EUREKA!
Installed the new (Reman) IIA distributor/vac advance module and whuddya know! Perfect timing at 4deg btdc, no hesitations, no skips or flutters in the timing light! Nice smooth accelleration all the way to 4k rpm (used to flat spot between 2k and 3k.) I'm not hearing any misses anymore, either. No run-ons, no hard starting when warm! YAY!!!
Turns out that the old distributor ohm'd out fine, but the rotor shaft had a serious wiggle in it. It probably wobbled .005" out of round. That is not good, as a rule.
Notes on the job:
1. Remanufactured distributors may have the alignment protrusion ground off the housing. Good ides to line up rotor position on new distributor before removing the old one. Would be even better idea to line up the TDC position for #1 and mark it on the dust cover inside the distributor cap.
2. The dust covers (there are 2) and the vacuum advance line hanger may not be on the new unit. Be sure to remove them from the old one and swap them over to the new one.
3. Mark the timing notch on the crank shaft pulley with some white out to help with seeing it when timing is being set.
I'll keep everyone posted with any mileage/performance improvements.
New to me 83 SR5 update and questions
I've got 3 dists...one in the car and 2 spares. All have shaft slop of a good amount.
I don't see any real flat spots...just some boost at around 3K.
Do have cold start problems...where it takes a while to get gas into the carb....after it sits 2 or more days. Poor idle. Mpg at 35 mixed last tank.
Has anyone put in new dist shaft bushing(s)? Is there a bushing? Adjusted the gap?
I don't see any real flat spots...just some boost at around 3K.
Do have cold start problems...where it takes a while to get gas into the carb....after it sits 2 or more days. Poor idle. Mpg at 35 mixed last tank.
Has anyone put in new dist shaft bushing(s)? Is there a bushing? Adjusted the gap?
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
I just looked back... Turns out that frying a wire is actually known as "Letting the smoke out" I thought it was just a funny thing to say lol.
Did it cure your putt-putting? Like the kind of thing my car was doing in the video I put up?
Did it cure your putt-putting? Like the kind of thing my car was doing in the video I put up?
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
Well, I actually heard a slight putt-putt today, and there is still a minor hesitation between 2k and 3k RPM, but my run-on has gone away and it starts a lot easier. I also put some nice Belden wires and some NGK V-Powers in. I'm thinking that maybe there are some wear (or burn) spots on some of the exhaust valves and every now and then they rotate just right and give me that feeling of compression loss and/or that putt-putt sound. I'm not about to rip the head apart for that, though. As long as I keep getting 26-28 mpg in town I'm happy with my Badd Turkle. I do plan on pulling and cleaning the EGR this fall. I'm sure that there is some carbon buildup in there. I also ned to replace all the exhaust, but that is not a major concern right now.
I'm thinking about painting it.....rattle can jobbie.... Maybe a military desert tan color and then a layer of clearcoat? Perhaps a two-tone job of OD Green below the black trim, and desert tan above it? Or the other way around with the wheels painted green? I want to do a color that will be cheap (hence the rattle can) and will not require me to remove all the light fixtures and trim pieces (hence the tan family) but will still be considered kinda tough (hence the military color palette.)
I'm thinking about painting it.....rattle can jobbie.... Maybe a military desert tan color and then a layer of clearcoat? Perhaps a two-tone job of OD Green below the black trim, and desert tan above it? Or the other way around with the wheels painted green? I want to do a color that will be cheap (hence the rattle can) and will not require me to remove all the light fixtures and trim pieces (hence the tan family) but will still be considered kinda tough (hence the military color palette.)
You will have much fun with the EGR...there a writeup on that.
Walfart sells some Krylon camoflauge paint in some neat colors.
It's the same stuff as their satin and flat paints.
Pretty durable (does not hold up to laquer thinner though) and if it gets messed up you can repaint an area without it showing much.
Don't try to clearcoat it though.
Walfart sells some Krylon camoflauge paint in some neat colors.
It's the same stuff as their satin and flat paints.
Pretty durable (does not hold up to laquer thinner though) and if it gets messed up you can repaint an area without it showing much.
Don't try to clearcoat it though.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
camo paint
I did most of mine with Parker's Duck boat paint.I believe Cabela's still sells it.I got mine at Sportsman's warehouse
Tonprep I used Bon Ami and Steel wool.A roller works good.Work in the shade.I think their colors are Marsh Grass and mud brown.2 qts is plenty for base color.1 qt for next .No shine.Have fun!kamiphloj
Tonprep I used Bon Ami and Steel wool.A roller works good.Work in the shade.I think their colors are Marsh Grass and mud brown.2 qts is plenty for base color.1 qt for next .No shine.Have fun!kamiphloj
Like my old Volvo 544 with 4wd.I seldom regret neversieze or threadlocker
"Ok Fast Eddie.....Lets play some pool."
I've decided to collect myself and approach this rationally and logically. I have been having more problems with plug fouling. Didn't look like wet fouling, looked more like dry sooty running-way-too-rich fouling. I went and took a compression test yesterday. I let the car idle in my driveway for about 20min, air cleaner cover off, holding the throttle at about 3k rpm for a good 5min. I also took notice of the proper operation of the choke plate pulloff (it's good.) When the fan turned off for the 2nd time I let the temp climb for about another 2 min then cut it and took out the plugs. They were dry fouled around the bases, but the electrodes were clean (surprisingly.) I then took my compression readings. I took a dry reading and then added about 1Tbsp of 5/30 oil (was all I had open) to the cylinder and read it again. All reading were done with air cleaner cover off and throttle held wide open and key held to 5 Mississippi. Every cylinder read 160psi +/-2 before the oil, and 170psi +/-2 after adding the oil (the +/-2 is due to the fact that I am using a $15 analog gauge from Harbor Freight, but all readings were right on the lines of 160 and 170 respectively.)
So all this tells me that my rings are leaking, a bit, but that they are all worn evenly and that extreme blow by is probably NOT what is fouling my plugs. Also, the little clue that my plugs were NOT fouled after I ran it with the air cleaner off leads me to believe that it is an air/fuel issue. Now the #1 suspect in my mind is MY OWN WORK on the carb rebuild that I did. While I had the air cleaner off I looked down the 2nd barrel while holding the throttle wide open. I did not see the butterfly plate open very much, if at all. Seemed like it barely budged, maybe 1/8 of an inch? I did this both with the engine running and with it off. Both times I didn't see much movement. Let it be known, that I had to drill out the screws on this shaft and re-tap them and align that plate by hand and use SS screws and locking hardware whe I rebuilt that carb 1yr ago. I suspect that plate is shifting and not opening, creating a lack of air, or "rich" condition which is causing the perceived lack of power and the dry fouling.
So here's the question to the group: Am I nuts? Anyone have anything else for me to check before I plunk down the $200 for a Holley Reman carb? I'd go "Veber" but we have all that emissions gobble-de-doo here in the PDX area.
I've decided to collect myself and approach this rationally and logically. I have been having more problems with plug fouling. Didn't look like wet fouling, looked more like dry sooty running-way-too-rich fouling. I went and took a compression test yesterday. I let the car idle in my driveway for about 20min, air cleaner cover off, holding the throttle at about 3k rpm for a good 5min. I also took notice of the proper operation of the choke plate pulloff (it's good.) When the fan turned off for the 2nd time I let the temp climb for about another 2 min then cut it and took out the plugs. They were dry fouled around the bases, but the electrodes were clean (surprisingly.) I then took my compression readings. I took a dry reading and then added about 1Tbsp of 5/30 oil (was all I had open) to the cylinder and read it again. All reading were done with air cleaner cover off and throttle held wide open and key held to 5 Mississippi. Every cylinder read 160psi +/-2 before the oil, and 170psi +/-2 after adding the oil (the +/-2 is due to the fact that I am using a $15 analog gauge from Harbor Freight, but all readings were right on the lines of 160 and 170 respectively.)
So all this tells me that my rings are leaking, a bit, but that they are all worn evenly and that extreme blow by is probably NOT what is fouling my plugs. Also, the little clue that my plugs were NOT fouled after I ran it with the air cleaner off leads me to believe that it is an air/fuel issue. Now the #1 suspect in my mind is MY OWN WORK on the carb rebuild that I did. While I had the air cleaner off I looked down the 2nd barrel while holding the throttle wide open. I did not see the butterfly plate open very much, if at all. Seemed like it barely budged, maybe 1/8 of an inch? I did this both with the engine running and with it off. Both times I didn't see much movement. Let it be known, that I had to drill out the screws on this shaft and re-tap them and align that plate by hand and use SS screws and locking hardware whe I rebuilt that carb 1yr ago. I suspect that plate is shifting and not opening, creating a lack of air, or "rich" condition which is causing the perceived lack of power and the dry fouling.
So here's the question to the group: Am I nuts? Anyone have anything else for me to check before I plunk down the $200 for a Holley Reman carb? I'd go "Veber" but we have all that emissions gobble-de-doo here in the PDX area.
-
Gasoline Fumes
- Highest Ranking Member
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- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:54 pm
- Location: New York State
The engine needs to be revved quite a bit for the secondary to open. It won't open at low engine speeds. Watch the linkage instead of the plate when doing this, you don't want your face over the carb if it decides to backfire.coltarms wrote:While I had the air cleaner off I looked down the 2nd barrel while holding the throttle wide open. I did not see the butterfly plate open very much, if at all. Seemed like it barely budged, maybe 1/8 of an inch? I did this both with the engine running and with it off. Both times I didn't see much movement.
I've noticed this myself...I think the car has to be moving for the secondary to open much....or at least the manifold has to be in a low vac state.Gasoline Fumes wrote: The engine needs to be revved quite a bit for the secondary to open. It won't open at low engine speeds. Watch the linkage instead of the plate when doing this, you don't want your face over the carb if it decides to backfire.
If the secondary doesn't open...I'd think you see a lean condition?
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
The secondary is vacuum operated. You won't see it open unless the throttle is 3/4 to the floor and the vacuum is above some value, probably 5" hg or more. If the plate doesn't open, it won't draw fuel so the air/fuel ratio doesn't change.
I had to fix the throttle plates on our Tercel too. I used grade 8 screws and locktited them in. Our original engine went 306k miles. I'm on a junkyard engine now. It had been rebuilt (bad rebuild at that) so I won't be using it long. Looking for a 4ac now.
I had to fix the throttle plates on our Tercel too. I used grade 8 screws and locktited them in. Our original engine went 306k miles. I'm on a junkyard engine now. It had been rebuilt (bad rebuild at that) so I won't be using it long. Looking for a 4ac now.