the number of teeth on the belt are increased by an eveb multilple, crank to cam interface/spin rates stay constant.
I will be overboring the 7A by 30 over, and using Total Seal rings... decking the head, I expect about 10.5:1 compression, which will mandate some hefty timing retard, to avoid ping. I plan on having a local tranny shop (Sea-Tac Transmission) rebuild the 6 speed tranny for me, and I will install new tranny mount and shift bushings when I do the swap.
Lastly, I will be using the stock radiator footprint, but having one custom built by a local radiator shop that is twice as deep (more cores, aluminum).
- Teddy
Seattle, Washington
Some "spray silicones" contain OTHER lubes, and/or use a corrosive vehicle as a propellant. I have, in fact, seen a "spray silicone" melt plastic, just like you stated.
I have never had a problem with Mac's Silicone Spray, from Napa... the 100% Silicone from CRC chemicals is good, too (make sure it's not the HYBRID Silicone Spray, folks...) As the new guy, I am disinterested in starting/causing a holy "Lube War", so, I will conclude the subject.
Yes, I will carefully document the build of my 7A-C. I have discarded the 4A-C and 4AF-E motor swaps because they just don't net enough power gains over the 3A-C to justify the swap (for me), I discarded the 4AG-E because the motor is a little peakier than I would like in my offroadmobile, and the 7AF-E because the torque might blow up my driveline (not to mention the underhood complexities of the MegaSquirt fuel injection if I don't use the stock injection, intake and exhaust routing, etc).
So, I have settled on the 7A-C, with big valves for good midrange performance (with a minor penalty in the low end, due to lower intake charge velocities).
My current 3A-C has about 220,000 miles on it, has leaking valves, low compression, lots of smoke, and starts every day
I will be re-using the Weber carb I have on the current motor, and making a slightly bigger intake plenum for the runners. I will be having the headers custom made by a shop in Auburn, Washington that specializes in that.
By the way, for any of you who are interested in Tercel hotrodding, the 3A-S motors from Japan (JDM) have a MUCH better exhaust manifold... the twin outlet downpipe setup breathes WAY BETTER than the U.S. single outlet manifold. They can be purchased from Japanese salvage yards for almost nothing... the shipping will certainly cost more than the manifold. Those engines ALSO came with a cool looking dual carb setup (called Toyota Super Twin Power), that does NOT make any more power than a single Weber does. So, don't bother.
We have dynoed the 3A-S at 80 horsepower, and the 3A-C at 63... so.
For the 7A-C motor, I have already determined that all of the oil ports and galleys line up, and the accessories WILL bolt up (but, some of them in slightly different locations or elevations).
I will photodocument the swap process, and note part numbers/sizes and caveats for the clutch/flywheel/tranny, engine pulleys, mounts and etc.
It looks like either the Porsche 924 or the 944 timing belt is the way to go, to allow the taller 7A block to spin the cam in the 'C' type head. I will document this, as well. Timing SHOULD be cake, since as long as the number of teeth on the belt are increased by an eveb multilple, crank to cam interface/spin rates stay constant.
I will be overboring the 7A by 30 over, and using Total Seal rings... decking the head, I expect about 10.5:1 compression, which will mandate some hefty timing retard, to avoid ping. I plan on having a local tranny shop (Sea-Tac Transmission) rebuild the 6 speed tranny for me, and I will install new tranny mount and shift bushings when I do the swap.
Lastly, I will be using the stock radiator footprint, but having one custom built by a local radiator shop that is twice as deep (more cores, aluminum).
- Teddy
Seattle, Washington
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GTSSportCoupe
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
- Location: Victoria BC, Canada
I think the post above is the best one I've ever read on this board 
. Nice work man! I look forward to hearing your results and seeing some pictures. It's good to have you on this forum.
. Nice work man! I look forward to hearing your results and seeing some pictures. It's good to have you on this forum.Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
Just thought I would note the latest with my car!
Anyway, my stepdad is working on it for me, and has gotten the car to start again by removing, then plugging back in, the fuse for the engine (part of that whole fuse box under the hood). We thought that narrowed down the problem.
However, there was one time where this didnt work for him and he was stranded at an auto parts store (of course), but managed to hotwire it somehow!
So, it seems like it is possibly a problem in the circuit going from the fuse to the engine. Anyone else have a problem with this before? I'm not sure if that means I need a new circuitry panel (or would this be the transistor that Teddy was talking about?), he's going to keep working on it.
He is going to put new spark plugs in as well. I'll see about checking the ignition module or coil.
Hope to have my car running soon! Thanks for all the tips so far, and I'll keep you posted!
Arlene
Anyway, my stepdad is working on it for me, and has gotten the car to start again by removing, then plugging back in, the fuse for the engine (part of that whole fuse box under the hood). We thought that narrowed down the problem.
However, there was one time where this didnt work for him and he was stranded at an auto parts store (of course), but managed to hotwire it somehow!
So, it seems like it is possibly a problem in the circuit going from the fuse to the engine. Anyone else have a problem with this before? I'm not sure if that means I need a new circuitry panel (or would this be the transistor that Teddy was talking about?), he's going to keep working on it.
He is going to put new spark plugs in as well. I'll see about checking the ignition module or coil.
Hope to have my car running soon! Thanks for all the tips so far, and I'll keep you posted!
Arlene
Sounds like a faulty relay or connx...maybe if the one controlling the engine is identical to another...you could switch them and test that idea.ArleneK wrote: Anyway, my stepdad is working on it for me, and has gotten the car to start again by removing, then plugging back in, the fuse for the engine (part of that whole fuse box under the hood). We thought that narrowed down the problem.
However, there was one time where this didnt work for him and he was stranded at an auto parts store (of course), but managed to hotwire it somehow!
So, it seems like it is possibly a problem in the circuit going from the fuse to the engine.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...