CV swapout

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:30 pm

Hey there, everyone.

I drive a 1983 Tercel SR5 here in sunny Tasmania, Australia.
I love the capability of taking it offroad at the flick of a lever, adn the huge cargo space is always handy in my other hobby, which is firefighting.

I've got to swap out the CV joints soon and really don't want to pay my expensive mechanic to do it. I've done CV swaps on other, smaller cars and removed one CV myself on the Tercel by disassembling the suspension and breaking open the joint near the differential housing. <_<

I'm thinking about doing it another way this time, however.

Is there anything I should watch out for?

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 6:11 am

You could try here:

<a href='http://cflcomputing.com/tercel4wd/invis ... &f=4&t=158' target='_blank'>http://cflcomputing.com/tercel4wd/invis ... 4&t=158</a>

The easiest method is to buy rebuilt axles and replace them along with the oil seals in the trans.

You might ask some mechanics for their opinions on the best rebuilt axles to buy...double the work to replace them again.

It's not too bad a job if you take your time and do the job carefully. And get good axles.....but I wouldn't mess with one unless it is showing real signs of going bad.

Firefighting in the brush & trees? Good hobby!

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 11:26 pm

Lat time I pulled the left-hand CV out, it took us all damn day, as the mechanical engineer who helped me with it disassembled the entire suspension, just like it says to here.

When I asked a mechanic mate of mine, he recommends simply taking to the threaded end of the CV with a wooden mallet to remove it from the bearings.
He doesn't mess with the suspension much at all, bar removing the steering tie-rod to give the CV somewhere to go when he hits it.
Once he's got a bit of a gap there, out comes the crowbar to remove it.

Surely that way is simpler? Less messing about, etc.

Oh, and I found a few videos that you guys might find interesting.

<a href='http://www.monstertruck.com.au/video.html' target='_blank'>MonsterTruck.com.au Videos</a>

Is this anyone we know?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 7:11 am

Yep...axle nut...tie-rod end...and MAYBE the 2 front swaybar mounts were LOOSENED, not removed....

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 7:17 am

That's my post above....forgot to log in...

Could you say what tires and wheels you are using?

Done any suspension mods?

Can you close your hood on that Weber carb? One member had one on his car.

Cam?

Maybe you could take this poll? Doesn't work, but you could post some results?

<a href='http://cflcomputing.com/tercel4wd/invis ... 95&hl=poll' target='_blank'>http://cflcomputing.com/tercel4wd/invis ... hl=poll</a>

Added my time......

Thereminator · Post by **Thereminator** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 9:53 am

Yeah,Id like to know about your Aftermarket Cam and while your at it you guys "down~Under" might as well get~it~over~with and tell us about the headers and lift~kit Too!

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Thu Aug 26, 2004 12:32 am

Weber modification is a 32/36 DGV Weber on a Redline adapter.

I'm not sure what particular Redline adapter, as the number is buried underneath it, on the manifold. It's got the standard round 1.5'' high flow air filter and the bonnet closes fine.

Manifolds are standard, but the machine has a broad torque range Crow Cam in the valve cover. Dunno if you can source these, but it's similar to the Corolla one.

I'm replacing the tyres soon, so I'll let you know what size they are when I get there.

CV joint is first, however, as it sounds like I've secreted a bad drum kit in the guard when I go around a corner.

Catch you all later.

warbstrd · Post by **warbstrd** » Fri Aug 27, 2004 7:55 pm

Can you close your hood on that Weber carb? One member had one on his car.

weber kit came with the 3.5 inch k&n filter..no way to close the hood..so i had to buy the 1.5 inch filter. with that filter the carb still hit my hood , but the hood would close all the way. I kept having an intake vac leak and found i torqued the bolts WAY to damn much and broke the in/exh. manifold. got a new manifold from the junkyard off a old tercel with the 3ac engine. DIFFERENT manifold!!! it fits BUT the carb now sits up about an inch higher, therefore my carb really hits the hood and it wont close at all.

if anyone gets the weber carb kit make sure you tell them you need the 1.5 inch filter.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Sat Aug 28, 2004 8:59 am

To get at the CV joint I just take out the two bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut and then the steering knuckle tilts outwards. The tie rod and ball joint are actually harder to work with because of the tapered fit they have. They need to be forced out after the nut is removed and then the joints tend to turn when you try to tighten the nut back on. The wheel end of the axle come out easy once the nut is removed. The transmission end is harder because it's held in by a spring clip, but I didn't have much trouble getting them with a crow bar.

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Sun Aug 29, 2004 10:07 pm

3.5'' K&N filter? :blink:
On a 32/36 DGV series Weber? :blink:
That's not the right filter setup. The 1/5'' round filter is the right one. Or the 1/5'' rectangular one is right. 3/5'' is way too big. <_<

Overhauled the Weber on the weekend and found that the air/fuel mixture was set way too high as one of the idle jets was blocked. When I re-started the engine, the engine revved like all hell.

After a little swearing and retuning, it was fine. Purring like a kitten now

Thanks for the info on removing the CV joint. The last time I did it was obviously the wrong way.

Oh, and I'll post some photos of the Weber setup when I get hold of a digicam.