The Party Wagon engine swap thread

[Vienna]

Posting for paul,

Can't get the crankshaft pully bolt off, he's already snapped several of our poor sockets trying! Is it reverse thread or or it just suck on there THAT tight? Any advice to get it off.

[dlb]

they can be on there that tight. maybe try an impact socket, i believe they are hardened for such heavy duty applications.

has he soaked the bolt in penetrating oil like ATF or PB blaster?

[irowiki]

Can't really get to the threads to soak it.

also what is the best way to stop the engine from turning, I have Cord in the cylinder head number one but my dad thinks that's not quite good enough and might cause damage. Ideas?

[irowiki]

Got everything off of the engine down to the block, pictures:






Had a hell of a time getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off. Broke a socket, and an adapter, finally got it off with the wife on one side of the engine stand and me hauling away at it. Replaced the front seal.




Replacing the water pump. Do I need to take off the "rear" part of the water pump pictured there? (as the FSM says) Or just put the new pump on?

[marlinh]

It depends if you want to replace the o ring that is behind it. If you are this close, I would replace it. They are usually dried and cracked. Very easy to do now.

Those crankshaft pulley bolts can be a bear. That is why I am grateful to have impact tools and a compressor.

[irowiki]

Would an auto parts store have that oring, or do I need to get it from rock auto?

Ah ha:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0331

Darn, it'll take a few days to get unless they have a generic o ring...

[dlb]

good work on the crankshaft pulley, paul!

agreed with marlene on the water pump o-ring. do it all now while it's easier.

[irowiki]

How about the timing belt tensioner? It seems to spin okay...

Anyone have a part number for the oil check tube o ring?

[Petros]

I have never replaced teh timing belt tentioner in the 20 or tercels I have changed timing belts on. it is recommended to replace it, on other cars I have had bad luck reusing them, soon after you put in a new belt it will seize and break the new belt, but never had this problem on a Toyota engine. Up to you, I find the factory tensioner bearing is pretty durable.

I have also never had any problems with the large o-ring behind the water pump and just leave that on when I replace a water pump. If you remove the back half of the water pump housing you will break the seal and it should be replaced. along with the two small o-rings on the by-pass tube.

[irowiki]

The bypass tube has already been removed, but I have orings for that!

[marlinh]

I have had those o rings at the back of the housing leak. The o ring looked like it spent years in the sun it was so cracked. It is an easy fix now with the engine apart.

I replace tensioners if they are noisy when I spin them by hand. A timing belt kit is very cheap for these cars. I have never had one of them seize but I like to reduce the number of roadside repairs I have to do, by doing preventative maintenance. But that's just my opinion.

[irowiki]

Oh, so there are two o rings? I'll take the housing off the blown motor and see how it looks, I imagine it is going to look better.

I think the oil pans are actually the same between them, and they were both FWD too.

The tensioner on the blown engine only has 61k miles so it might be okay too.

[Vienna]

The engine is completely seized. How do you turn it to get the torque converter off, any ideas?

[irowiki]

That and I can't loosen the bolts that attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold. I have them soaking in PB, any other ideas?

[Petros]

Use heat, and you just need a much bigger wrench handle. I use deep six point socket on exhaust manifold bolts after soaking in ATF, use several long extension and long breaker bar handle from under the car where you can get a good leverage on the wrench handle. the hexes on the nuts often get rounded off, so make sure you use a six sided socket. 14mm as I recall.

I have also managed to remove the exhaust head pipe bolts with a box end wrench and a hammer like an impact wrench. Remove the carbon canister to get more room to work. heating the nuts also works as a last resort.

If the hex nut is really messed up, than use ATF, heat and a pipe wrench that has teeth the dig into the nut to break it free. replace the nut.

Usually you can free up a seized engine by filling the cylinders with ATF and let soak, usually the rings rust to the cylinders when an engine with a bad head gasket is left to sit around with water in the cylinders. if that does not work, remove the head and put large blocks of wood on the cylinders in the "up" position and use a big sledge hammer on it. that will get it to move. (the engine is junk anyway).