What have you done to your wagon lately?

[4wdEconoBox]

Yeah, thats crazy, I pulled my bumper and everything off just to get the engine by itself out... I couldn't imagine pulling both of them at the same time with the bumper on..... Your a better man than I am lannvouivre... haha. In retrospect I wish I would've pulled the trans out too just so I could clean everything good...

[Petros]

I have not had to take the bumper off on any engine pull, I have left the grill and cross beam in place when pulling just the engine (it is light enough once stripped that raising the engine high enough is not too bad).

I have both pulled the engine separate from the trans, and pulled them together, both have their share of problems and hassles. I would rather pull them separate, less weight to have to wrestle with and you usually have to unbolt the bell housing anyway no matter what you are doing next, so I just as soon do it in the car and pull them separately, not as much weight to fight with going in or out. somewhat a hassle to line up the engine with the trans when installing the engine, but I usually line everything up by eye (using a jack on the trans) and hang the engine in place to allow me to wiggle it around until it slips into place.

[4wdEconoBox]

Yeah, most of what I did was unnecessary but I don't like lifting engines really high with our cherry picker. So I just had to raise it a tad and then I pushed the car back and it was out! Our cherry picker is bolted to cement and not a roll around kind btw, sturdy enough, but gets kind of sketchy when spinning it haha. Plus I wanted to spray everything with undercoating so I came in handy all the way around! I had a heck of time lining everything up when I did it, but it'll be easier the next go around.

[lannvouivre]

I am thinking I will put them in together for the Nerd Points, or to make up for being lazy. I probably can't lift the trans by myself, so may as well practice on the hoist positioning. I have done a transaxle powertrain for a FWD before, you know, the modern laterally mounted setup. That was no problem. I have been spoiled by the 1ZZ, truly.

[lannvouivre]

Removed old pilot bearing, installed new one, and ordered a 1ZZ crank pulley bolt for $5.

[4wdEconoBox]

I haven't done very much to move lately, but I did spot Rudolph in its natural habitat the other day!



Did it just for laughs, gets even more attention now haha

[Petros]

Removed old pilot bearing, installed new one, and ordered a 1ZZ crank pulley bolt for $5.

is there something special with the 1zz crank bolt? Just wondering if there was a reason to use it. Is there anything wrong with the hardened steel bolt that comes on the engine stock?

Most of the modern front pulley bolts are soft "torque to yield" and not reusable (though I know most mechanics reuse them anyway). I do not know if this is the case with the 1zz front bolt. I would rather have the older hard steel bolts, lasts longer and not as likely to get stuck and deform when trying to force them off.

[lannvouivre]

I messed up the 3A-C's pulley bolt, or it was already chewed up (I didn't check before I pulled it off). I already knew the 1ZZ bolt would fit and it was really cheap new from the dealership, plus it will probably be here later in the morning. Since I didn't know if they'd be able to get 3A-C parts or not, let alone for a sane amount of money, I just went ahead and got a bolt that's probably overkill but I know fits. I had an ebay seller send me an M16x1.5 45mm crank pulley bolt off another Toyota engine because he apparently had no desire to check the size when I asked if it was M12x1.5 and 20-30 mm; he just said "yes". It was a fantastic way to waste a week.

Kinda wish I'd gone and ordered the bolt from the dealership sooner, but I didn't have the part number at the time and two of the three parts ladies hate me.

EDIT: The crank bolt for the 1ZZ is reusable. There was a TRD 12-point bolt for crank pulleys that you're supposed to install if you install the TRD supercharger, but it's supposed to be even stronger and is probably really rare by now.

EDIT2: Found the TRD bolt.

[Petros]

the bolt holds on the front pulley/harmonic balancer. It soul function to hold the clamp up, there is also a key way to lock the pulley/balancer in position. I do not see there there is every very much load on the bolt other than clamp up force from the installation.

So a stronger bolt is a benefit how? It has no shear loads and a fixed tension load from the torque up that never changes.

I have discovered messed up bolts too, I carefully filed or ground the flats and cleaned up the damaged corners, and reused it. These are so large I never saw the need to replace it after redressing the flats.

[lannvouivre]

UNF the new bolt is on and it's super pretty.

Painted the pulleys and intake manifold that my dad's paint guy sandblasted clean for me. I still need to get some stuff with the exhaust manifold taken care of. It looks like someone dunked it in saltwater over and over and the carb/intake warmup hole has a bad gasket and the spring on the little internal deflector isn't really functional anymore. Not to mention one of the bolts was so seized up that it kind of snapped off instead of breaking loose. I was thinking of getting my guy to weld a block off plate recessed inside of the warmup opening, but am not sure if it'd be such a good idea with the Weber probably needing that to help get up to operating temperature.

[Petros]

all manufacturers heat the intake manifold by one means or another, even on the fuel injected cars. Best leave the coolant circulation for the weber, though if you live in a desert state that rarely gets near freezing you likely will not miss it, but if you ever drive up into freezing weather you risk getting carb or throttle plate icing.

[irowiki]

It isn't coolant circulation, it's the exhaust manifold valve that lets some exhaust hit the intake manifold when it is cold. That valve is broken.

I'd just lock the valve in the shut position which will allow some bypass, instead of just blocking it off.

[Petros]

You are correct, the 3ac uses exhaust to heat the manifold, for a moment I thought I remembered a coolant galley in the intake manifold. but that was on other models of Japanese cars I have owned, and on the EFI Toyota I have had. Easy to get mixed up when you work on some many different kinds of cars, particularly as you age.

[lannvouivre]

Petros, you're like 22, 23 right?


1ZZ and 3A-C crank pulley bolt side-by-side. Fits perfectly. Best $5 dress-up I've ever gotten. Wish I had more money, I'd like to have the engine brackets all blasted so I can repaint them for maximum bling, but I suppose I can do that another time. I'd also get all new fasteners, probably.



EXEDY clutch is now installed! Old one was heavily soiled with grease and the pressure plate's metal friction surface was...I'm going to put it outside and let it rust to see if the chemical makeup of the friction surface got changed. Regardless, it was badly scored. I think it got overheated in some spots. I haven't seen one discolored like the one that was off the Cummins diesel engine.

[BaileySims]

I really wish I would have painted my engine and engine bay the multiple times i pulled my motor. Looks so damn sweet!