Coil inspection

[JDNightFox]

I’m going through the coil inspection from the service manual and it says the pick up coil should measure between 130-190 ohms

When I tested the two wire points on mine, it measured 2500 ohms so I’m assuming that is not correct. It says to replace the pick up coil and the breaker assembly but how exactly do I go about that / where can I find one?

The engine is also still warm since I did a long drive prior to an oil change and inspection so I’m not sure if that would affect it so much

Also, just from physical inspection, if I turn the rotor back and forth I can hear a bit of a rattle inside it, is that normal?

From the vacuum inspection, the top diaphragm is leaking and does not seem to actuate anything, is there a way to repair that one?

The bottom one tested fine and I can visually see that rectangle thing moving when I apply vacuum

But what does the other one do?

[JDNightFox]

Also I changed the oil and accidentally broke off a red w/white stripe wire that went over the oil filter... what is that for?

Edit: I traced the wire and it goes to the AC clutch so RIP my ac for now

The secondary diaphragm does not pull vacuum under idle, but pulls vacuum when I'm on the throttle so that must be the adjuster for timing when I'm cruising, may explain why it has no acceleration

I may just have to buy a new distributor which will take care of all of it, unless I can buy a new diaphragm and keep the pickup coil as is

[Petros]

as I recall, one diaphram increases the timing when at a part throttle condition (such as a cruise mode on the hwy), it improves economy a bit by advancing the timing. this one should allow the timing to go back to just the mechanical advance when at full throttle, like when you push down on the throttle to pass.

the other one I think is attached to the emission controls and only allows the spark to advance when it is above a certain temperature. IOW it will retard the timing until all the way hot or warmed up, to reduce emissions. that one will harm economy.

it should run fine without either one working, except that it will act like a vac leak, so cap off the vac line that goes to the bad diaphragm. you can perhaps check what it does to the timing by appling vac to each line in turn when you have a timing light on the timing mark.

if you disable them, set your timing at 10 or 12 deg BTDC to improve power and economy.

it will have no noticeable effect to drivability to have either one (or both) disabled and capped off.

[JDNightFox]

so I pulled the distributor and it turns out both diaphragms are working fine, the top one had a cap on the other port that was dried out and leaking

Well I already bought a new distributor so I guess I can sell this old one, the only problem is the pickup coil needs to be replaced since the resistance is too high. I tested the resistance on the new one and it’s in spec so it definitely needs replacing