New to me 83 SR5 update and questions

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:35 pm

OK, so I just called a bunch of places in the area and no one will do the timing belt for less than $140, and that is just the belt itself. The best one was the guy who said it would cost $550 to do the belt, idler, waterpump, and seals, and maybe more if he had to replace all the valves and re-sleeve the cam (whatever that means) HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! I hung up laughing!

I haven't done this before, and am not familiar with this whole setup, but will someone please tell me why I can't just loosen the tensioner, remove the belt that is there, and install a new one? My current belt is functional, so all my timing adjustments must be ok, yah?

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 2:04 pm

coltarms wrote: OK, so I just called a bunch of places in the area and no one will do the timing belt for less than $140, and that is just the belt itself. The best one was the guy who said it would cost $550 to do the belt, idler, waterpump, and seals, and maybe more if he had to replace all the valves and re-sleeve the cam (whatever that means) HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! I hung up laughing!

I haven't done this before, and am not familiar with this whole setup, but will someone please tell me why I can't just loosen the tensioner, remove the belt that is there, and install a new one? My current belt is functional, so all my timing adjustments must be ok, yah?

Download the factory repair manual from our main page. If you don't know how to download it look in the 'Newbie notes and FAQ' thread in the 'General' part of the forum.

The factory repair manual will give you step by step instructions on how to do your timing belt. All you need is a basic metric wrench/rachet set and you can do this job yourself for the cost of the timing belt. It's a great way to get to know your car better.

If you have any problems with the job, ask here.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:58 pm

Just bought the new timing belt today. I'm a little nervous about putting it in, but I'm going to give it a shot. Wish me luck. Any pointers before I start?

Post by **Mattel** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:14 am

I Just got my timing belt done yesterday. The Mechanic said it was a good time to replace water pump and seals (that cost less than $10 US to buy) for the crank and something else really easily at the same time as the timing belt if it needs to be done.

Matt

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 2:51 pm

New timing belt is on. Test drive was successful. Surprising, the only thing that stumped me was trying to remember how to re-fill a coolant loop. HAHA! It's been literally YEARS since I've flushed and filled a radiator and that was on an 85 Accord. Does this coolant loop need to be bled out? I didn't see anything mentioned about it in the big manual, so I'm assuming not. Also, I went with a Propylene Glycol instead of the standard Ethylene Glycol. I like that it is a bit safer on the environment. Anyone know of any issues this would/could raise with the engine?

Pointers/Comments on the job:
Instead of the whole stuffing the cylinder full of rope approach, I used 2 bolts threaded into the crankshaft pulley (there are screw holes on the outer edges of the face of the pulley) and then used a small prybar to keep it from turning while I removed the nut and again while I tightened it. I didn not have to remove the valve cover gasket as the old belt was not broken. I just left the engine in gear and did not turn any thing while I did the job. The screws are the same thread size as the ones that hold those radiator holding brackers to the front grill. I would recommend going and getting some 1&1/2" long Grade 5 bolts though, as you'll be putting a lot of torque on 'em.

Next issue to tackle is the CB/Stereo. I'm replacing the factory two-unit radio and tape player setup with a new CD head unit a CB mounted-in-dash under it. Should be sweet..... Already got a Uniden 510e donated to the cause for free. Anyone have any suggestions for front and rear speakers? I'm going to be putting in an Amp/Sub in the rear, but it will be removable. I would like to stick with factory size speakers in the factory locations for the other 4. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Wed Oct 26, 2005 11:02 pm

Welp, my little Terc is officially a Hoopdee Ride! I just installed a new stereo (Pioneer DEH-2700) and 4 new speakers (GI Joes special No-Names.) It's nice to have music. These speakers will last me until I can afford decent ones. I also got the primary and remote lines run for the amp/sub (when I can afford that too....) All I need to do now is run the RCA for the pre-amp out, and I'll be ready. I did run all new speaker wire and install a reference ground cable for the amp as well as a secondary ground for the stereo. I hate alternator whine....

I haven't tackled the CB yet as I will have to fabricate a mount for that to be able to mount it in the dash. It's coming though. I'll put up pics when it's all done.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 12:00 am

Well, I had put her up for sale but I decided to keep her after all. I went down to Napa yesterday and ordered new (rebuilt) halfshafts and new front coil springs. The interesting part is going to be replacing the coilsprings with a strut that is extended. The strut cartridges are brand new and I really don't want to buy new ones.

I replaces ALL the vacuum line in the engine bay. I replaced all the check valves and the PCV valve and grommet. I adjusted the float in the carb and it now accelerates fairly smooth under low throttle. I went down and cleaned/degreased my engine and transmission. Got a bit of moisture in my distributor, but it's all dried out now. I set the timing to about 7deg BTDC (as I do have kinda low compression at 155psi.) Vacuum advance works, too! I sprayed a bunch of DeepCreep down the carb, following Typrus' method. I also did Typrus' little 50/50 Seafoam MMOIL treatment. I used a 99cent spraybottle instead of pouring it down the carb though. Cool smokeshow.... I poured the last 6oz of the mix into the gas tank. There's already a bottle of seafoam floating around the crankcase. She seems to run a little better now. I'm still of the mind that she needs an awful lot more work, but I've grown pretty attached to her.....

Current issues, big and small, I would love advice on....

1. Instrument panel does not completely light up Left side near the temp gauge and half the tach is dark with the lights on, turned up all the way.
2. Cat and muffler and all the rest of the exhaust needs to be replaced. Aftermarket choices? Performance? Prices?
3. Rear springs and shocks need to be replaced. I'd like to get 1/2" to 1" lift out of it. Anyone know where I can find the rear springs? Maybe a Corolla front? Spring spacers?

Post by **Mattel** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:56 am

For the exhaust, go a stainless steel system if you have the cash.

I'm looking at getting some Pedders (pedders.com.au) Rear Springs for mine they have a heavy duty set with a handy extra 1 inch lift coils, but I'm not sure if you have the pedders brand in the states?

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:40 am

I called a Pedders rep in Colorado Springs. The lifted rear springs are going to run $150 plus shipping from Australia. Kinda pricey.....

Looks like is gonna get spring boosters.....

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 12:14 am

Tonight I replaced the rear shocks. Much nicer ride now. Those factory shocks just didn't seem to have it anymore.....at 174k! I also "de-carbonized the engine using a mix of MMOil, Seafoam, and water. I killed the engine with the spray of that mixture, then proceded to adjust the valves. All were a little tight, but 2 exhaust valves were way way too tight. Retorqued the head bolts too. They were all fine. Next I changed the oil and filter, as it had been running with a can o' seafoam in it for about 3 weeks. Man did it come out black. Put in 3q Valvoline 10w40 and 1qt MMOil. After the oil change I decided to check the bolts on the intake/exhaust manifold as there was a lot of smoke that came out of that area as I was choking the engine with that snake-oil. This was my big find, and also leads to my question. 4 exhaust manifold bolts were loose by about 4 or 5 full turns. Also, the bolts on the headpipe flange were both loose by 3 or 4 turns. Tightened them all down to 18ftlb. Put the carb back in, hooked everything up, and fired her up. What a smoke show. I had tried this once before, but didn't use the water. The water seems to make all the difference. I'm sure someone thought my garage was on fire.... I brought her out and drive her hard for about 10mi, then just putted all around using lots of different throttle techniques. No more skip. No more stumble. I actually went up a hill on the highway in 5th gear and was able to GAIN speed all the way to 75mph. Usually I would barely hold 55 on that hill with the pedal floored.

So now my question. What is recommended for keeping these manifold bolts and headpipe bolts from backing out? Lockwashers? Threadlocker? Constant retightening would be a major pain.

I love my car again!

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 10:45 pm

Took her out over the Coast Range today, 70mi each way (with a trip into downtown Portland afterward.) Had her pegged hard up-hill and did 65+ downhill. End of the day fillup showed 197mi at 7.5gal. Freaking awesome. That stumble started to come back, at the end of the evening though. I wonder if that manifold started to work it's way loose again already?

Typrus/Shogun: Were you guys able to grind out the excess manifold material and port match it with something as simple as a Dremel or Drill? Or is the metal too hard for that? I'm guessing that the manifold gasket has been damaged and am going to replace it anyway....

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:37 pm

Recommended item is a die grinder, simply for speed of use. I used a 30 year old Dremel (lol) and some grinding stones (had to grind bits of a washer away to dislodge the melted aluminum) with good success untill I ran out of stones. I have to finish the head now.
Now for Shogun's bit!

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 5:37 am

I think maybe a steel cutter "blade" in the right shape would remove the alum without loading up....if you dipped it in kerosene or light oil now and then?

Think they call it a ball mill?

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 8:51 am

At work we use carbide burrs for this type of job. Need different burrs for steel vs for aluminum. For aluminum use burrs like these here http://www.carbidebur.com/nfburs/nfall.htm

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 12:23 am

I heard that the non-ferrous burs were very aggressive so I went with a double-cut ball instead. No clogging problems on aluminum. I used Walmart's "Supertech" fake WD-40 as a lube.

http://www.carbidebur.com/shapes/sdburs.htm

And using grease on stones can reduce the sticking of aluminum.