New to me 83 SR5 update and questions

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 9:01 pm

Update - New valve cover gasket installed. The inside of the valve cover was all sorts of nasty with the burnt-on-blackness. I didn't have the time to clean it though....bummer. For future reference, is that carbon buildup? Can I just spray that down with some B12? Also fixed my earl leak (that's how I say oil.) Turns out that the gasket for the drain plug isn't so robust anymore and needs to be tightened down an awful lot.

I do have a couple of questions now.

1. My 83 has 1 input on the cat, and 2 outputs. The main output goes to the muffler, and then there is a smaller output on the drivers side. This has a piece of pipe that runs into a hose, which I suspect would go to the EGR valve. The piece of pipe has a hole in it about 3 inches away from the cat. Anyone know what this piece of pipe is called?

2. Same car has instrument problems. Fuel gauge no workie. Any suggestions? I haven't had a chance to hit the fuse box yet, just figured I'd ask. The owners manual says that the same fuse that controls the fuel gauge also controls just about all the other instrument displays and they all work.

3. What happened to the downloadable maintenance manual? I can't seem to download it. I get the message that the file is corrupted. I have a lot of small questions that would be easily answered by that manual.

4. For the front struts, I believe mine are the non-cartridge type. I have read the writeups here about how to "repair" them but I did not see any definitive answer to the question of what fluid to put in, or what gaskets to replace, and with what to replace them. As far as upgrading them to the cartridge type, are the assemblies from the 86-87 a direct bolt-in to the 83?

Dave Santos
Hillsboro, OR
2000 Jeep TJ
1983 Tercel 4x4 SR5

brianp · Post by **brianp** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 9:09 pm

Well, I can help with #3; I put the manual on my webspace as well, so you can get it at:
<a href='http://web.engr.oregonstate.edu/~plettb/tercel.html' target='_blank'>http://web.engr.oregonstate.edu/~plettb/tercel.html</a>

-Brian Plett
McMinnville, OR

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:01 am

Ok, so according to the Napa website photos, that little pipe that comes off the cat is actually part of the cat. A new cat is about $150. JB Weld is about $5. Little piece of sheet metal, free.

Owning a Tercel wagon 4x4, priceless.

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 7:34 am

For #2, check the connector at the back of the car to make sure it is plugged in? I can't remember exatly where it is located, but roll the carpet back in the trunk area and you'll see either large rubber plugs, or a screw cover. One of them should have wires involved. Follow the wire right to the top of the tank (by removing the plug/cover), and also follow the wire within your car for a bit to make sure it is not damaged. Maybe the sender unit has failed also? I think you have to drop the tank to replace it, but its not that tough. Sorry I don't remember more details from when I replaced my tank.

For #4, yes, I believe that all the tercel 4x4 front struts are interchangeable. Both my 86 and 87 had the front strut assembly that had the replaceable insert.

2wagons · Post by **2wagons** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 7:57 am

In addition ot GTSSportcoupes' suggestion of checking the fuel tank connections, you can easily remove the sender from the tank without dropping the tank-pull back the carpet, pull back the rubber seal-don't tear it- take out the screws/bolts dont remember exactly- on the "cover plate" and arounnd the top of the sender and lift out the sender- careful to not bang it around. On my sender, there is a litlle metal box on top that you can gently pry open with a small screw driver, in the box there is a little peice of metal that slides along a coil. Mine had a hole worn in it that's why mine will only work from half-full to empty. Didn't try to rpalce it. Also like Coupe said it's easy to replace the oldoil filled struts with an insert- On my old 83 RIP

, I poured most of the oil out, cleaned it up and put in the new inserts. Of course you can rebuild them if you want.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:42 pm

Well, I now have the factory manual, thanks to BrianP. I downloaded it at work at 1.5MB per Second!!!!! Now I need to take it to Kinkos. I haven't gotten a chance to read all 885 pages yet, but I did go through the manual transaxle / transmission pages and was not able to find the gear ratios for all 6 tranny gears and the Diff gears. I have heard that the Diffs on the 83's are 3.73:1, but what are the transmission gear ratios? I'd like to know what the crawl ratio is....

Dave Santos

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Jun 30, 2005 6:01 pm

When pulling the sender out, it must be angled slightly to allow for the float to be removed from the tank.
Try filling your tank up to full then putting some Sea-Foam or Acetone in it and letting it sit for a while (a day or two if thats possible). That may dissolve any goop that may have developed on it.
I don't trust my guage. Neither sender gives an accurate readout so I go by odometer.

That tube goes up through a filter then into the engine compartment, and opens up behind the alternator and down a bit. At least the one on my 86 Fed version did. I omitted that feature when I went to the 84 Cal body, as I didn't want to mess with the cat.

I think cartridges will work fine for the struts. Anyone recommend a brand?

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 9:43 am

coltarms wrote: I have heard that the Diffs on the 83's are 3.73:1, but what are the transmission gear ratios? I'd like to know what the crawl ratio is....

You'll find the transmission ratios on the main page http://www.tercel4wd.com and download the Car and Driver review for the Tercel.

terceldude · Post by **terceldude** » Fri Jul 15, 2005 2:11 pm

brianp, on <a href='http://web.engr.oregonstate.edu/~plettb/tercel.html' target='_blank'>http://web.engr.oregonstate.edu/~plettb/tercel.html</a>, you want a name for your Tercel. How about the Toyota Hawk 4WD Wagon, according to:
<a href='http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=tercel' target='_blank'>http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=tercel</a>. How's that??

:rolleyes:

josha · Post by **josha** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 4:43 pm

for #1, that is called the converter air inlet pipe, its not part of the cat. I beleve the canester it goes to is not the egr valve, anyway its on the lower left side of the engine. the pipe supports are bolted to the trannie, and the canister is pretty low and about 4 to 5 inches in diameter, situated horizontally. the pourpouse of the canister, as I understand it, is to provide a one way valve and maby some sort of filter or something. with the negitive exhaust pulses, air is drawn into the catilitic converter from the pipe through the valve, it is used to aid in the catalitic process. on positive pulses, the one way valve prevents the back flow of exhaust. sometimes the valve / canister goes bad, wich you can tell by stuff splattering out of it, and also by the rubber connecting hose (if there is one) melting. anyway mine went bad, and my mecanic said it wasent essential so I just took it off and plugged the hole it came out of, I have had no trouble since. you may want to deal with it if you live in a state with emissions checks.

#4 I just replaced my front shocks and yes, if mine (an 87) is the same is yours, these were non cartrage type. a piston with oil holes slides in and out of the strut tube, locked at the top with a verry large threaded ring nut with an octagonal top. dont worry about rebuilding it, you can replace the piston with a new sealed cartrage ($40 each), you just take the old piston out, put some oil back into the tube and slide the new sealed cartrage in (they look quite different) and screw the ring nut on. you are sort of converting it to a cartrage type. the ring nut is a bitch, the manual calls for a special tool, but I used a really big adjustable wrench (bring the nut with you if you can get it off, I had to shop around for a wrench that would fit). it also says to tourque the nut, and I wonder how they expect you to do that when the toyota specific tool has its own handle!?!?

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 7:24 am

josha wrote:

#4 I just replaced my front shocks and yes, if mine (an 87) is the same is yours, these were non cartrage type. a piston with oil holes slides in and out of the strut tube, locked at the top with a verry large threaded ring nut with an octagonal top. dont worry about rebuilding it, you can replace the piston with a new sealed cartrage ($40 each), you just take the old piston out, put some oil back into the tube and slide the new sealed cartrage in (they look quite different) and screw the ring nut on. you are sort of converting it to a cartrage type. the ring nut is a bitch, the manual calls for a special tool, but I used a really big adjustable wrench (bring the nut with you if you can get it off, I had to shop around for a wrench that would fit). it also says to tourque the nut, and I wonder how they expect you to do that when the toyota specific tool has its own handle!?!?

The cartidge and non-rebuildable types are different beasts....????

<a href='http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php ... &f=7&t=806' target='_blank'>http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php ... 7&t=806</a>

"IF you have struts where the strut tube measures about 1 3/4" in OD...you have the non-rebuildable struts. The rebuildable types have a larger diameter tube."

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:27 pm

Ok, so I can't seem to find my other string, so here is the latest and greatest update. I passed emissions about a month or so ago. I get about 29mpg now, and tonight I did my front struts. I have an 83, and it seems to have the "thinner" strut housings. I was able to simply replace the cartridges. I can't believe how easy it was (very very dirty, though) and how much better it rides now. It no longer feels like driving a waterbed.

Next question, has anyone ever done their own valve adjustment? Any pointers? My engine is ticking sooooooo bad......

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 3:17 am

There's a witeup on doing the valves in the Repair section...but you also need a manual.

I couldn't find inserts for the thin strut tubes......

:blink: :blink: :blink: :blink:

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 9:03 am

I will find out the manufacturer when I get home and post it. They are just the el-cheapo inserts from Napa. Strange thing this morning, my front right wheel assembly has a strange rattle when I go over a speed bump. Sounds like somehting is loose and knocking around. I double checked all fasteners; 3 on the strut tower, 1 on the strut piston rod, 2 on the knuckle, and 4 lug nuts. Nothing was loose. I also know that I cranked down pretty well on that retaining nut that holds the strut cartridge in the tube, and yes I did remember to put in the centering washer/spacer.

Any suggestions?

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:24 pm

The strut inserts were the Monroe Sensatracs from Napa. I paid around $35 each. I still haven't looked into the knocking sound coming from the passenger side as i haven't been driving it much due to the timing belt, which is my next issue. My timing belt looks like it is about to die at any second. I am bringing it into a stealership either Thursday or Monday (I'm going hunting from Thursday night until Sunday night.) I've used this particular Toyota dealershop a couple of times on my old SW20 Deuce. They were ok, except for the time when they were trying to flush my coolant loop. Anyhoo, I am going to have the dealershop change the timing belt. I was thinking about asking them to advance the timing just a bit while they were doing this. Can anyone tell me whether or not I should, and why? Also, I am assuming that I will need to tell them to replace the water pump seal at the same time. I have already done the valve cover gasket, is there anything else I need to do when I do the timing belt?

Next issue; gas smell. I haven't looked into it yet, but I read all the writeups on the subject. What kind of fuel pump can anyone recommend? Is the el-cheapo mechanical pump from Napa good enough, or can anyone steer me in a better direction?

Upcoming issues:

Stereo/Speakers/Amp/Sub
Fog Lights
Safari Roof Rack
Swing-out Tire/Jerry can carrier
1 to 2 inch lift and tire/wheel replacement
BrushGuard with Winch Plate and 4kLB Warn
GTS Posi Rear Axle and 86-87 Terc Front Diff Swaps
Double size sunroof with M60-E3 (or Browning M2) on periscoping turret