3A versus 3A-C
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3A versus 3A-C
I couldn't find a thread on this topic. I figured there would be. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm wondering about this cause I looked at a Tercel the other day (http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicl ... Z289703290) and the guy had swapped the engine from an 86 Tercel Hatchback, which had a 3A engine in it, and put it into his 85 4wd Terc. He said a bunch of vac lines disappeared or something. Also the hatchback was an automatic. As I've understood it the camshafts from an automatic derived engine are better then what the manuals have. I believe he is still charging a little much for the car. He said he would bring it down to $1500 but I just don't have that kind of money right now. The interior is pretty clean and it runs reasonably well. The guy has 15 inch Honda rims with winter tires on it right now. I found that rather interesting. There's a good way to kill your gas mileage. If he brougt it down to $1200 I think I might grab it and add it to the fleet.
- Neu
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
From my understanding the real big difference between the 3A and 3A-C is simply the emissions requirements. That's why all the vacuum lines went away.
I dont know if the auto vs manual engines are any different (I dont see why they would be..in respect to the camshaft)
I dont know if the auto vs manual engines are any different (I dont see why they would be..in respect to the camshaft)
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
as far as I understand it, that is correct. 3-AC was intended for N American markets with tougher emissions requirements however most of the resources I have found still show both motors as having the exact same specs.
Also, as a side note, that price seems a tad high for the condition of the car. I dont know the market correct values for your local area but in PacNorWest area of the states, that car would be about a 500-750 car.
Also, as a side note, that price seems a tad high for the condition of the car. I dont know the market correct values for your local area but in PacNorWest area of the states, that car would be about a 500-750 car.
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
As far as I understand it, there are just variations with the emissions equipment as other have mentioned previously. The early Tercels have a big sticker that says 3A-C, even though they're not equipped with CA emissions. The '84 I have is a 3A-C, but it just has a sticker that says 3A on it, so it seems that from '84 on they just put a 3A sticker on the valve covers. I think there are about 2 or 3 variations with the emissions equipment on the Canadian cars, but I think the biggest difference is between the cars that have the feedback fuel system and the ones that aren't equipped with this.
I'm also not sure about the camshaft, but it appears that the 4 speed manual transmission hatchbacks came with a different cam, the power peaked at 4,500 rpm, vs 4,800 rpm and the torque also peaked lower at 2,500 rpm. Maybe they could've put this cam in the automatics, I'm not sure.
I don't think this car is worth $1,700 or even $1,500, especially since he mentions that it runs rough and the CV joints are noisy.
I'm also not sure about the camshaft, but it appears that the 4 speed manual transmission hatchbacks came with a different cam, the power peaked at 4,500 rpm, vs 4,800 rpm and the torque also peaked lower at 2,500 rpm. Maybe they could've put this cam in the automatics, I'm not sure.
I don't think this car is worth $1,700 or even $1,500, especially since he mentions that it runs rough and the CV joints are noisy.
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- Petros
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
all of the "hard parts" are the same on the 3a and 3ac, only difference was in emissions junk. If the paint was good and it had good cv axles, it might be worth that if there was no rust. but you can see the paint peeling in the pics, and the guy says it does not have much rust (what ever that means), and the cv joints are noisy.
You would spend about $300-400 to replace the cv axles with rebuilt ones, about $120 if you do it yourself (about $200US for new axles if you can find them). So $1200 is a more reasonable price. I would also want to know how many miles is on the clutch, they are durable (about 100k miles) but are a very big job to replace.
You would spend about $300-400 to replace the cv axles with rebuilt ones, about $120 if you do it yourself (about $200US for new axles if you can find them). So $1200 is a more reasonable price. I would also want to know how many miles is on the clutch, they are durable (about 100k miles) but are a very big job to replace.
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
Apparently he had the clutch done recently. There are a couple things I noticed that would need to be addressed. The half-shafts aren't a problem I've done them a couple times on various Tercels. It looks like it will need some exhaust work, perhaps a new windshield, and some other minor things. There is something funky going on with the paint. I couldn't see any visible peels but it had looked like some paint or the coating had peeled away on the hood and roof.
- splatterdog
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
Not sure what the market is like in your area, but it would probably sell quick around here or anywhere else they are scarce. Fairly low miles too.
Sorry, ramble over.
"A little rust" can mean anything from a few bubbles here and there to needing a tetanus shot to be near it.Petros wrote:the guy says it does not have much rust (what ever that means)
Apparently this one's didn't, but I've seen these clutches last well over 200k miles. Infact(I hope this doesn't jinx things) my old 84 defies your bad luck. It's at about 275k now and rapidly climbing. When I get to pick it's remains I expect to find an OE clutch. The headgasket has far surpassed some of your experiences too. It had 2 major overheats 10 years ago, and lately had been running hot for a month. On the highway the gauge was pegged. The heater on high must have kept it from boiling out as it never lost coolant. BTW, we recently broke 100f for the first time in years. Must have been a fun ride. Served him right though.Turns out the winter cardboard in front of the rad was still there. Timex has nothing on that car!Petros wrote: I would also want to know how many miles is on the clutch, they are durable (about 100k miles) but are a very big job to replace.
Sorry, ramble over.
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
C is Catalyst. I have 2 '84s, one a Cali model and the other a Fed. Both have "3-AC 4-AC" hood stickers and both say "Catalyst" in big letters.
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
All my 3ACs had stickers saying 3A on the valve covers.
Catalyst, as in Catalytic Converter? Makes sense to me.
I always thought the C stood for "California", or maybe even "Canada", but if it was for "Canada" wouldn't it be a
"3AC, eh?".
Catalyst, as in Catalytic Converter? Makes sense to me.
I always thought the C stood for "California", or maybe even "Canada", but if it was for "Canada" wouldn't it be a
"3AC, eh?".
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
Yes, Catalytic Converter.
The clue for me was the Emission Control System diagrams in the FSM. The only diagram labeled "3-A" is also the only one without the catalytic converter.
The clue for me was the Emission Control System diagrams in the FSM. The only diagram labeled "3-A" is also the only one without the catalytic converter.
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Re: 3A versus 3A-C
Shows what I know, I always thought the C was for Carburetor.
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