Died on HWY, No Spark

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ARCHINSTL
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My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by ARCHINSTL »

When replacing the timing belt, it would be a good opportunity to replace the needed front seal!
See this for seal removal tool -viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10455&hilit=tool
See this for info on removal of pulley using home-made tools -viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12567&p=97224&hilit=pulley#p97224 and viewtopic.php? and viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12183&p=97384&hilit ... ley#p94050
See this for vinegaring the radaiator, as long as it is out - viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10496&hilit=water+pump
If your AC is non-operative, remove "the stuff" and see this photo -
Tom M.
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T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
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Petros
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by Petros »

time for a new belt, and front seals while you are at it.

your cam looks normal, the scratches are on a tang that is used with a special service tool to rotate the engine, someone may have slipped off of the flats. no matter, it will not harm a thing.

your cam lobs also look normal: they only make contact when on the "lift" part of the rotation, where is is shinny and polished looking. when it is off the lift, about 2/3rds or the revolution of the cam, the rocker makes little to no contact with the base of the cam lobe, so it builds up oil glaze there. that is what the valve clearance adjustment is done, when the rocker is on this base circle of the cam lobe.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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Petros
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by Petros »

I have never needed a puller for the front pulley, though the FSM says to use one. remove the radiator so you have good access to the front of the engine, get the big bolt off the end of the crank, and than with a big rubber mallet, give the pulley a couple of whacks on each side. than usually you can wiggle it off once it is broken free with the mallet. be careful not to chip the edge of the pulley when you whack on it. I have found if it is stuck, that I alternatively whack it at an outward blow angle, on each side. Eventually it starts working its way off, than you can pull it off my hand. a few times moisture has gotten in the pulley bore and will make it really stick, that is the only time I have found a puller necessary. Soaking it in penetrating oil may help if it rusty.

once you get the belt off (loosen the belt tensioner, and slip it off the cam sprocket), than you can put a socket on the cam sprocket and see if you can turn it. It wll have some resistance from the valve springs, but it should not drag or feel really stiff. the only way the cam might seize is if it was run dry of oil. The cam bearings fail first because the cam bearings are furthest from the oil pump, so if low on oil, cam bearings get oil starved first. if that happens you can likely recondition it yourself. clean up the cam journals with 400 wet and dry paper by wrapping a cord around it with the sand paper under the cord and pull it back and forth until it is cleand up. TRy and remove any metal transfer out of the cam bearings. there are no actual bearings, the cam runs directly in the aluminum had. if it is really buggered up the head has to get line-bored in a machine shop. if not too bad you can clean it up by hand with a wood dowel with sand paper warped around it, clean the cam bearings (with the cap bolted on) until polished smooth. take as little metal off as necessary to just remove the built up metal transfer.

this metal transfer is what causes the cam to seize. You also have to determine why it was run out of oil. If you had just not kept the oil topped up and allowed it get too low, than you know the cause. but if the oil was always topped up, there might be another reason it was oil starved. you must track it down and fix it or it will just happen again.

have fun.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by ARCHINSTL »

Be sure to remove the Woodruff key before attacking the pulley! It is easy to forget - I know ...
I think one of my above links mentioned a little "trick" I had to use on the key.
When it is off, polish the crank with fine steel wool and use Never-seize when reinstalling the pulley.
Tom M.
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"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
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xirdneh
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by xirdneh »

[/quote]

I've also been burning oil, so if there a trick to removing valve seals/guides without pulling the head? I'm thinking at this point I should just find a 4AC to drop in.
[/quote]

there is a youtube video on this for toyota tercel 4wd
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Petros
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by Petros »

soak the front pulley with penetrating oil (ATF works well too), give it some outward whacks with a rubber mallot on both sides of the pulley. carefully put a pry bar behind it and see if you can work it off. Apply a heat gun to the hub might help too.

becareful when prying on it, I have seen someone damage the oil pump housing and did not know it until they got the engine back together and it leaked oil like a seive, thought the new seal was bad, but it was the oil pump that needed to be replaced.

A puller will work if you have one handy. Usually auto-zone will rent you one for free (you get a full refund when you return it). I have improvised my own puller with a bar of aluminum with two holes drilled in it to line up with the threaded holes in the hub of the pulley. You placed it over the end of crank with a socket to apply pressure to the end of the crank, and use two long bolts into the pulley (12 mm head size as I recall). turn the long bolts alternating one at a time, works the pulley off. once it starts moving usually it just slips off the rest of the way.

Good luck.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
xirdneh
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by xirdneh »

i would not replace the oil pump seal
its a bear anyway
o ring for dipstick at auto part store
probably will not charge ya for it
if o ring is too thick it will not go in
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Petros
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by Petros »

some people have successfully used epoxy to repair the TVSV. just be careful to keep it from squishing to the inside of the device.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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rer233
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by rer233 »

I'd clean the area around the crack (and maybe scuff it a little) and apply some JB Quick. Switch PN is 90925-02076.

Good Luck!
if it aint there, there's a good chance it won't break!
83 SR5 Silver/Blue (Snowmobile/work beater)-totaled but drivable
85 SR5 Blue
88 SR5 White (the 'good' one)-not anymore-totaled
87 fwd silver wagon a/t
87 4wd dx Cream (a/t- not anymore- now m/t)
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Petros
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by Petros »

yes to all.

it is a clearance engine, so you can rotate the crank around without rotating the cam. once the rocker shaft is off all the valves are closed, so there is no risk of it getting damaged when you rotate the crank.

you can line everything up when you are assemble it, it is common for the timing between cam and crank to get out of syn when you take the head off, break a belt, remove the cam shaft, replace the cam seal, etc. so there has to be an easy way to get it all lined up correctly on reassembly. you just line up the crank to TDC on the pulley, and than line up the cam sprocket to the marks on the front of the head, and than install the belt. easy peasy.

take the rocker and the cam out without concern, do not wory about timing until reassembly.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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Goldie Forever
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My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
Location: Kirkwood, a 'burb of St. Louis

Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by ARCHINSTL »

Abra-Cadaver wrote: Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:53 amNow I'm thinking.... I didn't drain the block of coolant, just the radiator before removing. I haven't been able to see a drain on the drivers side of the motor- either it's hiding or caked in oil/crud, I have no idea- looked at FSM and the drawing doesn't seem to be giving me a good enough hint.
See viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10493
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by dlb »

I have not been able to repair any TVSV's. I've got them to stay together but when I tested them as per the FSM guidelines, they all failed to reach the 'hot' running stage.

Some people have found new TVSV's on alibaba but beware that site. A member here had his credit card hacked after buying TVSV's on there a while back. Maybe they have improved their site security but be cautious. Besides that, the dealer might still be able to order one for an astronomical price. Or see if someone here has a spare they can sell you.
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garyfish
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by garyfish »

there are 2 TVSV's right now on EBay.com (do a search for the Part #: 90925-02076)... one is brand new for $100+ and the other is used (but it looks good) for $62 w/ a 30-day return policy
1985 Tercel SR5 4WD wagon, 300K
1987 Tercel DLX 4WD wagon, 6-speed manual, 274K -- got this one running Jan. 2015 (had been sitting for 2 years); this has been my daily driver since 2016
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Petros
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Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by Petros »

$80 for a torque wrench is too much. Usually the autoparts stores have them for about $30. also try ebay? some can be far off, so calibrate it by putting the socket end in a vice or clamp, handle horizontal, and hang a weight off the handle. if you hang 33 lb weight at 16" out, it is exactly 44 ft-lbs. I have seen them off by as much as 8 ft-lbs.

That is great price on a radiator. hopefully you bought a decent t-stat, made in USA or Japanese only, the cheap ones made in china are junk right out of the box. I would not trust one, they are often off, but worse they go bad in less than a year and you get to replace it again. Not worth the risk of overheating and blowing another head gasket.

Same is true with the water pumps, buy only new ones made in Japan. the remanufactured ones fall apart in about a year, again not worth the savings.

Good luck.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
User avatar
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Goldie Forever
Posts: 6369
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:52 pm
My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
Location: Kirkwood, a 'burb of St. Louis

Re: Died on HWY, No Spark

Post by ARCHINSTL »

Abra-Cadaver wrote: Tue Jun 05, 2018 1:50 pm
ARCHINSTL wrote: Tue Jun 05, 2018 11:29 am See viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10493
Tom M.
thanks
In your pics- is that between the alternator bracket?
The FSM drawing looks like it's right next to the oil filter :?: :?: :?: :?: I'll have to get in there with some degreaser and carb spray, it's really dirty.
It is just SE of the alternator and a bit NW of the filter - it is hard to see and a PITA to drain.
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
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