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The 24mm low profile drain plugs are known to be easily marred/stripped when attempting to remove, later model Toyotas use the same plug threads only in an internal hex (allen) plug. These are the Toyota part numbers for longer magnetic plugs for drains and shorter non-magnetic plugs for side/fill....

The 24mm low profile drain plugs are known to be easily marred/stripped when attempting to remove, later model Toyotas use the same plug threads only in an internal hex (allen) plug. These are the Toyota part numbers for longer magnetic plugs for drains and shorter non-magnetic plugs for side/fill....

I’ve recently had some charging issues. Classic ‘Charge’ and ‘Brake’ lights on, and then she full-on died on me one day. The battery is good, I put it on a foot charger and it fired right up, and held starting charge for over a month. No issues there. I’m assuming it’s the alternator, but I’ve seen ...

Petros wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 9:50 pm

battmrown wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:44 pm
Could a bead of some RTV or something similar be used to seal that up fully?

yes, RTV works fine. easy to remove later too.

Would that be okay on the outside of the cam seal too? This is what I was referencing.

pulling the front cam bearing cap is an easy way to get the seal out. carefully wiggle it out, and the seal stays behind, and you can just lift it out. torque it down very carefully, the bolts go into the aluminum head. do not over tighten. front seals, crank or cam, can leak with a drip, or a torr...

Thanks, guys. Parts just came in, so I should have it put back together today or tomorrow. I'll report back with findings.

i pick up one of these seal pullers,,works great,,drill a couple of 1/16 holes in the seal,,screw the puller in to a hole,, a few slides with the weight and out pops the seal,,its just a small slide hammer puller Pretty cool gizmo ya got there. I ended up just popping the first bearing cap off and ...

it is really rare that the pan gasket will leak, more likely it is running down to the pan from somewhere else, and than runs around the pan gasket, dripping off of it and making it appear to be coming from the pan. Usually it is not. most likely cause in the front of the engine is the main seal, w...

it is really rare that the pan gasket will leak, more likely it is running down to the pan from somewhere else, and than runs around the pan gasket, dripping off of it and making it appear to be coming from the pan. Usually it is not. most likely cause in the front of the engine is the main seal, w...

Anybody know the location of the "four bracket bolts" referred in the FSM for the removal of the oil pan? Also, what stabilizer are they talking about?

teranfirbt wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 10:04 pm Nope, in order to get the pump off you have to remove the oil pan and the pickup.

That's what I thought. I'm gonna get the timing belt and pulley off today and see if I can see what shape the gasket is in. Luckily, I ain't going anywhere!

Is it possible to replace the oil pump gasket without fully dropping the oil pan? I've got some oil puking from that general vicinity, so I suspect crankshaft seal or oil pump gasket but haven't gotten all the way in there. Just wondering if it's possible.

I've got an '85 Land Cruiser that you can swap in '96-99 4runner arms for massive improvement. Might be worth scavenging some late 90s Corolla wiper arms from a junk yard to see if they fit. Toyota is pretty notorious for keeping some of those little things the same over generations and models so it...

I'm looking to replace the PCV ventilation hoses coming out of the top of the valve cover. Parts numbers 1226115020 and 1226215030. They're both NLA and I was looking for some advice as to what would be an acceptable substitute or what other folks have done to replace them. Thanks!

Shut 'er down, boys. Problem solved. Probably should have just consulted Google instead of clogging up the board. Thanks for your help, @BaileySims.