CV Joints-Axles
How difficult is it to install new front cv joints? I'm getting the rattling noise when accelerating in turns and assume it is about time to replace them. Does anyone have instructions from a shop manual or otherwise that they could post or e-mail to me? And how long does the replacement process take? Sorry for all of the questions but you guys are extremely helpful with all of your knowledge and I don't want to leave any stones unturned. Thanks.
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GTSSportCoupe
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
- Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Hi tripp, I've moved this topic to the Repair Questions area. You will get more feed back here.
I have actually recently done the front drive axles on my tercel 4wd, so can help you out. Many others who frequent this site have also done their front drive axles.
First off, you don't rebuild/replace the cv joints yourself. What you do is buy re-manufactured front axles for the tercel 4wd. Then you just replace the entire axle, and return the core (your old axle) for refund. You can also buy brand new front axles from Toyota, but this is very expensive and generally not worth it unless you have lots of money kicking around.
I do have a Toyota Factory Repair Manual for the 86 tercels (covers all models including the 4wd). I am in the process (slowly) of scanning the entire thing in so we can put it up on the website for people like yourself to download. I could speed up my scanning process, and just scan in the section you need. You could then download it and use it to do the job.
I think you could probably do the job in about 1.5 hours max per side the first time round (especially if you have any mechanical experience). After doing it the first time, you could probably do it again in about 30min per side.
You will need the following tools: Metric socket set, 1/2 rachet, 3-4' breaker bar/ pry bar (ie. heavy duty metal pipe that fits on the end of your 1/2" rachet), 0-120ft/lb torque wrench, Large Strong flat head screw driver, needle nose pliers, rubber mallet, ball joint seperator recommended, hydraulic jack, 2 jack stands.
You will need the following parts/materials: re-manufactured front axles, general purpose grease, new caughter (spelling??) pins, new transmission oil if you want to change it.
To do the job basically what you do is:
(Note, this is a supplement only, don't work entirely just by my instructions. No matter what procedure you follow, read through it all before beginning the job to make sure you understand what you are doing.)
1. Park your car in a good location to work on it (eg. a shop or a flat dry section of your driveway). Put the ebrake on and put blocks in front and behind your rear tires for extra measure.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels. Remove the little plastic cover in the centre of the rim. Remove the caughter (spl??) pin from the end of the axle. Remove the the nut lock. Loosen the large nut that is screwed onto the end of the axle, but leave it on. You will probably need a 1/2" drive ratchet with a breaker bar on it. The nut is torqued to around 115ft/lbs.
3. Jack up the front of your car quite a bit; enough to give you room to work under it. Also, enough to allow your transmission/diff oil to sit in the back of the transmission and thus not drain out the diff axle holes when you pull the axles out later. (You could also drain the oil out of your trans/diff if it needs to be changed, then you don't have to worry about it). Place jack stands in appropriate locations, and lower the front of the car onto the jack stands so that they hold at least some of the weight; you can use your jack to hold some weight too (if you are using a decent quality hydraulic type).
4. Remove your front wheels. Loosen and remove the nuts on the two bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle (but leave the bolts in for now). Note and mark the location of the camber adjustment lobe (it should be rusted into place, but if it moves it will screw up your camber).
5. Remove the caughter pin above the ball joint that connects the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Remove the nut in the same location. Seperate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Note, you may need a small ball joint seperator to do this. Or you can bang on it with your hammer; just don't damage it.
6. Use a long pry bar (3-4') to push down on the steering knuckle (put one end under the body of the car). While pressing down, have someone remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. (The bolts should slide out without much difficulty if the right pressure is applied on the pry bar). Seperate the steering knuckle from the strut.
7. Remove the nut from the end of the axle. Pivot the now free steering knuckle to one side and pull the front axle out of it. It should not be rusted in, and should slide out fairly easy.
8. Crawl under the car with a large flat head screw driver or pry bar with a flat end. Gently pry between the differential housing and the edge of the front axle until the axle disengages from the internals of the differential. It should then easily slide out.
9. You have now removed your front axle. Compare it to the re-manufactured one you bought to make sure it looks the same.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure you put some grease on the oil seal where the axle enters the diff housing. Use a rubber mallet and a large beat up flat head screw driver to tap the new axle into the diff housing. It should sort of click into postion inside, and then be locked into place. Make sure you torque all bolts to the factory recommendations when putting everything back together. Also, use new caughter pins.
11. While you are working on the front of your car, you can: Check the thickness of your front brake pads, check the condition of the wheel bearing oil seals, check the condition of the wheel bearings, check for loose tie-rod ends, check the condition of the ball joints, check the condition of your power steering rack bellows, and check your tires for uneven wear.
Again, this is just a rough guide off the top of my head while I sit here at work avoiding what I should be doing for a few minutes
. The Factory Repair manual has good diagrams as well as an easy to follow step by step procedure. It also has all the torque specs etc. I recommend using it.
Please be forwarned that many of us on this forum have had bad luck with remanufactured front axles. So make sure you have a good warranty on the ones you buy. You may have to remove them and get new ones on warranty. Do a search on this forum and you will find another post about this.
Feel free to ask me any questions.
Cheers,
Nick
I have actually recently done the front drive axles on my tercel 4wd, so can help you out. Many others who frequent this site have also done their front drive axles.
First off, you don't rebuild/replace the cv joints yourself. What you do is buy re-manufactured front axles for the tercel 4wd. Then you just replace the entire axle, and return the core (your old axle) for refund. You can also buy brand new front axles from Toyota, but this is very expensive and generally not worth it unless you have lots of money kicking around.
I do have a Toyota Factory Repair Manual for the 86 tercels (covers all models including the 4wd). I am in the process (slowly) of scanning the entire thing in so we can put it up on the website for people like yourself to download. I could speed up my scanning process, and just scan in the section you need. You could then download it and use it to do the job.
I think you could probably do the job in about 1.5 hours max per side the first time round (especially if you have any mechanical experience). After doing it the first time, you could probably do it again in about 30min per side.
You will need the following tools: Metric socket set, 1/2 rachet, 3-4' breaker bar/ pry bar (ie. heavy duty metal pipe that fits on the end of your 1/2" rachet), 0-120ft/lb torque wrench, Large Strong flat head screw driver, needle nose pliers, rubber mallet, ball joint seperator recommended, hydraulic jack, 2 jack stands.
You will need the following parts/materials: re-manufactured front axles, general purpose grease, new caughter (spelling??) pins, new transmission oil if you want to change it.
To do the job basically what you do is:
(Note, this is a supplement only, don't work entirely just by my instructions. No matter what procedure you follow, read through it all before beginning the job to make sure you understand what you are doing.)
1. Park your car in a good location to work on it (eg. a shop or a flat dry section of your driveway). Put the ebrake on and put blocks in front and behind your rear tires for extra measure.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels. Remove the little plastic cover in the centre of the rim. Remove the caughter (spl??) pin from the end of the axle. Remove the the nut lock. Loosen the large nut that is screwed onto the end of the axle, but leave it on. You will probably need a 1/2" drive ratchet with a breaker bar on it. The nut is torqued to around 115ft/lbs.
3. Jack up the front of your car quite a bit; enough to give you room to work under it. Also, enough to allow your transmission/diff oil to sit in the back of the transmission and thus not drain out the diff axle holes when you pull the axles out later. (You could also drain the oil out of your trans/diff if it needs to be changed, then you don't have to worry about it). Place jack stands in appropriate locations, and lower the front of the car onto the jack stands so that they hold at least some of the weight; you can use your jack to hold some weight too (if you are using a decent quality hydraulic type).
4. Remove your front wheels. Loosen and remove the nuts on the two bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle (but leave the bolts in for now). Note and mark the location of the camber adjustment lobe (it should be rusted into place, but if it moves it will screw up your camber).
5. Remove the caughter pin above the ball joint that connects the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Remove the nut in the same location. Seperate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Note, you may need a small ball joint seperator to do this. Or you can bang on it with your hammer; just don't damage it.
6. Use a long pry bar (3-4') to push down on the steering knuckle (put one end under the body of the car). While pressing down, have someone remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. (The bolts should slide out without much difficulty if the right pressure is applied on the pry bar). Seperate the steering knuckle from the strut.
7. Remove the nut from the end of the axle. Pivot the now free steering knuckle to one side and pull the front axle out of it. It should not be rusted in, and should slide out fairly easy.
8. Crawl under the car with a large flat head screw driver or pry bar with a flat end. Gently pry between the differential housing and the edge of the front axle until the axle disengages from the internals of the differential. It should then easily slide out.
9. You have now removed your front axle. Compare it to the re-manufactured one you bought to make sure it looks the same.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure you put some grease on the oil seal where the axle enters the diff housing. Use a rubber mallet and a large beat up flat head screw driver to tap the new axle into the diff housing. It should sort of click into postion inside, and then be locked into place. Make sure you torque all bolts to the factory recommendations when putting everything back together. Also, use new caughter pins.
11. While you are working on the front of your car, you can: Check the thickness of your front brake pads, check the condition of the wheel bearing oil seals, check the condition of the wheel bearings, check for loose tie-rod ends, check the condition of the ball joints, check the condition of your power steering rack bellows, and check your tires for uneven wear.
Again, this is just a rough guide off the top of my head while I sit here at work avoiding what I should be doing for a few minutes
. The Factory Repair manual has good diagrams as well as an easy to follow step by step procedure. It also has all the torque specs etc. I recommend using it.Please be forwarned that many of us on this forum have had bad luck with remanufactured front axles. So make sure you have a good warranty on the ones you buy. You may have to remove them and get new ones on warranty. Do a search on this forum and you will find another post about this.
Feel free to ask me any questions.
Cheers,
Nick
Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
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Thereminator
- Top Notch Member
- Posts: 353
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 2:36 pm
- Location: San Diego , Ca , U.S.of A.
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GTSSportCoupe
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
- Location: Victoria BC, Canada
No prob.Good writeup!
But I have a few points to make on doing the axles:
1) ??????????? I got by without loosening the 2 bolts that hold the strut. Just removed the tie-rod end & axle nut. ?????????????????
CORRECTION: You DO need to remove 2 bolts...they are the ones holding the ball joint.....NOT the 2 holding the strut tube......and the axle nut. Tie-rod is left alone....it is a PITA.
2) I'd recommend replacing the seal in the trans when replacing an axle...they get very brittle by the time an OEM axle goes bad....it would be a drag to have to go back and put one in.
3) Be real careful with the the new boots...they are tough, but could be damaged. Also be careful with the old seal at the wheel bearing.
4) Have read that it is best NOT to let an axle hang of its own weight.
----------------
I'd try an A1Cardone axle...never any guarantees though.
But I have a few points to make on doing the axles:
1) ??????????? I got by without loosening the 2 bolts that hold the strut. Just removed the tie-rod end & axle nut. ?????????????????
CORRECTION: You DO need to remove 2 bolts...they are the ones holding the ball joint.....NOT the 2 holding the strut tube......and the axle nut. Tie-rod is left alone....it is a PITA.
2) I'd recommend replacing the seal in the trans when replacing an axle...they get very brittle by the time an OEM axle goes bad....it would be a drag to have to go back and put one in.
3) Be real careful with the the new boots...they are tough, but could be damaged. Also be careful with the old seal at the wheel bearing.
4) Have read that it is best NOT to let an axle hang of its own weight.
----------------
I'd try an A1Cardone axle...never any guarantees though.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
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arbskynxnex
- Top Notch Member
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 5:18 pm
I found for removing the large nut on the axle, that we needed to step on the brakes otherwise the whole car moved, the company that worked on my car last really overtightened it.GTSSportCoupe wrote:2. Loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels. Remove the little plastic cover in the centre of the rim. Remove the caughter (spl??) pin from the end of the axle. Remove the the nut lock. Loosen the large nut that is screwed onto the end of the axle, but leave it on. You will probably need a 1/2" drive ratchet with a breaker bar on it. The nut is torqued to around 115ft/lbs.
If it has been a long time (or never) since some parts have been replaced ie; the ball joint, it will take longer. We broke three sets of ball joint pullers trying to seperate it as required by Chilton's
. It is worth all the time though, it sounded beautiful when we finished.Pandas: Eats, shoots and leaves.
Another tip for doing this task:
When you are removing the tie rod end, if you don't have a separator, before you bang on the thread area with a hammer, put the bolt back on upside down and tighten it til the thread are flush with the the nut. that way, you will not damage the bolt or threaded area nearly as much. After it breaks free, go ahead and slightly tighten and loosen the bolt several times to help 'correct' any damage you may have done. And spray the hell out of it with lube so it goes back together without the ball joint turning.
Thats it.
When you are removing the tie rod end, if you don't have a separator, before you bang on the thread area with a hammer, put the bolt back on upside down and tighten it til the thread are flush with the the nut. that way, you will not damage the bolt or threaded area nearly as much. After it breaks free, go ahead and slightly tighten and loosen the bolt several times to help 'correct' any damage you may have done. And spray the hell out of it with lube so it goes back together without the ball joint turning.
Thats it.
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!
Helliphino.com
Helliphino.com
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Thereminator
- Top Notch Member
- Posts: 353
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 2:36 pm
- Location: San Diego , Ca , U.S.of A.
It struck me that this is a good way to do Write~ups.Have someone do a somewhat formal writeup with 1.Tools,2.Parts and 3.Notes Headings,Then the Procedure.Then we run~it thru the Repair questions area where members can add remarks,finetunning the process.Then someone combines the info. and stores~it in the Repair Man. Section. When you add all the info~up on Drive Axle Replacement,Where Else would you get such a compleat,practical Guide? Not from one source,be it book or individual. 
1984 SR5~Tercel 4wd-6.Spd<br><br>
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GTSSportCoupe
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
- Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Great points guys! When I get some time, I'll go back through the procedure and update it. I'll also finish up the 're-assembly' part properly and add in torque specs etc.
Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
WARNING:
After around 21K miles I found that the new transaxle oil seal (installed with a rebuilt axle) has started leaking.
Assuming that I installed it right...my guess is that the sandblasted area that the seal rides on has worn it down to the point that it leaks.
WHY they can't manage to put some tape on this area before they sandblast is a good question.....
Maybe if they try to sell you a rebuilt axle with this area sandblasted....give it back?
----
Seems I didn't install it right...details below.....
After around 21K miles I found that the new transaxle oil seal (installed with a rebuilt axle) has started leaking.
Assuming that I installed it right...my guess is that the sandblasted area that the seal rides on has worn it down to the point that it leaks.
WHY they can't manage to put some tape on this area before they sandblast is a good question.....
Maybe if they try to sell you a rebuilt axle with this area sandblasted....give it back?
----
Seems I didn't install it right...details below.....
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Recent online price quotes for front axles and diff seals....
RockAuto A1Cardone 605002 $48.79 $15 core $62.79
no diff seals
AdvanceAP 3 brands including Cardone $70 to $94 plus core
Seal (2) BCA Bearings 223240 $????
2 Required; (Z52f/Z54F; 6 Speed)
2 Year Limited Warranty
Carparts.com A1 CARDONE 60-5002 76.95 plus core
<a href='http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com/' target='_blank'>http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com/</a>
OEM diff axle seals 6 speed trans - $5.99 each
pics of Cardone left side axle vs same axle from a parts car....
trans end......second flat up is where the seal rides...surface is rough...splines are worn down .012" in diameter vs old axle...sheetmetal shield for the seal needs to be moved...
wheel end...seal rides on flat...rough...sheetmetal guard to move...threads worn down...
...full length.....
How I did the axle(s)....new axle on left side and (2) new diff seals.....
* good idea to hit all bolts etc with penetrant and oil several days before starting this job.
* with the wheels on the ground...loosen the wheel lugs and the axle nuts.... axle nut needs a 30 mm socket.
* jack car up at center of front xmember and add (2) stands on the frame behind the front wheels.
* remove wheels and axle nuts.
* doing one wheel at a time...remove the (2) large bolts holding the caliper and hang it up on the spring using coat hanger wire.
* remove the (2) bolts holding the ball joint to the hub.
* loosen but don't remove the (2) bolts at the swaybar bracket on the frame around 3/8"....but only on the side you are working on.
* did not remove the stiffener bracket on the left side.
* wrap a rag around the outboard CV boot if you expect to reuse the axle.
* using a 4 foot long 2X4...pry UP on the end of this with the other end between the swaybar and tierod...separating the balljoint from the hub.
* hub can now be swung out...pulling the axle spline from the hub...might need to collapse the axle in towards the diff. Allow the axle end to rest on the swaybar.
* now ready to pull axle from the diff...this can be easy or it can be hard...depending on the strength of the clip on the end of the axle. An axle that has been in use a long time should be easy.
* I use one or two large prybars to pry against the diff case (or stiffner bracket) till it pops out....remove the axle...supporting it in the middle. You will need to have a catch pan for any oil that runs out.
* I use a med sized screwdriver to pry the seal out of the diff...don't want to scratch the alum housing.
* after cleaning up the bore where the seal fits...I put plenty of grease inside and outside the seal and used a short length of PCV pipe the same OD as the seal to drive it into place. It is important to both have the seal in there as far as recommended and to also have it in there evenly. I used a dial caliper to measure around the outside of the seal a four places to be sure it was in about 1/3".
* to install the new or the same axle...make sure the ends are clean and have the dust deflectors installed...you will likely have to pry these of the old axle...and might have to decrease the diameter in the center to make them "hold" on the axle.
* be sure the spring clip is on the axles inner end.
* I smeared grease on both ends...espec where the seals ride.
* getting a new axle into the diff can be a bear...with this Cardone axle...seems the splines were malformed some from the "tumbling" and they were difficult to get in on both ends.
* I used a dull ended prybar to hammer the end in...postioning it on the last flange on the inner end of the axle..
* on the diff end...if the axle is in correctly...you should be able to feel some "slop" as you move the inner end of the axle back and forth (in and out of the diff)...this means the spring clip is in the groove. Distance between the diff housing and axle flange should be around 1/2"?
* always rest the outer end of the axle on the swaybar, etc....don't let it hang.
* once the axle is in the diff...you can use the 2X4 to pry the hub down...pull the hub out...get the spline into the hub....and seat the balljoint...not too easy by yourself...but can be done.
* the rest of the job is a matter of reinstalling all bolts/nuts and tightening everything to specs.
Notes on this job: found that the right side seal that had started to leak after 21K miles...was leaking due to the fact that I didn't put it in right...it was in only about 1/2 ways on one side and maybe 2/3s on the other...I'm lucky it didn't just pop out...the surface that the seal rides on was polished pretty smooth....seal was in good condition.
After driving the car 50 miles or so...looks like I've found a KEEPER...no vibration and no clicking with the steering turned all the way to one side.
The right axle...after 21K miles...still clicks when turned fully...but this has gotten much less over time...otherwise OK.
RockAuto A1Cardone 605002 $48.79 $15 core $62.79
no diff seals
AdvanceAP 3 brands including Cardone $70 to $94 plus core
Seal (2) BCA Bearings 223240 $????
2 Required; (Z52f/Z54F; 6 Speed)
2 Year Limited Warranty
Carparts.com A1 CARDONE 60-5002 76.95 plus core
<a href='http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com/' target='_blank'>http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com/</a>
OEM diff axle seals 6 speed trans - $5.99 each
pics of Cardone left side axle vs same axle from a parts car....
trans end......second flat up is where the seal rides...surface is rough...splines are worn down .012" in diameter vs old axle...sheetmetal shield for the seal needs to be moved...
wheel end...seal rides on flat...rough...sheetmetal guard to move...threads worn down...
...full length.....
How I did the axle(s)....new axle on left side and (2) new diff seals.....
* good idea to hit all bolts etc with penetrant and oil several days before starting this job.
* with the wheels on the ground...loosen the wheel lugs and the axle nuts.... axle nut needs a 30 mm socket.
* jack car up at center of front xmember and add (2) stands on the frame behind the front wheels.
* remove wheels and axle nuts.
* doing one wheel at a time...remove the (2) large bolts holding the caliper and hang it up on the spring using coat hanger wire.
* remove the (2) bolts holding the ball joint to the hub.
* loosen but don't remove the (2) bolts at the swaybar bracket on the frame around 3/8"....but only on the side you are working on.
* did not remove the stiffener bracket on the left side.
* wrap a rag around the outboard CV boot if you expect to reuse the axle.
* using a 4 foot long 2X4...pry UP on the end of this with the other end between the swaybar and tierod...separating the balljoint from the hub.
* hub can now be swung out...pulling the axle spline from the hub...might need to collapse the axle in towards the diff. Allow the axle end to rest on the swaybar.
* now ready to pull axle from the diff...this can be easy or it can be hard...depending on the strength of the clip on the end of the axle. An axle that has been in use a long time should be easy.
* I use one or two large prybars to pry against the diff case (or stiffner bracket) till it pops out....remove the axle...supporting it in the middle. You will need to have a catch pan for any oil that runs out.
* I use a med sized screwdriver to pry the seal out of the diff...don't want to scratch the alum housing.
* after cleaning up the bore where the seal fits...I put plenty of grease inside and outside the seal and used a short length of PCV pipe the same OD as the seal to drive it into place. It is important to both have the seal in there as far as recommended and to also have it in there evenly. I used a dial caliper to measure around the outside of the seal a four places to be sure it was in about 1/3".
* to install the new or the same axle...make sure the ends are clean and have the dust deflectors installed...you will likely have to pry these of the old axle...and might have to decrease the diameter in the center to make them "hold" on the axle.
* be sure the spring clip is on the axles inner end.
* I smeared grease on both ends...espec where the seals ride.
* getting a new axle into the diff can be a bear...with this Cardone axle...seems the splines were malformed some from the "tumbling" and they were difficult to get in on both ends.
* I used a dull ended prybar to hammer the end in...postioning it on the last flange on the inner end of the axle..
* on the diff end...if the axle is in correctly...you should be able to feel some "slop" as you move the inner end of the axle back and forth (in and out of the diff)...this means the spring clip is in the groove. Distance between the diff housing and axle flange should be around 1/2"?
* always rest the outer end of the axle on the swaybar, etc....don't let it hang.
* once the axle is in the diff...you can use the 2X4 to pry the hub down...pull the hub out...get the spline into the hub....and seat the balljoint...not too easy by yourself...but can be done.
* the rest of the job is a matter of reinstalling all bolts/nuts and tightening everything to specs.
Notes on this job: found that the right side seal that had started to leak after 21K miles...was leaking due to the fact that I didn't put it in right...it was in only about 1/2 ways on one side and maybe 2/3s on the other...I'm lucky it didn't just pop out...the surface that the seal rides on was polished pretty smooth....seal was in good condition.
After driving the car 50 miles or so...looks like I've found a KEEPER...no vibration and no clicking with the steering turned all the way to one side.
The right axle...after 21K miles...still clicks when turned fully...but this has gotten much less over time...otherwise OK.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
There are NO junker T4WDs in this area that I can find...the reason I took all the parts I could off the '84 I found....pretty sure I'll need something I didn't take off though.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
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Rickety Rhino1
- Newbie
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:27 am
Hi,
Has anyone replaced just a boot on the CV, not the whole CV?
My outer L side CV boot is ripped; I think it happened recently, and believe the axle is still OK. I'm not hearing any noises on sharp turns. From the service manual it appears you have to take the axle apart in order to get new boots on - is this difficult? Does anyone recommend the split-boot type where you don't even have to remove the axle, just put the new split boot on and seal the split with some sealant, like vulcanizing glue on a bike inner tube?
Thanks for any info!
Has anyone replaced just a boot on the CV, not the whole CV?
My outer L side CV boot is ripped; I think it happened recently, and believe the axle is still OK. I'm not hearing any noises on sharp turns. From the service manual it appears you have to take the axle apart in order to get new boots on - is this difficult? Does anyone recommend the split-boot type where you don't even have to remove the axle, just put the new split boot on and seal the split with some sealant, like vulcanizing glue on a bike inner tube?
Thanks for any info!
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3A-C Power
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 849
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 5:22 pm
- Location: Ontario, Canada