do not click

[Ed]

.


































































.

[Typrus]

Dear God...

I was going to suggest SeaFoam.... But dang.... SeaFoam doesn't weld Panhard mounts....

Anything else coming loose? Rust a big issue?

[ARCHINSTL]

Well - as clean as it is o/s and particularly i/s - I think you should bite the bullet and have it welded (or a new mount fabricated). You might be able to save a few by enquiring if the local trade school does such work for free or a modest fee- in STL, some private and public trade schools do that sort of work, although it can take a while.

You were right on the hit if selling - it would knock it waaay down - after all, it's something that takes talent and equipment to resolve - and if you do decide to go that route, I would suggest getting a statement of liability release from the buyer - and have it notarized; it's just a good practice in today's society. Do not take a chance with this!
Tom M.

[takza]

I was thinking....DUCT TAPE...but maybe not.

I wouldn't take a hit on the price. Try to find somebody with a lift who does wire welding...maybe some hole in the wall muffler shop might do it? Jack that part back up where it's supposed to be and he could weld it in there stronger than new.

Disconnect the battery FIRST though...neg cable 1st.

Might want to wire it up and drive easily to get there?

The other stuff could be fixed as you get to it?

[Mattel]

crikey... SR = salted rust!

lucky you got that spark guard to protect the front of your fuel tank... never seen one of those on an OZ version

I'd go the Takza route... unbolt the panhard if you can get under it as it might will help when they weld it on/scraping on the ground... no steeply banked corners perhaps for a while.. check for more rust first at the top of where your rear struts meet up with body check from the inside too..

car looks good apart from that.. carbi sounds like it could be needing gasket kit or rebuild.. I'd leave that to the pro's though... good luck

[mailman]

Ed, get him fixed. nice ride. The Mailman

[keith]

Try to find somebody with a lift who does wire welding...maybe some hole in the wall muffler shop might do it?

Very good advice. MIG welding thin metal takes a lot of training and few people can do it well. Muffler shops get a lot of practice with this. You may need to fabricate some reinforcing plates if there is much rust in the area.

In the long run, a muffler shop can be a real bargain, but not a chain place like Midas.

[Typrus]

I love Collins Muffler. Best place for a long drive. Bud's in Denver being the next good place I know of.

Run SeaFoam through your whole system. If there's some gunk in the float, a heavy dose of SF in the tank for at least one tank will help clear it out.

Just make sure to check for rust elsewhere.

[hornett22]

it's a lost art to find someone who really knows what they are doing.

these guys are awesome and great prices.

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-toyotacar.html

[Mickey_D]

crikey... SR = salted rust!

Heh, you've never seen mine, then. I've parked it indefinitely due to the rust.

I'll give you a hint : the driver's rear mud flap fell completely off and the jack storage area has no bottom to it. The rocker panels are gone, as is half the subframe behind them. There's at least an inch to two inches rusted off around the wheels on the fenders, and the bottoms of both front doors are missing!!

I'll get some pics tomorrow for you!!

[ARCHINSTL]

it's a lost art to find someone who really knows what they are doing.
these guys are awesome and great prices.
http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-toyotacar.html

This is interesting - I will let you know tomorrow or so about the warranty; I purchased a carb from it in October of 2005.

The first one was returned because it was similar (but different) to our #15340. The second worked, although the primary throttle shaft was too tight and caused the butterfly to bind. Virtually all of the Phillips screws were barely tight. Additionally, the idle mixture plug had been drilled out; now, this in itself was fine with me - but the screw was backed waaay out, which I discovered when I encountered "difficulties" in setting up (I presumed it was at the correct position, from the claim about all being "engine tested," whatever that is - hundreds of engines mounted on test stands?...). I also have my doubts about all shafts being rebushed I could see no evidence of that, but maybe I just missed it.

Having written that, after I remedied the preceding - it worked OK until now, a scant 4K miles later (I started a thread in the Technical Questions Forum).

Anyway, I am to call the tech rep tomorrow: there is something wrong with the carb, whether the AAP, the accelerator pump or ? ? ?
Tom M.

[Ed]

I took it off the road for now. I'll take some time to think about what i want to do with it exactly. I'll probably fixer up and put in some time and some $.

My local university is currently working with suspension systems so I'm gonig to give them a call to see if they'd be interested on working with it. Ideally i'd like them to fix the rear suspension problems as well as that nasty vibration from the front right wheel.

If they'll fix those things I'd be very happy because of the less work i'd need to do and the cheaper price for student's to work/learn with my terc. I'll compare their prices/quality with a muffler shop as well.



About the carb...will a seafoam treatment (or two) significantly improve my situation? All I want is for it to be drivable. Currently its a constant feeling that's like I'm running out of gas.

That carb site for selling new ones...my engine is a 3A and I didn't see anything but for a 3A-C.



Ed

[dcn]

Hang onto that car like grim death I'd say. We got rid of our Neon for a new car before it started costing us money, but I can't see the same being a factor for a Tercel. IMHO that is.

[Typrus]

SeaFoam MIGHT help that. It'll depend purely on whether its a deposit problem or a worn part problem. I'd try the Foam treatment first personally. For $30-ish you can blast the system clean before spending $200-ish on a good rebuild. I'll go bump my writeup.

[Mac]

well, I may be abel to help.

first off, replace all the vacuum lines, it takes about 7' of hose and about an hour. that should help with the hesitation, or at least give you a good place to start looking for the problem.

I have a wheel bearing i'm not going to be using any time soon, i paid $50 for it, you can have it for $20, then all you will need is a new seal kit ($17, toyota-only part) plus shop time to press in the new bearing.

I have a carb that isn't perfect, but probably better than the one you have and i'd be willing to do a trade +cash deal if you want.

get the rear panhard bar support welded back, any body shop, muffler shop, even car shop can do that for you, i'd call around for a price.


if you want a hand working on it, shoot me a PM, i'd be more than willing to have a quick look and help you out a bit with it.