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Xirdneh, after your description there is no doubt in my mind that it was the reverse pin plug. I thought it was odd that the fill plug was too small to fit a finger in. It makes sense now why the linkage was messed up.

Thanks!

Hi petros, I have been backing the rear drain plug out 7.5 turns (top red circle in picture) but I'm not sure about the fill plug to check the level. The green circle is what I think the fill plug is. Do you know if that is correct? I forgot to mention, the picture is from the rear of the tranny loo...

Thanks for the replies xirdneh and petros. It's possible I took out the wrong plug. I've been filling it from the 24mm plug on the drivers side because it's easier to fit the bottle in. Then I remove what I believe is the actual fill plug to let any excess fluid drain. I'm attaching a pic of what I ...

It sounds like a clog or a weak pump. Since it's not overheating, you might check the EGR and VSV since those lower combustion temperatures (make sure you aren't running high temp plugs as well). It also might be worth temporarily setting the timing at 5 deg BTDC just to make sure that's not the cau...

I was changing the fluid with my manual transmission in neutral. While I was waiting on the excess fluid drain out of the fill plug, I decided to make sure my reverse light was working correctly since I recently replaced the switch. So I moved the shifter to reverse. Then once the excess fluid drain...

It took 2 afternoons. I probably spent about 3-4 hours taking the valves out and cleaning everything, then a few hours actually getting the head off and on. I got the gasket set for $65 from autozone and then I had to get some cleaner and a few other things, so the total was probably $80.

I used carb cleaner and a steel brush for the big stuff, then used a brass brush when I got close to the metal, then finally a nylon brush at the end.

Update: The problem was in fact carbon buildup. I pulled the head and cleaned the cylinders, head, valves, and replaced the valve seals. Total was under $100 and well worth it. The car is idling smooth, knock is gone, dieseling is gone, and compression is lower. Compression results Cylinder 1: 185 C...

Thank you LittleRed4wd. I was looking at the plastic-metal connection on this thing and I've decided another one will just be a future problem. I am going to attempt to make a metal one and if that doesn't work I'll put a manual 3-way switch inside the car next to where my future manual choke is goi...

Does anyone have an extra TVSV they are willing to sell? Mine is broke and I'm having a hard time finding one. Thanks!

Here are the 3A-C, 3E, and 3E-E vacuum diagrams from Chilton.

It has an intermittent knock which is why I did the compression test. Strange thing is that it runs smooth and quite after checking compression but then after a while begins to idle rough and the occasional knocking comes back. I'm doing a Seafoam treatment tomorrow so hopefully that helps.

I just had to change out the reverse switch on my transmission. You can test the connection at the tranny to see if it is the switch and move back through the circuit. There is a quick connect on the wire next to the transmission. Unplug that and see if the circuit is good when the car is in reverse...

I'm not sure if your engine is the same as mine, but I didn't have to remove any pulleys. There was a bolt on the PS pump that allows the whole thing to slide when you loosen it (I think it's in front near the top of the bracket). The AC belt has a pulley that is loosened by turning the bolt on top ...