Stripped (Close to it) Transmission Filler Plug Problem

[ARCHINSTL]

OK -
The car is warmed up and on 4 jackstands to level it and the pan is there and my new proven pressurized filler is ready. I then remembered Sacwac's (?) advice about loosening the filler plugs before draining the oil.
Glad I did so - the idiot (s) in the state of ____ had pretty much rounded the flats on the plug at the back right of the extension, which the FSM avers is the only place to fill.
So -
1. Has anyone encountered this and how was the plug removal resolved?
2. Is it OK to drain from the 3 drain plugs and fill from the remaining 2 filler plugs, or is this really a no-no and one can fill only from the back right one? Or will oil not get into the extension?
I have Craftsman 24mm open, box, and sockets, but am kinda gunshy on the rest of the plugs. At least one of the other filler plugs looks kinda rounded as well.
3. How about one of the Vise-Grip Locking hex-grabbing special pliers for this purpose? The one of that type I have only goes to a 19mm opening (7L), and the one for larger is the Model 10L.

THANKS to all ! ! !
Tom M.

PS: WHY would Toyota use such soft metal on these difficult-to-access plugs - and not on the more accessible rear differential plugs? Because it did not want steel-into-aluminum? There must be another reason, but it is beyond me.

[takza]

The way I'm doing it now is to just put the front on ramps...drain it thru all 3 drains....put 4.1 qts in the filler hole by the axle.

Only problem with this method is that it doesn't drain quite as well.

I figure it's best to make it easy and to get new oil in it. I also clean the magnet pretty well and try to use a SMALL finger to get any solid stuff from around the hole inside. I used to be a proctologist? Just DON'T get a finger stuck...I'm not sure even the fire dept could save it.

You could drain it on the level...set the back down...fill from the front.

Don't blow that bottle up!

[kamiphloj]

I almost got where you are.The box end wrench has a generous lead in chamfer.Mines a craftsman,too.Sears was open.The chamfer either provides no help,or ramps you off.That hex on the plug is lo profile.I took the wrench to the belt saander and ground the chamfer off.I suppose a tittle wood wedge between the wrench and trans tunnel might maake the wrench stay down on the plug while you crack it loose.good luck,kamiphloj

[ARCHINSTL]

Well -
I had no problem with the 3 drain plugs or the 2 front filler plugs, so I (temporarily) abandoned the attempt on the "desired" filler plug.
I let it drain all night, and was rewarded with slightly less than 4 quarts, and the inside of the case seemed just kinda damp.
So I filled from the front plug, per takza's suggestion, and with my new pressurized bottle, the procedure took only a minute or two for all 4+ quarts.

My plan for the recalcitrant plug is to (eventually) file two new flats to accomodate a 22mm open end; hopefully, that will work - it's now a challenge. The "bad plug" is too rounded to use kamiphloj's technique, although I have used it in the past on things. WHY did/does Toyota use such low-profile plugs? What could be a reason? Is it the only car company that does?
Tom M.

PS: takza - my container runs 125psi, which is the limit my compressor can insert. Details soon....

[takza]

PS: takza - my container runs 125psi, which is the limit my compressor can insert. Details soon....

I'm guessing it's not plastic? Mine takes about 12 mins....air leaks and all....

I only use six point sockets or a box end wrench. Once someone takes a crescent or other poor fitting wrench to them...the trouble starts.

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, I tried kamiphloj's recommendation on the the modification of a box end. I was loathe to use it on my nice Craftsman 24mm, but, wonder of wonders, found a single cheapie at a garage sale the other day!

It worked like a champ! Just ground down the chamfer to where only the "whole" points can contact the shallow flats of the plug. I did not have to force a wedge between the body and the wrench, although that is certainly something to keep in mind. Still, I wonder why Toy (and others?) use such soft shallow-sided plugs...

I wish 6-point sockets were available for every size; however, even Craftsman does not have that option.
Thanks.
Tom M.

[kamiphloj]

High Five!!.Tell Typrus it is an old Smokey Yunick trick.kamiphloj

[takza]

Well, I tried kamiphloj's recommendation on the the modification of a box end. I was loathe to use it on my nice Craftsman 24mm, but, wonder of wonders, found a single cheapie at a garage sale the other day!

These people are your friend when it comes to not too often used hand tools?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/C ... pricetype=

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/C ... pricetype=

Your instructions: Once you order 1 time...you will receive a series of catalogs. Sale items will be in the catalog...often 2 different places. You can order online using the catalog numbers to get the best deals.

I like their assortments of stuff...roll pins...clips...washers...etc.

I recently bought a specific large box end at a tool place...made "somewhere"...then later I saw a whole set of large box ends at HF for about the same price as the 1 wrench...made in India. Just used one yesterday.

I have a boxed set of drills I bought maybe 10 years ago that are still going strong...good quality...made in India. Tools made in Taiwan or Japan are good. China?...not so sure.

Tools like Crescent wrenches and ViceGrips are best bought by the brand name????????? Tapping sets...buy the best?

[kamiphloj]

Also catalogues like Northern Hydrauics and equiptment,Enco,MSC,Graingers.
Ingersol-Rand impact socket sets are very reasonably priced,robust,and 6 points.For working on a terc,try to come up with a good quality 10,12,14 mm long combination wrench.Snap-on,proto,I like Armstrong.A couple of offset box wrenches back those up.They will break things loose,then the bargain tools might swing easier in shorter lengths.A good 1/4 drive socket set will handle the 10 and 12 mm sizes and torque values and are easy to use.10,12,and 14 mm swivel sockets and a long extesion for the 1/4 drive are handy.Mine is a Proto.Get the one in a plastic box kit.The cloth zipper case with elastic socket holders is a pain.And having a 10,12,and 14 comb wrench and two box wrenches to cover those sizes is a good thing to have in the spare tire well,along with a fanbelt.kamophloj

[deejay1272]

The way I'm doing it now is to just put the front on ramps...drain it thru all 3 drains....put 4.1 qts in the filler hole by the axle.

Newb question here: I'm curious to know if anyone has a trick to get the fluid into the tranny via the rear filler hole? I'm having difficulty planning exactly how I'll get the fluid into the tranny and rear diff once the car is up on jacks (I haven't tried yet, but I expect there to be problems with this since I'll be in a tight spot while performing the work).

Any words of wisdom or ideas for how to get the fluid from the bottle to the desired locations (for both tranny and rear diff)?

[ARCHINSTL]

I've been using a hand pump similar to this; tedious, but effective. There is one to fit quart bottles and one for gallon jugs.
I thnk most stores carry these. Mine was a quart version from O'Reilly for $6 last year.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... %7CGRP2035____
Just to reinforce - be certain the filler plugs are removable before draining!
Tom M.

[Petros]

there are a few options. Most auto parts stores sell inexpensive plastic oil pumps, hand operated, that are small enough to fit between the tranny and the tunnel. If the oil is cold it will be a slow process to pump 4 quarts of gear lube into the tranny. There are also pumps that can be attached to a drill to create an electric powered pump.

I bought a filler attachment that screws to the top of the lube container, and it has about 2 feet of clear flex tubing on it. I insert the end into the filler hole, and than hold the bottle up near the distributor from the engine compartment. Warm the lube up first so it flows better, with the attachment screwed to the bottle you can squeeze the bottle to speed up the process without as much worry that the tube will fall off the end of the Lube container. the attachment only cost a few $. You could also make due with a length of clear tube (it helps you see the lube is still flowing), put forced over the nozzle on the lube container is likely to fall off, even with a hose clamp. You do not have to lay under the car this way to get it full. I put a light under the car near the filler hole so I can watch from above to know when it is full.

Good luck.

[splatterdog]

Why not fill thru either of the two easier "fill" plugs. I have a hard time believing oil only flows one way thru our trans.

My next tranny splash, I will be trying thru the forward plugs. They are so much easier to access and gotta be spilled out of anyways. To verify oil is indeed going where it needs, I will close off the 7 turn plug and fill just till overflow, reopen 7 turn plug, and see if I observe a fluid drop in the trans. Fluid should find it's level.

[takza]

It's fairly simple...the trans contains 4.1 qts oil...you drain it all...you refill with 4.1 qts....so you don't NEED to watch the level at the rear plug when the car is level.

BEST? Drain it from all 3 plugs on the level...drop the back...fill from the front plug only...with the one plug OUT 7-8 turns...others snug. When filling from the front plug...front up...the oil goes in pretty fast.

EASIEST? Run the front up on ramps...drain...refill from front plug...don't get quite all the oil out.

I've used the qt plastic bottles with a length of hose...this can wear your hand out real fast doing 4 bottles...same with the hand pumps....the air assist refill jug I designed (with help from alien beings of advanced knowledge) works much better.

[dlb]

i don't understand. so there are 3 drain and 3 fill plugs. why so many? are there separate sets for the diff, transmission, and transfer cases (i'm just guessing what they could be for)? it sounds like they all share the same gear oil though. if this is the case, why bother draining from all 3 drain holes when it will all eventually come out of 1? will you get more crud out by draining from all 3?

but if this is the case, why are there 3 fill holes? if the chambers for the diff, tranny, and transfer case are all connected then filling from 1 hole would fill them all equally, right?