Hello all, getting hot! I recharged my system approx. 2 years ago and tried it for the first time this season today. As expected it was blowing cool but not really cold. Opened the hood and as expected observed a lot of bubbles in the dryer sight glass. Looking for some first hand, hands on guidance on whether or not to attempt a dye leak test, or just replace all the seals since they have probably out lasted their intended life span. Rock has seal kits, but putting this post out before buying any kits or jumping into the project. Also interested if anyone has had any enduring success with A/C sealing additives. I used a product on one of my home refrigerators that worked perfectly, though I am aware that unlike an auto system which has multiple hoses, connection and O-rings, the average home ref. is a much more closed system. I have R-12 and trying not to waste any more on a leaking system.
Thank You in advance!
A/C seals
- splatterdog
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:26 am
- Location: Minnesota, USA
Re: A/C seals
UV dye or a leak detector(sniffer) would help.
Sealants are best avoided, unless it's the last chance at a/c on an old beater that needs a labor intensive job or expensive/unavailable parts. I've seen pics of compressors and condensers that exploded due to sealants. If detected by a shop, they may refuse service to protect their expensive machine. If it's air activated and there's any air in the system, that's going to be a problem. I've also seen intructions for one brand. It said to fix the known leaks first and replace the drier. Well if you fix the leaks, why the need for sealant?
Glad to see you kept it R12.
Sealants are best avoided, unless it's the last chance at a/c on an old beater that needs a labor intensive job or expensive/unavailable parts. I've seen pics of compressors and condensers that exploded due to sealants. If detected by a shop, they may refuse service to protect their expensive machine. If it's air activated and there's any air in the system, that's going to be a problem. I've also seen intructions for one brand. It said to fix the known leaks first and replace the drier. Well if you fix the leaks, why the need for sealant?
Glad to see you kept it R12.