Questin about vac lines

[T-Bone]

I remember a while ago I was asking something about the vac lines and I was told to plug I think it was the line going to the vac switch A. I cant remember. I tried to find the link to it. I think by plugging that line it would help it idle better and accel better.

[ARCHINSTL]

Possibly it was a post of mine?
My problem (then and now) was with everything hooked up per Hoyle, I was getting auto-cycling of the RPMs, once they hit 2300, and then down to 1900 and then back up, ad infinitum. This made for awkward stop-and-go driving.
I still have not gotten an answer from the Mothership.
I resolved it by plugging the vac line to switch "A", but leaving it connected electrically, as it did no good by just unplugging the electrical connection (?).
The RPM cycling disappeared, and the only downside is that once the engine is warmed, the RPMs do not drop to quite where they should be between shifts, which is not a driveability problem, but, I suppose, wastes a bit of gas.

When all is plugged in, there is no cycling while the engine is cold, but cycling starts when the engine is warm. So - it must be tied in with the temp sensor, but I have not yet figured out the system - whether in the Deceleration or the Vapor system, as all of these parts are tied together, and also that a number of things happen in a number of systems at that 2300/1900 RPM mark.
Hope this helps.
Tom M.

[T-Bone]

i have a little bit of a rough idle, but when i want to accel. my car just bogs down if i give it to much gas. if i give it 3/4 for full throttle then it shutters and hesitates and stuff. almost like the choke is stuck or something. I replaced a lot of stuff, i put on a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. All new vac lines. New airfilter. New pcv valve and gasket. I also rebuilt the carb too. I just cant seem to find what the problem is. Oh, if there is no load on the engine it revs up just fine.