Toga Hi volume oil pump?

gatemaster · Post by **gatemaster** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 8:22 pm

do any of you guys have any experience or are using a Toga hi volume oil pump for your terk? I have changed everything on my engine but the short block and it still makes a racket at certain rpm's, mostly around 3k. I thought it was the rocker arms but I have changed the rocker assembly, the cylinder head, and the cam. when I changed the head I checked to make sure that the valves or pistons weren't hitting. The other day I was coming home from work and it sounded like I was out of oil, but that was not the case. I don't hear much noise when the engine is cold, but when it warms up the noise gets worse. I tried listing with a homemade stethescope but cannot isolate it. Now when the engine warms up the oil light starts blinking while the car is idiling but goes away when I rev the engine but then the noise gets worse. Out of frustration I revved the engine up to 7k rpm just to see what would happen, but nothing broke. anyhow I am going to build another block (84 3AC) , the one that came out of the car originally and was considering the Toga hi volume oil pump. The current block was rebuilt from a 1980 1AC and never seemed to be right. just looking for some input before I buy the pump.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:15 am

I want to know too for my 84 build-up... I've heard good things in 4AGE's with them, and they are the same pump. Literally. Same part number for the Toga. But that doesn't mean anything for the C's.

I'd say clearing out the flashing in the oil return holes would be wise. The return looks big enough until you look inside. Most of it is blocked from casting flashing. I'd imagine a HV pump would load the head up if it didn't have good drain-back.

If anyone else has any other thoughts.... Thats 2 people who want to hear about it!

keith · Post by **keith** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:07 am

Noise and a blinking oil light, gets worse as engine warms up, indicates bad bearings on the bottom end. When the clearances get too large, the oil pump can't build up pressure. Typrus is right about making sure that all the oil you pump into the top end can drain back just as fast. I have seen people make this mistake.

Would a higher volume oil pump help your current situation, maybe. But if you go to that much trouble, why not rebuild the whole engine. If you use a high volume pump then, you may have issues if the oil passages won't pass that much oil. It may not hurt anything though, you'll just have more pump than you can use. It maybe like driving a thumbtack with a jack hammer.

gatemaster · Post by **gatemaster** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:21 pm

good point about the flashing in return holes. I drove the car today and then parked it. The oil light was on most of the way home (30 miles) and it sounds like a spun bearing on a rod. The toga pump was for the short block I am going to build. nothing beats building and installing an engine outside in a foot and a half of snow. we have had mild winters for the past few years and now this year I am getting buried. At least I have an engine stand.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:29 pm

I need money before my build can get started again. sigh....

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:07 pm

If your just going to build a stock engine with its 6K redline, it will be a little extreme to put in a high performance oil pump. I would do it if the price differance was negligable.

stock oil pumps tend to fail at 11,000RPM from what i have read.

what i say is build the new engine with some balls, to justify the high performance oil pump.

besides, these cars need more power.

do ARP studs, balance the crank, some bigger pistons, GZE rods, etc etc.