it's official: i am an idiot.
i was looking at the #4 cylinder thinking it was the #1 (hence the rotor appearing 180 degrees out). ignore my last 4 posts.
my timing is actually perfect, but the car still wont start.... so now i guess it comes down to either something with the carb or a vaccum problem.
it is still acting like it wants to start, and the plugs are still getting really oily.
any suggestions are welcome/appreciated. sorry if i am being annoying... i want this car to run like i know it can!
casey
Uneven Compression... any advice?
Put it back together and install new plugs and get some good gas into it.
Your compression readings do indicate bad rings but unless it has been ignored to the point of burning the valves you can revive it. Once it runs, add Forte internal engine cleaner. Do not drive it. Start and run at fast idle for 10-15 mins. Shut it down and drain. Install fresh oil and filter and restart. Japeneese engines run tight clearences,
Carbon build-up on the ring lands can cause the rings to stick. The Forte will wash a lot of it out and should restore the low compression and bring your high's back into line. Change your oil again in another thousand miles and do another treatment as above. Life should be good. Also, throw away your Haynes manual, they are written to cover too many models and often cause more confusion than anything else. Go by the factory manual. I had an 88 fwd (prior to my previous 86 or current 86) She burned a litre of oil in less than 1000km, after the treatment, didn't need to add any between oil changes.
Your compression readings do indicate bad rings but unless it has been ignored to the point of burning the valves you can revive it. Once it runs, add Forte internal engine cleaner. Do not drive it. Start and run at fast idle for 10-15 mins. Shut it down and drain. Install fresh oil and filter and restart. Japeneese engines run tight clearences,
Carbon build-up on the ring lands can cause the rings to stick. The Forte will wash a lot of it out and should restore the low compression and bring your high's back into line. Change your oil again in another thousand miles and do another treatment as above. Life should be good. Also, throw away your Haynes manual, they are written to cover too many models and often cause more confusion than anything else. Go by the factory manual. I had an 88 fwd (prior to my previous 86 or current 86) She burned a litre of oil in less than 1000km, after the treatment, didn't need to add any between oil changes.
A lot of engines have been messed with when all they needed was a good flush....and an effort to figure out why they gunked up in the first place.turtleman wrote:I had an 88 fwd (prior to my previous 86 or current 86) She burned a litre of oil in less than 1000km, after the treatment, didn't need to add any between oil changes.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Never heard of Forte... If you haven't either, you can always Use Sea-Foam or ATF. Sea-Foam and ATF would help a lot I'd imagine.
Not only does compression indicate either worn or sticky rings, but oily plugs do as well....
I don't remember... Did you check for strong spark?
Try this- go buy some Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone from your local hardware store. Pour a LITTLE bit down the carb. Maybe a table-spoons worth. Try to start it. If it stumbles, something is wrong with fuel supply. Or its just so dirty it takes something that volatle to fire it over. If it stumbles on a little bit of the MEK, double the amount of MEK then try again. If it stumbled before, it should try and run now. It might keep going, it might not. If it does, YAY! If it doesn't try a few more times. If it keeps stumbling then dying, I don't quite know what to say.
MEK is VERY volatile. I use it as a starter fluid in all my lawn implements. A little goes a good bit for the initial fire-up. Stuff burns God-aweful hot too. Be very careful with it. It can and will hurt you if you are overexposed or if a spark jumps at you. Thus- replace the cap after every time you pour.
Not only does compression indicate either worn or sticky rings, but oily plugs do as well....
I don't remember... Did you check for strong spark?
Try this- go buy some Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone from your local hardware store. Pour a LITTLE bit down the carb. Maybe a table-spoons worth. Try to start it. If it stumbles, something is wrong with fuel supply. Or its just so dirty it takes something that volatle to fire it over. If it stumbles on a little bit of the MEK, double the amount of MEK then try again. If it stumbled before, it should try and run now. It might keep going, it might not. If it does, YAY! If it doesn't try a few more times. If it keeps stumbling then dying, I don't quite know what to say.
MEK is VERY volatile. I use it as a starter fluid in all my lawn implements. A little goes a good bit for the initial fire-up. Stuff burns God-aweful hot too. Be very careful with it. It can and will hurt you if you are overexposed or if a spark jumps at you. Thus- replace the cap after every time you pour.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew