Lifting a Terk?

[simon84]

. Also, when the car was raised, tight turns under throttle or while hitting bumps, the axles would grind beyond belief. So much grinding that the steering wheel would pulse.

I had this same problem when I replaced the front springs and struts on my 84. It was even worse when I added a 1 inch riser above the strut mount to get that coveted lift. The new springs gave the front end a higher ride height and so now the cv axles were running at a different angle and grinding. It is aven more pronounced when turning since the angles on the cv joints are tighter in a turn. I just replaced the cv axles and all was quiet again. I guess the cv axles wear in at a certain angle and then don't like to run at a different angle. I had already replaced them once but that was almost 100,000 km ago.
I also had to add a 1 inch lift to the back springs just to even things out after the new front springs. I assume new back springs might have helped but I couldn't find any. As soon as I can get the back up another inch I will throw in the riser on the front again. Hopefully the cv axles will handle that.

I would post pictures of the car but I'm not sure how to do this. Anyone wanna let me know?

[Typrus]

I can't find rear springs either.
Would anyone say it'd be wise to lower the engine cradle at the same time as spacing out?

[takza]

This method still works and doesn't cost much. The 1200 lb springs on new longer throw shocks (not the MA700) would do it???

You'd get a boost AND longer spring travel.

<a href='http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php ... &f=7&t=210' target='_blank'>http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php ... 7&t=210</a>

[Typrus]

Hmm.
I want to have real new springs before I go and try to throw all my load on the Shock mounts. I would love to have longer springs made with better spring rates, etc, but I'm wondering just how much you can do before needing custom trailing links, Panhard rod, etc.
Aside from lowering the tranny, what would need to be done in order to push the front wheels back out to either stock width or slightly wider? Just a longer main link (I need to remember the real name for the dang thing) or that AND custom half-axles? If I wind up needing a whole front end rebuild... Thats a price thing to look up.. Maybe there is a longer half-shaft that will already fit? I'll have to call the company that did my half-shaft/axles on monday and find out about both that and when they did my half-shafts. Maybe they just look nice but in fact have 100+k miles on them?

How much longer can we squeeze out of our driveshafts before you compromise extension/compression travel? Can anyone recommend or speak against CarbonFiber driveshafts, aluminum shafts, etc if Off-Roading will be done?

I have this image in my head of an all-custom 4 inch lifted monstrosity riding on 28's or 30's. I seriously doubt that will happen, just a killer image.


What all would we be looking at for lifting more than 3 inches, front and rear?
What I can think of is Sway Bar location in the front. In the rear, I think you'd just want longer end-links.
A Beefier Sway-Bar in of itself would help the higher COG.
Could the MacPherson setup be made to point out a bit, to compromise for a wider track, assuming you made other mods for that?

Great, the brain is going nuts again.

[Typrus]

Rancho's... Well, Bilstein makes remote reservoirs as well. Bilstein is heavier duty, lasts longer, has a better ride.
Are those not way too long? Our coil springs are held in by a built in stop in the shock that keeps it from traveling too high, thus allowing the coil to fall out. I don't think the Rancho nor the Bilstein remotes have that.
That reminds me... Has anyone had an issue with the Maxair hyper-enxtending like that?

[Typrus]

1,340lb
1,610lb
1,580lb
1,630lb

Those are the weights of the Mattracks lowest-duty tracks. Thats up to 1,630 pounds right on the ground. Have a large stash of cash? Want to do a crazy lift on your Terc? Well, find a set that will work on the Terc, and there's your lower CG. over 50% of the vehicle by itself's weight right on the ground.
Sure, you'd need a lot more power to move that unsprung weight, but that would top off a kick-ass looking off-road Terc-beast.

[RabidHamster]

I've been kicking this whole lift thing around for quite along time (as I am sure several others are too)

and heres what I've generally come up with

as per the general concencious anything over about 2inchs your looking at a redesign of atleast the front suspension

the biggest problem is the axle angles ... the solution is, widen the track lengthen the axles. so heres my idea

air cylinders for the front.. 2inch spacers above the cylinders, then build a spacer/adapter for where the strut would mount to the knuckle assembly... probably around 3-4 inchs out... hell throw in another couple inches up while your at it

heres where it gets "pricey" and a problem for alot of people who really want more then 2inchs of lift

lengthen the lower A arms

and custom lenghtened axles (try and get stronger truck style double CV's while your at it)

the rear is alot easier.. but still around the same amount of work and replacement

switch out to another set of air cylinders , lengthened driveshaft, lengthen the trailing arms... and if your planning on running larger then 26inch tires.. this would be a good time to lengthen the rear stuff enough to move the axle farther back so when you take the sawzall to the body your not cutting into the doors (also will decrease your departure angle )


when I "finished" with my current project (78 datsun 620, for racing and show.. but I'm a new daddy and it only seats 2)

this is basically the project I will be undertaking... the nice thing about the air suspension is.. you can drop it down for easier getting in and out, you can have a nice ride moderate ride height position, and then if you get into a difficult situation or just for showing off, you can air then right up for a few more inchs of clearance

then for those poor IFS 4wd's, if you put a valve in to link the air cylinders side to side for off road only, when 1 wheel is pushed up the air displaces over to the other side and pushs the wheel down

there are also inline valves you can put into air cylinders to tune them like an aftermarket shock, and you can also plum in accumulators

now I just need to find air cylinders that have 8-10 inchs of travel

[Soutthpaw]

I am thinking of lifting my tercel also. Maybe even making complete kits for sale if there is enough interest. I need to get the engine rebuild done first though. Being that I work as a mechanic in a 4wd shop, I have access to all the part/ resources as well as having the all important knowledge on what will and will not work.

I am thinking of making a run of brackets to A arms and maybe drop the crossmember too which will lower the front driveshafts as well. though that will take away from the ground clearance. I have some spare tercel springs and struts so i will start looking at various take-off's to see if a stock spring is out there that will work. I would like to increase the load capacity of the springs as well as lift.

for those using air shocks consider doing an air-lift setup instead I think the 1000 series are the models that will fit inside the existing rear springs. as for using a cardan CV joint, the travel on those are less that a Rzeppa Joints

[RabidHamster]

yeah I'm a fabricator by obsession and a Mechanic by trade (currently working for toyota )

I think honestly I'd really like to try the idea I threw up above there first... and if (more like when) I decide I want more I would go towards grafting toyota solid axles and a proper RWD trans and T case into the car, and sell the bits I used for the monstrosity.... ofcourse like I said I have to finish my current toy and find a wagon

it really does sound like a huge job... but if you look at it in sections it's not really that big of an undertaking

you can also look at it along the lines of say you wanted beefier armored rear trailing arms for incase you have to slide one over a rock... just make a beefy one longer

same with the front a-arms... instead of just boxing/armoring them... extend em out some with threaded mounting points so you can make nessasary adjustments to alignment too

honestly I think the biggest PITA would be getting the custom front drive axles made

if done right you could see 4-5 inchs of lift with additional 3-4 inchs avail for nasty offroad excursions.... staying with the stock style driveline I wouldn't go over a 28inch tire, and would do an engine swap to go with it.... with a 140hp 4age swap... that suspension .. 28inch tire with the stock 22:1 crawl ratio ( of the later wagons gearing ofcourse) you should have no problem following your freinds with mild modded 4x4's on some pretty technical trail runs

however I would add a hand throttle and a 6K lb winch into that stew too (just incase) .. on a side note don't bother with bigger then a 6K lb winch on a 4wd wagon... cause if you friend with a 5+K lb truck is stuck... your not gonna be a heavy enough anchor to pull him out anyways your winch will just drag you in with him

[Soutthpaw]

yeah one thing about the tercel rears if u change to the truck rear you can get a locker to fit the rear diff. I am thinking about getting a lift that permits 27 x8.50 14LT size tires without rubbing etc. If you go much bigger you really dont have the torque to turn the wheels. Besides I always have my Powerstroke if I really want to do serious off roading.

[Typrus]

Awwwwwwwwww... I wanted to throw my dads old 295/75R16's on her! lol. Those things are taller than the hood.

Ever heard of a TDI? 1.9L I-4 Turbocharged Direct Injection Diesel. Good for around 90 HP and something like 140ft/lb torque. Easily moddable to far more. Torque is not an issue if you are already that far on.

Hell, if you put a Samurai's drivetrain in, they make bellhousing adapters for the TDI's.

[RabidHamster]

yeah a TDI to smaller sammy parts grafted in would be slick

although I wouldn't attempt a TDI with the stock trans/driveline even the higher reving torque from a 140hp 4age is really pushing it

[Typrus]

Our trannies self-destruct very rapidly at anything over 100HP/100ft/lb torque. A TDI on a fully stock tranny is essentially out of the question. Quite frankly, even a 4AGE should be, without minor mods.

[RabidHamster]

which parts of the trans grenade??... is it the gears physically letting go? or is the case twisting which hurts the gears?... the splines for the 4wd engage?

just a side thought too... what kinda driving does this rapid grenade happen?

cause kinda the whole point of this lift is to fit bigger tires.. and other then looking pretty and cruising those bigger tires are gonna need more then 67hp to be effective

part of this lift and swapping the corolla rear axle is to solve those breakage and heavy wear problems

just wondering if beefing up/bracing the case and having the gears and shafts treated would be enough to slip a 4age in

I'm more focused on more technical mild to moderate crawling then bogging or back road baja runs (however those are fun too )

I don't mind being a guinea pig in this, partially being i think theres some still untapped potenial in these lil wagons... and I can get genuine toyota parts cheaper then joe off the street from work ... and I'm a tercel freak

but I still don't wanna have to source half a dozen trans/tcase units just to destroy em

[coltarms]

This is why I believe that the only real way to lift a terc more than 3 inches is by swapping in an entire new drivetrain and going with a live axle in the front with a T-case.....but that is a whole other thread.....and very very difficult. The cheapest way would probably be to find a 4wd vehicle with a matching wheelbase and a body on frame construction and just swap on the Terc body.....yeah, I know it's a unibody, so what....