f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

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dlb
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f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by dlb » Wed Nov 06, 2019 12:13 pm

If there's one thing I hate on most cars I've worked on, it's nylon locking nuts. Removing them is such a pain in the ass. Right now I'm wrestling with the one on the driver side ball joint on my wife's Accent. Does anyone have any good tips on how to get them off when they are really f-ing stuck, and the stud of the ball joint is turning with it even when I've got vice grips as tight as I can get them on the stud, and there's no room to get anything on the nut other than a standard wrench? I expected to find lots of 'how to' vids on this on youtube but can't find anything. I can't be the only person in the world who has had trouble with these.

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Petros
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Re: f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by Petros » Wed Nov 06, 2019 5:10 pm

cut it off with an angle grinder. a PIA, but it may be the only way.

I have manage to get them off by soaking the nut in ATF, and than driving the taper stud into the mount to hold it from turning, and than use a pneumatic impact wrench on it to work it free. it does not always work.
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larry mcgrath
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Re: f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by larry mcgrath » Wed Nov 06, 2019 5:39 pm

Put a hydraulic jack under the ball joint to push it up into the taper-- this has worked for me

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dlb
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Re: f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by dlb » Wed Nov 06, 2019 6:42 pm

On this particular car, the outer joint of the CV axle is in the way of removing the ball joint nut, which means the stud has to be lowered out of the taper to remove the nut. I generally like working on this car but this particular design stinks. Anyway, I wound up just cutting the stud just below the nut with a hack saw since I couldn't fit the grinder in there.

But back to nylock nuts, is there some trick to getting them off easily? I find they really bind up on removal. I've tried burning the nylon out with a torch but no luck with that method. It just melted and deformed.

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Petros
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Re: f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by Petros » Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:11 pm

I do not like them in this kind of application. you might try melting out the plastic with a caustic liquid, brake fluid sometimes work, or acetone is also good for melting most plastics.

the old castle nut and cotter pin are more reliable and easier to get off. but that adds a step to the assembly, so it might cost the manufacture an extra 5 cents to use castle nuts and cotter pins.

I think if you put a standard nut with a lock washer under it, once it is broken loose, the nut will spin off with minimal resistance.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

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dlb
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Re: f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by dlb » Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:41 pm

That's a good idea, I'll try melting the nylon with acetone next time.

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Re: f#*%ing nylon locking nuts

Post by splatterdog » Fri Nov 08, 2019 8:20 am

The rust on the exposed threads adds to the resistance of the locking nut. Some wire brushing or wheeling then some penetrant to start. As mentioned a jack under the control arm will put pressure on the tapered stud hopefully keeping it from rotating. If removing an outer tie rod with nylocks a large prybar usually against the bottom of the strut can be used to tension the tapered stud. Finally, an acetylene torch when all else fails. Just keep away or shield the outer cv boot from the heat. If I have to reuse a beat up nylock Loctite is applied.

Cutting is a last resort, especially if it's not a ball joint job to begin with.

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