Heater Performance

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 1:33 am

OK - I know STL is not Bemidji - but I kinda have a special case. I was fortunate to have frostbite on a bunch of toes in Basic back in the '60s (the Army denied it, of course), and ever since some of the little guys can't take the cold for extended periods.
The heater warms up quickly, the actual heat is quite satisfactory, and the volume of air moved is excellent - the car has a very good heater.
However, when I have the control set on "Foot", air exits the appropriate vents, but a lot also comes out the 4 dash vents - the same situation exists when the control is moved to "Defrost" as well.
I tortured my bod into the positions necessary to adjust the various levers and wires near the steering column (not quite as simple as the wonderful FSM would have you believe), and they were pretty much OK, with nothing worn/bent/stretched/out of whack. Hint - a large mirror helps...
I had the '83 way back, but just cannot recall if it had a similar situation. The OM states that "...most of the air is directed to the foot/defroster...". Is this the case with everyone's as well? I'd certainly like to direct all of the air to the footwells when desired, as well as the defrosters when necessary. Is the only remedy to shut the dash vents to maximize flow to other areas? I know, it's hardly a "stretch" to reach them, but thought I'd ask...
Thanks,
Tom M.

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 4:33 am

I don't think I get much air from the vents when it's set to heat.

If it's adjusted using the wire cables...beleive I've been under there...they can slip as far as adjusted length...so they won't actuate the doors enough. Or a door could be messed up...or a duct out of place?

Not a lot of room under that dash though....

Do think I got under there one time and lubed the cables and everything else that moved and did some adjusting....also pullled the control panel...

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 10:57 pm

All 3 of our wagons have that issue, and my sis's 82 Corolla Tercel (MkI Terc essentially) has the same issue, just to a lesser extent.

Fingers · Post by **Fingers** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 10:10 pm

Did you just try closing off the vents? My vents will always blow air unless I close them. I just hate how the floor heat melts one foot while the others freeze. Maybe a diffuser or something?

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 10:28 pm

Yep - I just closed the dash vents to restrict the flow there.
I thought the system was misadjusted, but it's just less sophisticated than I remembered.
Tom M.

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 5:31 am

ARCHINSTL wrote:Yep - I just closed the dash vents to restrict the flow there.
I thought the system was misadjusted, but it's just less sophisticated than I remembered.
Tom M.

The cable that controls the door between vent and floor is misadjusted.

Move the lever...see which door is moving...adjust it fully one way or the other...adjust the cable end at the door so it is at the same extreme. Fixed?

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 6:44 am

I don't know if all the wagons are like mine with regards the cable adjustments, but I've always had a problem with the venting position adjustments going out of spec if I move the lever too fast while changing from one adjustment position to another.

OOPS! What I really meant, now that I think back on it (I've been careful for a long time, so no problems for years, literally), is that the round end of the cable jumped of the little 'pin' it slips over under the dash. Sorry for misleading...

MootsMan · Post by **MootsMan** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:03 am

My heat/air/vent system works the same way......or maybe I should say doesnt' "work" the same way. Sometimes my fan is slow to get going, and sometimes it just doesnt' come on at all, but usually after a few minutes, it will start cranking and eventually get up to full speed.

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 1:27 pm

takza -
I will fiddle with the linkage some more, but it seems/feels like there is just one flap which controls the flow to all vents. Can you actually see a vent flap in operation (internally)?
waynehoc -
I'm sure you checked this, but is the outer translucent cable casing fully secured in that blasted PITA casing clamp? It is hard to engage fully whilst pressing with fingers alone and impossible to get a tool up there to press with more authority. I noticed your situation when I thought it was in place.
MootsMan -
The motor's reticence in rotating (sorry) may be due to the lube being stiff when cold. One of my Morrises years ago had this symptom, and also my Dodge/Mitsu p'up had this on the speedo cable. They disappeared as the unit became warmer, whether from transference or from cable rotation in the latter.
Tom M.

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:14 pm

Your description seems to match my experience.

I always thought it was that way.

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Dec 30, 2005 7:39 am

IF my memory serves me well...I had similar problems (stiff & inaccurate heater controls) and was afraid that the heater controls on the dash face would break...so I took them loose from the dash checked and oiled everything...lubed the cables...adjusted the cables at the doors. Lubed the door pivots.

20W elect motor oil in the heater motor bearings? If I have one of those motors with a sealed bearing on the end opposite the output shaft...I drill a small hole...inject some oil...clean with alcohol...cover with duct tape.

All that said...I usually don't fix stuff in the winter...I TALK about fixing stuff.

hornett22 · Post by **hornett22** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:11 pm

i took the heater box apart under the dash.as i suspected,it had a mouse nest in it.heater core and AC evap were clogged full of crap.cleaned it all out the best i could and it's much better.i'm gonn go back in and make sure i didn't miss anything.