While reinstalling my camshaft I stripped two bearing cap bolt holes. I plan to install helicoils, but there are sleeves extending above the holes that get in the way.
I tried tapping through the sleeve, but the sleeve came off and is now stuck on the tap. I then tried removing the other sleeve, but it doesn't want to come out.
Are these sleeves necessary? I don't see them in any images in them in the official repair manual. If they're not necessary, is there a better way to remove them other than getting them stuck on a tap?
1984 SR5 3A engine
are bearing cap bolt hole sleeves necessary?
- splatterdog
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Re: are bearing cap bolt hole sleeves necessary?
I would never eliminate line up pins/sleeves. A blind hole puller is needed to pull tight ones. I would also suggest a Timesert over a helicoil. Way stronger and won't come out if you have to pull the bolt again. Hopefully an insert can be installed without drilling out the sleeve area.
If you end up eliminating them, I would suggest checking for butter smooth cam rotation(and no play) with no rockers installed, before final assembly.
If you end up eliminating them, I would suggest checking for butter smooth cam rotation(and no play) with no rockers installed, before final assembly.
- Petros
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Re: are bearing cap bolt hole sleeves necessary?
to remove them you need a sleeve puller tool, a local auto machine shop can likely help you with that. take the head in and have them remove the necessary sleeve.
I had the same thing happened, not on the actual cam cap bolt, but one of the three studs that holds down my valve cover got stripped (without it, oil leaks all over my engine compartment from the valve cover). I used a coil to fix it. Used loc-tight to hold it all together.
I think you can get by without the sleeve, it is there to keep the alignment of the cap with the cam bore in the head. You just have to make sure when you tighten the bolt that is is perfectly aligned, install it with the cam in place, and make sure you can rotate the cam as you tighten it down.
always hand tighten the bolts that go into an aluminum part, and use a torque wrench to tighten them. those only get like 6 ft lb as I recall, not much or you damage the threads (as you found out).
Good luck.
I had the same thing happened, not on the actual cam cap bolt, but one of the three studs that holds down my valve cover got stripped (without it, oil leaks all over my engine compartment from the valve cover). I used a coil to fix it. Used loc-tight to hold it all together.
I think you can get by without the sleeve, it is there to keep the alignment of the cap with the cam bore in the head. You just have to make sure when you tighten the bolt that is is perfectly aligned, install it with the cam in place, and make sure you can rotate the cam as you tighten it down.
always hand tighten the bolts that go into an aluminum part, and use a torque wrench to tighten them. those only get like 6 ft lb as I recall, not much or you damage the threads (as you found out).
Good luck.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
- splatterdog
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Re: are bearing cap bolt hole sleeves necessary?
Another threat to blind holes is puddled oil after bolt removal. The bolt cannot compress it so threads get pushed out.
Re: are bearing cap bolt hole sleeves necessary?
Thanks. I ended up taking the head back to the shop. They pulled the sleeves properly, had a spare sleeve for the one I messed up, put in the inserts, and installed the shaft and caps to the correct specs. All is well. Now the reassembly...