Timing belt replacement question...

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tercel4wdrules
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Timing belt replacement question...

Post by tercel4wdrules »

Even though most of the timing belt replacement procedure is pellucid, the only part I don't get is how to measure the timing belt deflection. How does one know when the timing belt tensioned correctly? This is one of my worries, as I need to prove that I can fix the car myself.

I also figured out that the PCV valve hose was leaking and was causing most of the rough idle as well. I need to replace it soon as well as the valve.
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2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
GTSSportCoupe
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Re: Timing belt replacement question...

Post by GTSSportCoupe »

tercel4wdrules wrote:Even though most of the timing belt replacement procedure is pellucid, the only part I don't get is how to measure the timing belt deflection. How does one know when the timing belt tensioned correctly? This is one of my worries, as I need to prove that I can fix the car myself.

I also figured out that the PCV valve hose was leaking and was causing most of the rough idle as well. I need to replace it soon as well as the valve.
Just buy a new timing belt tensioner spring. The spring will tighten the tensioner just right. Then torque down the tensioner. Has worked great for me on a number of toyota timing belt jobs I've done.
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tercel4wdrules
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Post by tercel4wdrules »

Cool! Thanks for the reply GTSSportCoupe!

The other question is what can one do to clean the timing belt area as it is probable that there is oil there?
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
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GTSSportCoupe
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Post by GTSSportCoupe »

tercel4wdrules wrote:Cool! Thanks for the reply GTSSportCoupe!

The other question is what can one do to clean the timing belt area as it is probable that there is oil there?
Just use some degreaser and a rag/brush. Just make sure not to get anything on the new belt. Also, I recommend putting antisieze compound on the crank pulley before you put it back on. will make things easier next time you have to take it apart.
Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
tercel4wdrules
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Post by tercel4wdrules »

Lemme see... what else... oh, about the camshaft oil seal and tightening the drive belts. I have most of the info about the replacement of the camshaft oil seal from another thread on the forums, but the part that is still unclear to me is whether liquid sealant is applied on all of the outer circumference or what?

This is a pretty basic question but how do you know when the drive belts have the correct tension? These look like they need to be replaced as well.

Thanks for the help...
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2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
takza
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Post by takza »

I used a small weight scale...drilled a hole in the corner of the top on it...made up a coat hanger "pull" to fit the belt and set it to the correct number of pounds.

You can just as easily use axle grease on the outside and definitely the inside...just get the seal in straight and not too far in....some have stops...some don't.
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keith
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Post by keith »

If you are going to replace the camshaft oil seal, you should do the crankshaft oil seal as well. Forget the FSM procedures on this one, it calls for pulling the oil pump, never again. just get a hook and pull the old seal out. Then use a slow drying sealant and push the new one in straight. Be sure to lubricate the inside rubber surface of the seal and the corresponding part of the crankshaft or the seal could curl. BTW, its more likely to curl if you pull the oil pump first. It curled on me the first time I did it by the FSM. I've never curled it my way, but it could happen.

Its easier to do the camshaft seal if you pull the cap off, but it can be done without pulling it off.
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