wheel alignment cannot be achieved after stabilizer bar bush replacement

[Dumindu]

My car is a Toyota Tercel 1987 4WD 1452CC DX Wagon.

I have replaced the stabilizer bar bushings with correct spares. When I replace the bushings I loosen the bar at the ends (at the Lower arm link). Then tighten after replacement.

Then I saw car hast lost the wheel alignment. So I tried to get the wheel alignment but failed. Even I get the Side Rods to the extreme end of the Rack End threads (in both sides) there is a 1 inch difference between front and rear of the front tyres.

What could be the cause? Should I tighten the bar ends more?

[teranfirbt]

That's very odd, were the old bushing severely worn? Did you replace the steel sleeve that goes over the end of the stabilizer bar?
Are both tires misaligned by the same amount? Are they too far forward or too far towards the rear?
How much torque did you use on the nuts that hold the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm?
Has the car ever been in a collision?

[Dumindu]

No wearings on the lower arm link bushes or bush covering steel could be seen. Previously the lower arm link bolts were moved upto half a inch on the rod. I found the rods were loose. So I moved bolts upto 3/4 inches until I feel hard torque need to move the bolt. I stopped the moving soon I feel the hard torque.

[Petros]

If it is all back together properly, with all the correct parts, it will not affect the alignment. In fact it will bring it back into spec if the old parts were badly worn out. Unless someone set the alignment with the bushings badly worn out (that would be an improper alignment job, first order of business on any alignment is to look for work or damaged/bent parts).

it appears you are saying the toe-in changed after the bushing replacement, if done properly, I do not know how that can occur. All the parts should be put back into the same location they came out from.

you might detail inspect every part of what you changed or disturbed to see if anything is out of place, or if you left something out.

The inner steel sleeve that goes on the sway bar ends is a "stop" for the large bolt. IOW, when you have all the bushings in place, and you have washer and nut installed, when you tighten down the big nut it will stop on the tube. This will always stop in the same location because of the steel sleeve.

[Dumindu]

Sorry.

I couldnt mention that I had earlier replaced Rack-Ends. Replaced ones were 1/2 inch longer than the original one (Original one couldnt be found in the market)

I didnt cut it because, on the original (old) ones, side-rods were somewhere 1/4-1/2 inch along the threads when the alignment attained. So I thought longer rack-ends would work. Perhaps they worked because the lower arm links were loose.

The problems were seemed to came after I tightened the lower arm links of the stabilizer bar.

So I cut the side-rods 1/2 inch instead of rack-ends. Now the problem is over. Drive is also better.

I cut the side-rods because the next thing that I have to replace is side-rods. Now the longer side-rods typical for Tercel are difficult to find at the market. Same shape with shorter stem could be seen. So I will able to use them with the longer rack-ends. Isnt it ?

[Petros]

any configuration that allows you to adjust to get the correct alignlment should work okay. just make sure you have not weakened it by not having enough threads engaged in the tie-rod ends.

normal rule is 1.5 times dia of threading for thread dept, to get safe and strong connection.

[Dumindu]

Thanks for the advice. Tie rod threading is engaged for around 1.5 inches. Tie rod diameter is around 0.75 inches. Would that OK?

[Petros]

Tie rod threading is engaged for around 1.5 inches. Tie rod diameter is around 0.75 inches. Would that OK?

that is perfect. don't worry about it, should be good to go.