Gaskets between intake and exhaust manifolds

[BrownBadger]

I am rebuilding my engine and had some port work done. The machine shop separated the intake and exhaust manifolds. I am getting ready to put everything back together, but cannot find the gaskets which go between the manifolds and the heat shield. The old gasket is in ok shape, but not perfect, so I'd prefer to go with a new one. I'm not sure about using gasket maker because of the temps. Does anyone know the part number or where I can get these gaskets?

[dlb]

just use the red hi-temp silicone gasket stuff. it's good up to 343* C (650* F).

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... ket-detail

[irowiki]

Rock auto has the gaskets.

One is under "intake manifold gasket:

ITM ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # 0951573
Engine Code 3AC (Only 15 Remaining)



There's a bunch under "Intake & Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set"

(intake and exhaust share the same gasket)

[BrownBadger]

I have the manifold to head gasket. What I need is the gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifold at the heat shield. As most have probably never separated the manifolds this is probably a much less common part to need. I'll probably end up using high temp gasket maker, but would prefer to find the proper gasket.

[teranfirbt]

From what I've heard, it's almost impossible to make those seal again.. I ended up welding a 1/4" plate into the hole in the top of my exhaust manifold. It took a lot of prep to get the cast iron perfectly clean, and I had to pre-heat the whole manifold in the oven to ~500 degrees. You should be able to weld the whole plate in. After you're done welding, while it's still hot, take a ball peen hammer and give the whole weld a good tapping, this helps to distribute the molecules in the weld to avoid cracking. Before it cools down too much, throw it back in the oven at 500 degrees and then turn the oven off. Leave the manifold in to cool slowly and you shouldn't have any issues with cracking.

[irowiki]

Oh that. Sorry I misread your question.

If you beef up the old gasket with some permex, it should work fine.

I'll take a spin through some parts catalogs later and see if I can see what part number it was.

[BrownBadger]

Thanks. I just looked through the exploded parts diagrams that were posted a few days back and it was not listed on the page with the manifold diagrams.

[irowiki]

It says "Refer to Figure 17-03" for the heat shield. I can't figure out where that is!

[BrownBadger]

Yeah, that's the same problem I had!

[irowiki]

http://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tercel/a ... 27/engine/

Try poking around there?

[Petros]

I think that is a metal gasket, they can be reused if they are not damage. I would do this: heat the gasket in an oven at 500 deg and than let it cool (it will soften it from being work hardened from the last installation). than use a flat fine metal file and touch up both surfaces so they are flat. than use a smooth metal plate or tile and some 400 grit sand paper like a sanding block and make the masting surface smooth. Press down with even pressure as you sand it.

clean it off good and than use new high strenght bolts to bolt it all back together. I usually like to use anitseize but you do not want these bolts backing out, so just get them real clean (and the inside of the hole they go into, chase with a metric tap if you have one). Torque to spec, and after it runs for the first time I would check the torque again. And occasionally check it after it has been running for a while.

It should seal fine. I do not think I would use high temp form-a-gasket, it can get much hotter than 500 deg here on long full throttle up hill runs. Just bare metal is your best bet at having it seal.

good luck

[dlb]

I do not think I would use high temp form-a-gasket, it can get much hotter than 500 deg here on long full throttle up hill runs.

high temp sealant is rated for 650* F, not 500*. i just read up on this though and found that the general consensus on exhaust manifold temps is that they run at about 650* C (1200* F) so i agree that the high temp sealant would not be well suited to the job.

that being said, driving full throttle on long uphill runs is asking for various other overheating-related issues, like head gaskets. it's just not a good idea. i think anyone driving a car with a 62-hp 3ac should recognize its limitations and drive accordingly.

[irowiki]

How long of an uphill run are we talking?

[marlinh]

My question is why did the shop separate the manifolds? Couldn't they have worked around it?

[BrownBadger]

I'm not sure. As far as I can tell they did all of the work when they were connected and then disconnected them to powdercoat the exhaust manifold, which I didn't really ask for. They didn't give me the bolts back either, but I have the bolts from my donor 4ac manifold I can use.