Merrily we roll along, roll a... AHHHHH!!!!

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:14 am

Typrus wrote: Also, only lift the engine enough to get it out of the mounts before lowering it slightly back down then pulling forward. This will allow the input shaft to be pulled BEYOND the pressure plate! If you just try to keep pulling it up, you WILL break a finger or 2 on the pressure plate! Again, ask someone who knows!.... Times 2! lol...

......better check the input shaft to be sure it isn't bent?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 2:14 pm

Shaft is fine.
I tried, but even 20 PSI doesn't get me anywhere. I even tried blowing into the return line to pressurize the tank and blow it out but nothing happened. Sigh. lol

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:37 pm

I went back to the tabk itself (to alleviate fear of bursting lines) and pushed 40 PSI through. Cleared it up. When I pushed my long screwdriver through the fuel sender opening, the bottom felt smooth, so it must have been clogged by deposits.
I have to still get the timing fine-tuned, followed by the carb, but I was able to drive it a mile today. Timing was so wacked out that It would not rev above 4 graned and had no guts. Basically the effect of running hellishly rich.
I found a few hoses I didn't tighten right.. Guess that will happen for a while yet. Couldn't figure out why steam was coming out, then found I didn't tighten the heater hose right, so I cinched it up and the leak stopped.
Sooo... I guess I need to know how to properly do timing... Anyone here who can tell me?

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:19 am

* loosen the dist bolt

* adjust timing till it runs OK without pinging

* or set at 5 BTDC?

.........sounds like the ign timing was retarded...but make sure you know what a ping sounds like....

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:06 am

Well, I don't exactly know what ping sounds like, but I DO know what the engine normally sounds like. Any abnormal noises wll be noted and adjusted. I want to run a few degrees advanced, but not much. I'll be running Mobil 1 synh till I can afford Amsoil. Right now el-cheapo oil and Marvel Mystery Oil are in there to clean out any deposits.

Running with a 50-50 good-bad tank of gas won't help, but it will help keep me at a safe mark for ping.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:27 pm

AJSHGFDALILIHEWLIASRJHGALIREDHG!@!!!!!!

I start her up again, tweak my timing (had to remove the dist again and place it back in, timing was fully advanced in current place. I also borrowed a timing light. Got it to read 13 degrees at idle with all hoses plugged into the dist. I drive it. Hooray! I get .5 miles and turn around to head back to the driveway to tweak some more. I get halfway up the hill that is halfway there and the engine starts bucking, stalling, then just cuts out. I'm thinking "funny... whats with that?" Now it won't start. I wait 10 minutes then succeed in rolling another 20 feet, then it cuts again. This repeated till I got back. I'm thinking, what the hell is causing this?" So I disconnet the line and see it is now reading 20 degrees at idle. I think, Crap, must've reversed the vacuum advance. So I fix it and get it to 5 w/o and 13 with. It runs great again. It's been about a total 45 minutes of cooling and tweaking. So now I fire her up and drive her again. This time I get .5 miles overall before this happens.. WHAT THE BLOODY FRICK?!?!? I'm thinking to myself. So I sit there for a while before I'm able to roll it the .5 miles of slow downhill back to my driveway. I checked the belts, Re-checked the timing to make sure the dist didn't wiggle (had sis crank the starter for short intervals) and they both checked out. Then I realized that the block was giving off significant heat while the rad. was just a little too warm to touch. Please don't tell me my thermostat is fried.. Please tell me ANYTHING it could be but that.. It may be easy, but I just don't want to have to replace that damn thing AGAIN.
BTW, I quintiple checked for all fluids, and all were at good levels. No abnormal noise other than the time when it was dying.

HELP!!! PLEASE! I'm going out of my head!

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:45 pm

Typrus wrote: Well, I don't exactly know what ping sounds like, but I DO know what the engine normally sounds like.

Well, I think pinging sounds like if a chain was being wiggled. Something like that. You're lucky you got it started. When the guy replaced the engine on the '83 he couldn't get it started because of a bad fuel pump, broken bearing on the water pump (I still am suspicious why it was broken, maybe he dropped the engine or layed it hard down or something), and pouring gas into the carb throat to get fuel in there as well as he didn't get the rotor on the dist at the right place. After a few more days he got it to start and it runs rough and when he turned the heater on while we were on a test drive it stalled. Hehe... that surly won't happen to me this time around. Then when my dad wanted to drive it to work the battery cables were loose and was only able to get out of the driveway and then pushed it back. Then that same day he pays this 'mechanic' guy $50 to 'go over it' and that guy ended up revving it to 6.5k. Now that's cleaning the crap out of the carb.

I wasn't to happy about it. I have found out if you keep on trying and trying things work out at the end somehow.

Have you noticed any difference in how the '84 drives compare to the '86?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:07 pm

Crotch rocket in 1st. lol. Exaggeration obviously, but I still like it better. And I'm sure the new clutch helps.
I'm concerned that just trying new things will result in damage.
I forgot to mention that while tuning, I 15 to 45'd it in as high of a gear as it would actually accelerate in and caught a little pinging before fixng the issue. I now know the sound of evil... lol. Very very subtle, but noticable with the window down and no stereo installed.
I stopped trying.. FOR NOW. It was stressing me out, along with my 200 point Speech speech, my 100 point Bio thing (due tomarrow.. yikes) and my 150 point English report on Greek Gods. Bleh. I still very much want to know possibilities of issues, but for now I'll leave the baby in the drive.

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 2:44 am

I think it's that pesky gas supply problem.

Maybe you could ask Zeus for some help...no not Dr Seuss.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:33 am

You're lucky if it is just the thermostat, it's the cheapest part to replace. Someone at my work just had his water pump and thermostat changed and it still overheated, and it turned out that there was air trapped in the cooling system. That's unlikely to happen because it usually bleeds itself. I've always ran the engine with the rad cap off while squeezing the hoses, revving the engine and pouring in coolant as required, until I'm sure the coolant level isn't going down anymore. Some air bubbles always come up.

Is your cooling fan working? Mine quit the other day and I took that out and changed the brushes easily enough (brushes were $8 at an auto electrical place, and the only thing wrong with the motor, and for future reference rad fan motor brushes are the same size as blower motor brushes)

Without this board it wouldn't be fun to poke holes in your rad while installing the fan after fixing it and spend the next 3 hours soldering the hole with flux-core electronics solder and a 40 watt iron, which is exactly what I did. It's easier to do this if there's an existing lump of solder covering a hole that was made last year by the ill-fastened fan shroud vibrating against the core. In the event that you have to replace the fan, learn from my mistakes and remove the right headlight and the hood latch (7 bolts/screws total, 5 minute job) so the fan comes out easily.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 3:50 pm

Don't worry. I'm an expert rad fan puller.. lol.
I+ don't even want to friggin imagine changing the fuel lines right now. I seriously hope that it is tank related if anything fuel supplyrelated. Ugh..

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:57 pm

Typrus wrote: Crotch rocket in 1st. lol. Exaggeration obviously, but I still like it better. And I'm sure the new clutch helps.

See, I knew it'd be better, well you did. Oh, and about your new clutch, you lucky kid! Did you get a Beck Arnley unit? Hope you can get it running soon. I'm here waiting for the day (seems like never!) when I get to drive while MY dad is going to drive MY new '84 in which $200 were from MY pocket. My other 2 yr '83 project is hopefully going to have a lot of Beck Arnley parts because of their Limited Lifetime Warranty.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:21 pm

Err... Lemme see... Something Performance? Maybe Pro Performance?
Don't you love it when they do that?

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:53 pm

Of course (not really)! Well at least its not going to be sitting around so some jerk can do something to it. Now I can bug him to take me to the desert and do some drivin'. Kill switch is a must. You might want to find out what your clutch is.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Apr 14, 2005 9:54 pm

Clutch = NAPA Proven Performance

ITS FINALLY RUNNING! No help from anyone (at least in physical presence) and no formal education, and its done and running!!

Now I just need to do the little things...