Replacing the clutch in Portland, OR...

[skyerunner]

Okay folks, so I decided that I really should replace the clutch before driving back to Colorado. The local shop quoted me $650... and you can imagine how I feel about that considering parts are <$150.
So, I'm planning on dropping the trans to do this, and considering it's been cold out it would be nice to have somewhere inside to work for a day. Anyone have a garage I could work in for a day or two? I'm also going to be replacing my lower swaybar bushings etc at the same time (finally). And I think I might just buy a craftsman 149 piece tool kit, but are there any "special" tools I'm going to need for this (other than spring clip pliers to take off the shift lever again)?

Deejay - you had offered repair help in P-town. Does that offer still stand?

Also, looking around it sounds like some people think the Duralast clutches are decent.
On Autozone I see two part #'s
NU31029A - for 107.99
NU31029 - for 104.99
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalo ... tid=254702

Can anyone tell me the difference between these and which one I should get.
While I'm at it, what else should I get/ replace?
Thanks!!

[Highlander]

No parts recommendations other than the throwout bearing. Be sure to clean the sleeve that the bearing rides over before installing it. BTW the bearing is a press fit onto the carrier- I used a vise and large sockets rather than a press. Pull the input shaft from the backside (4 or 5 bolts if I remember) after you lower the rear of the tranny, then you just have to clear the pressure plate with the bell housing.

[sdoan]

+1 on pulling the input shaft. If memory serves I was able to get the trans out without pulling the input shaft, but it was impossible to get the trans back in without pulling it. The Neaderthal that did the clutch before me took a sledge hammer to the firewall to make enough room so he wouldn't have to look at the manual. You may want to separate the exhaust pipe at the manifold to get the engine to tip back further. And its a good idea to drain the trans at least partially or gear oil can come out through the half shaft, tail shaft and shifter openings and run down your arm.

Good Luck on finding a warm place to work in Portland. I remember it being a wonderful city with lots of nice people.

[teranfirbt]

Looking at the way the Tercel is set up, I'd guess it might be easier (and less painful...) to pull the engine out the top and change the clutch out of the car rather than pulling the trans... Granted, doing that means having to re-route all of the vacuum lines if the carb is stock.

[Petros]

I have replaced the clutch both ways, pulling the engine and dropping the trans. I think dropping the trans is faster, I can get the trans out in about 30 min after it is up on jacks (know all the short cuts, the person who wrote the FSM is no mechanic).

If your rear main seal has over 200k miles on it I would consider replacing it. These neoprene seals last a long time, but they can get old and brittle with time, and they are inexpensive and fairly easy to install. If it is not too old however, I would not bother with replacing it, or if you plan on rebuilding the engine soon anyway.

You are welcome to use my garage, I have all the tools you need. We can probably get the clutch changed in an evening. I live about an hour north of Seattle, so it is a 4 hour drive from Portland to my house. I will be away this weekend however, but any time after the 15th would be fine, we even have a spare basement bedroom you can stay in.

[deejay1272]

Deejay - you had offered repair help in P-town. Does that offer still stand?

Hey skye - I'd love to offer you a hand! Unfortunately I can't offer you a warm garage space to work in. I live in an apartment with out any workspace and so do all of my friends! Let me know if you find a workshop area and I'll be glad to help you out.

-deejay