Bike Carbs 4x32mm

[PrescottAZ]

Well no GPS so I won't be doing that. 31 mpg with 325 miles on the tank.
And I still floor it a lot. It is a lot of mixed driving. By mixed I am running my route for Redbox. Imagine stopping on every corner with a circle K, fry's, walgreens or CVS working on a machine for 30 minutes and starting up again and moving on. LOTS of stopping and starting and then hoping on the freeway and doing 65-75 mph all the way home.
It looks like this-
Driving about 100 miles @ 75mph starting in Prescott AZ @ 5300 ft elevation to Phoenix at 1100 ft elevation then drive 30 miles in 1-2 mile intervals stopping to merchandise machines and then the return flight home lots of hill climb at similar speeds. Total 230 mile trip. Not ideal for good mileage. I think the best speed for good mileage is about 50 or maybe even slower in this car since it is as aerodynamic as a brick.
Still a bit rich but I dont want to fork out for more jets and I need to hook up the choke. I am going to continue turning down the mixture screw. My enginge temp rarely goes above one third. So I am due for a thermostat I am sure. I would bet I am losing some efficiancy and power due to low operating temps.
Glad I did the swap for sure. Better mileage and more power.
I think it feels almost as good as the 5af with the webber, header and full 2.25" exhaust. More torque and sounds better. I may say it is as good if I can get the top end some more fuel or can get it to not suck the fuel bowls dry beyond 5k. Maybe I change the floats a bit too.

[Tercel__jon]

Thats really good...31mpgs. I got 29 on the stock carb when I ran up to richmond and back a few weeks ago. All highway around 57mph till we caught up with traffic in richmond trying my darndest to maximize my mileage. Oh and this is with my roof rack and iron gate bumper on too.

[PrescottAZ]

Finished putting a choke cable on it and finaly got around to putting a new t-stat in. I hope some better mileage follows. I also still need to put a new rear end in the beast as it is so bad now that it is pulling to the right. I think when I hit the junk yard I will source the remaining parts of the disc brakes and possibly make a move towards lifting the front. Still need to turn down the mixture screws but I am a little anal about stripping the screws out so I have to take the carbs off all the way to this and have been putting it off for that reason.
Winter gas sucks. I am under 30 mpg consistantly now.

Someday... I am also feeling like I have too big of jets to even use the adjustment screw to get it into spec any way.

[Petros]

unless you have one bearing bundled up in the rear, I do not see how a damage differential can cause pulling. either you have a caliper or brake dragging, or you have a problem in the front end (rod end, ball joint, bushings, etc.). Before you replace the diff I would put it up on jacks and rotate the tires to see if there is a problem with the diff. And also do a close inspection of the front suspension parts, and rear axles tie rod bushings.

When the diff fails you either get a loud banging or thumping (missing teeth on the ring or pinion gear), or a loud roar from crumbling bearings. A axle bearing locking up might cause pulling, but usually they just get noisy. Pulling is almost always from some wrong in the front end.

[PrescottAZ]

Well there is a small roar going on in the back that just gets louder as the days go by. I am thinking there are some bearing issues for sure and some crunch and pop every so often so I think something in the dif is bad as well. Either way it is the wrong gear ratio as the front is the 4.1 right now so I need to swap it out any way. Loud enough to have a hard time having a conversation at any speed above 30mph.

Just got 29.4 mpg on the last tank same conditions and winter gas. Not bad but I will be shooting for 35 mpg w/o being a hypermiler

I am also sure there is some suspension problems up front and plan to overhaul the front end when I get a chance as well. But I plan to open it up and do it all in a weekend so it will have to stay on hold for now. I will be doing a lift up front with a setup I am currently brainstorming. I already have the springs but I also plan to replace the disc brakes, calipers, brake lines, tie rod ends, inner and outer bearings, ball joints, drop the engine cradle 2", swap in different struts for a much higher spring perch (think 29" tires), ditch the front sway bar, add a new link to replace the LCA centering function of the sway bar but on the back side of the LCA and tie in a skid plate and front bumper. So I am going to hold out and buy a few parts at a time for the front and then do a full build. I will probably need half shafts by then as well. I am hoping to have it all together for next spring. That will be a new build thread all together though.

[PrescottAZ]

Just did a little more tuning on the carbs. Much tighter now. Will report in on mileage.

[Lil Beast]

That's not bad, but when you tune them got to keep in mind that your dealing with 4 carbs they have to be tune equally, one goes bad the whole will run like dooky. At one point of your story I felt like u might have low floats, the running out a gas part, or too low fuel pressure, they don't get fed enough. How's your spark plugs, more gas needs more spark. If old considered a new set of plugs than they will be easier to read. You'll have different reading on each, different per piston!!

One thing I know with those set up the closer on the block, the more throttle response. I'm using that route on my 4age cause of the exhaust on the other side they fit right againts the block, just not sure if it will be itb's or carbs. With the 3a ikve found the downdraught to work way better as they fit closer.

For the jet size when it's time to adjust, I tempt to use the lean best method, than do my timing again, repeat until stable. From there you can have a rough idea on your jetting , tight the mixture screw all the way by counting turns in. If between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 turns they should be fine. More too small, less too big.

I don't know if you solved vacuum line. If not, tap a hole in a inlet on your manif and plug a line. They pull an uneven vacuum, only 1 cylinder that sucks, but for the booster it should be fine as long as your vacuum power booster works good cheap cheap anyway.

[Lil Beast]

Again it only happen to you DARN blackberry is goin Berserk on me. Yesterday twice, today a triple, more re-edit and makes me look like

ae86.jpg

Crane Rally Crew from seattle the made 3rd in p2 class. Go Toyota!!!

Sorry again

[Lil Beast]

This reply to erase please! I've tried but get this: Your message contains too few characters
Thank you

[ARCHINSTL]

Dunno which one to delete ? ? ?
What you CAN do using the edit button (as it is your post) is to hit the edit button, then simply "sweep" the text with your left key, hiliting it, and then hit either the "delete" key on the keyboard or right-click your mouse and hit "delete." And do the same for the title of the post, so it disappears as well. Then hit "Submit."
Or -
open the post to edit it, and than simply left-click the mouse so the little blinking cursor thingie (word?) flashes and back-space until all disappears and then hit "Submit."
Tom M.

[PrescottAZ]

Clocked 25mpg in the snow 4wheeling. Not bad. Just put new bushings on the steering rack and replaced a thrashed cv axle. Hoping to see a little better highway mileage as it was kinda shaky at speed and feels much smoother. Will be doing a trip to PHX and back soon so I should see. It needs an lighnment now so I am not expecting magic.

[Lil Beast]

Alignment are quite easy to do! I use 4 jack stand(1 on each corner of car), 2. 7 ' long pvc tubing with holes at the end put strings thru a little longer than the car! Square every thing up! Than take a 2x4 lenght of the wheel 2 nails one to each end barely tapped in and level! Put the nails against wheel and line the 2x4 with the string! Check all the wheels!

[PrescottAZ]

Well the car rides much better on the freeway but not all of the shaking is gone. Must need one of the tie rods replaced as well. Vibrates at almost every speed and increases a lot after 65 but is noticeably less when turning right slightly... weird
I think I can feel some play on the passenger side wheel when I grab the front of it and move it in and out.
Need to jet down as I have the idle adjustment screw at 0 turns out. Currently the mid range is solid but 4k+ gets too much fuel w 162.5's maybe I order 155's and shim the needle jet a bit to get the mid range I have now. Last tank was 30mpg. Also going to find some restore and see if that improves things as well.

[Lil Beast]

If up and down shakes on the wheel it's a ball joint, if left to right play its the tie rod(inner or outer)! Ask someone to shake the wheel and you can go under and grab on the moving parts too to determine which one! It could be bearings as well but usually noisy a little(winding sound)!

[PrescottAZ]

new jets and i am over 30 mpg again w the big tires and lift. Also hit redline a few times to test out the top end.