Tercel4WD.com

NO matter how good of mechanical condition of your Terc, I know it would cost way more to fix than the car is worth. Either replace the car, or keep it as-is until it dies. If I owned it this is what I would do: take a wire brush, or wire wheel, and get as much of the peeling paint and loose rust of...

Before I pull it appart I would check all the vacume lines to make sure they are hooked up, and none are cracked or leaking. Often a loose hose or vac leak will not allow it to idle. And if it is one of the fuel cut-off solinoids as Gasoline Fumes noted, rebuilding it will not bring the idle back un...

Hah! up and running again. and it has never ran better. I do not know if the combustion chamber grooves helped, or if scraping off all of the carbon from the cumbustion chambers and piston tops did it, but it seems much smoother running now. The ping is noticably reduced, I can pull from only 1500 r...

Ahh, I have much experiance with such issues. If she is like most women there are two issues that will be going through her mind: 1) she will see it as something she has to "compete" with for your time or money (of couse she wants you to spend all your discreasionary time and money on her)...

There are no deformable bolts in the toyota or the manual would say to replace them. Both the head and flywheel bolts are hard steel, they do not deform. I got my head off yesterday and it gasket failed between the 1 and 2 cyl. oddly the compression was still okay despite the fact it was using about...

I have had this problem before. the best way I think is to remove the starter and engage the flywheel teeth with a pry bar (having a helper do this is useful). Put penetrating oil on it and also carefully heat the pully and nut (it will sofen any goo caught in the threads). Use a new socket if yours...

I do mine warm, engine off. Every time I did it cold as my manual says, I get ticking no matter how many times I recheck. I do it with engine warm and get quiet!

I have another car to drive and replacing the head gasket I can do in only about 4 hours (presuming I have everything I need ready). It will only cost about $20 or so worth of parts. but I do not want to keep doing this twice a year, so I want a permanant fix. I figure I can lower the compression ab...

Since my last post I learned a few things: I am not losing any oil. The "smoke" is steam not oil, now I am losing A LOT of water, about a quart every 60 miles, and there is no visable leak. At idle the exhaust is cooler and it is condensing at the exhaust pipe-looking like smoke, under loa...

I had a chance to check the engine, the compression is good on all cyl. between 157 and 160 PSI (I am running 11:1 CR). The valves appear to be all okay, so I guess I will not be pulling the engine appart. Valve lash is all still good. Perhaps just have a bad valve seal. I had burned two valves afte...

after only about 10k miles it appears I have another exh. valve failure. I will check tonight, but I get occation puffs of blue smoke, and it is running rough. So either a seal went bad (easy to fix), or I burned and wasted another valve and guide (lots of work to fix). If so I think this darn 3ac e...

flat top pistons available from Sealed Power (federal mogal). They are same cost as "oem". Will not accept circlips for the wrist pin but you can use the plastic buttons I suspect. But why? The press in wrist pin works fine for normal usage, no movement and it will not fail. If you are pla...

I have heard these stories of 100mpg carbs on Cadalacs 35 years ago. In collage I tracked down every single one I could find, even found an expired patent for one. They are all myths. Either hoax, chranks or ignoramics passing around runors and non-sense. IT is impossible. In collage I had access to...

it is possible the carb needs warm air to fuction properly, but hot air intake in a normal running engine makes efficiency drop. Also in very cold climates you will get ice forming in the manifold unless you have heated air intake. The fuel vaporizing causes a drop in temp resulting in ice formation...

It occured to be it could be the spring install. It did it before the strut install, and after, and after I and reinstalled them as well. Though it is possible it was never in correctly. If that all it is I will not worry about because nothing will come of it. I am just concerned something important...