Looking for a 4WD front driver side strut tube

Need a car part and don't know where to get it or how to install it. Look here!
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Re: Looking for a 4WD front driver side strut tube

Post by NWMO » Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:17 am


Just dump it out to avoid any mess, you are correct, the original cartridges simply leaked.

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Re: Looking for a 4WD front driver side strut tube

Post by ARCHINSTL » Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:59 pm

T4WD augury?
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Re: Looking for a 4WD front driver side strut tube

Post by DanT » Wed Dec 05, 2018 9:49 am

Yahoo! I rebuilt the struts with KYB cartridges and got them in by myself. Took the car out for a test drive. I can definitely feel the difference in the ride. Sweet! Actually have functional "shock absorbers" in the front now!

This was a big intimidating job for me to do the first time, but now that I have been through it (with the essential help from this list) it would not be so difficult next time. I will pass on some of my experience below for other newbies...

Thanks for weighing in on the oil question in the strut tubes Chris and Tom. I was able to dump the oil out of the tubes with confidence , and drop in the new KYBs. (I think that Chris is probably right that the oil simply leaks out of the failing cartridge and collects at the bottom of the tube.)

Following Petros suggestion, I used a 5 foot long 2 x 4 as a pry bar to lower the stabilizer bar to get these rebuilt strut assemblies re-attached to the steering knuckle. Worked very well. I actually sat on the 2 x 4 while I put the bolts in, and was able to do this by myself. I placed the 2 x 4 flat across the attachment point for the lower control arm on the frame as a leverage point, and the flat wood worked well here. See photo attached.

I noticed that the stabilizer bar for the second wheel was significantly easier to lower than the first wheel. Why? My suspicion: I think it is easier to press this stabilizer bar down if you just remove one strut assembly at a time, and don't remove both of them at the same time, like I did. (After I lowered the stabilizer bar on the driver side and anchored it, I think this action would have made it easier to lower the stabilizer bar on the opposite side. The stabilizer bar is essentially U-shaped, and logic would suggest that the anchor point on one side is going to affect the height and tension on the opposite side.)

This also would explain why it might be possible to use the foot to stabilizer bar approach in the service manual to install a strut assembly... if you just remove one strut at a time. However, with both struts out I am skeptical about whether this FSM approach would be possible. (I had the car blocked with both struts out at the same time.)

One other thing in the FSM that did not work for me was relying on that keyhole in the top of the spring assembly cap to keep the shaft of the cartridge from turning... so you can loosen the nut. Not going to happen. That keyhole is not going to hold the shaft securely enough to loosen the nut on these old used struts.

As shown in Robert Walker's video, I needed to clamp a vice grip, tighter than hell, on the shaft within the top inch of the shaft, to have any hope of ever getting that nut off. And I needed to do the same thing when I put the new KYBs back in. As Robert points out, the cartridge is never going to pass over that top 1 inch , since there is a rubber cushion of at least 1 inch thickness. But without that vice grip, I would still be at the workbench in the garage staring at that nut .

Oooftah, glad to have this one completed.

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