Another Seattle AL25 member
- helipilot77
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
So I have been daily driving my T4 lately and that seems to be the best way to find all of the problems. The front main seal was leaking so badly that I had to add oil twice a day. I went through a gallon in just two days. So replacing it became a priority. When I got it out I took a closer look at it. It was brittle and cracked. New one in and the leaking is greatly reduced. time will tell if it is completely fixed.
I also noticed that it was way down on power in comparison to the 83' T4 I used to own. So I figured I would adjust the timing. I used Keith's write-up in the repair guide section. What a great way to set the timing. I double checked it with the timing light when I was done and it was dead on! While I was reinstalling the plug wires in the cap I niticed the number 2 wire connector was recessed in the boot and was not making contact. So I carefully eased it out of the boot with some needle nose pliers and finished putting everything back together. I took it for. A test drive and it is now running like a totally different car. Awesome.
I also bought a 4000 lb WARN winch for the front. I am planning to build a bumper for it to go into. Has anyone else done this?
I also noticed that it was way down on power in comparison to the 83' T4 I used to own. So I figured I would adjust the timing. I used Keith's write-up in the repair guide section. What a great way to set the timing. I double checked it with the timing light when I was done and it was dead on! While I was reinstalling the plug wires in the cap I niticed the number 2 wire connector was recessed in the boot and was not making contact. So I carefully eased it out of the boot with some needle nose pliers and finished putting everything back together. I took it for. A test drive and it is now running like a totally different car. Awesome.
I also bought a 4000 lb WARN winch for the front. I am planning to build a bumper for it to go into. Has anyone else done this?
. / TOYOTA
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Did you figure out the 5th gear problem?
- helipilot77
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Nope. I need to drive it right now. After I finish putting the Diesel motor for my 4Runner back together I'll pull the transmission and see what the problem is.
Last edited by helipilot77 on Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
. / TOYOTA
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
If you actually plan to use that winch to get yourself unstuck, you're going to want something that is MORE than double your vehicle's loaded weight. Not sure what a T4WD weighs, but I can promise you it is over 2,300 lbs. dry.helipilot77 wrote:I also bought a 4000 lb WARN winch for the front.
You'd be better off with a winch rated to 6,000 lbs. or greater. The alternative is to use a snatch-block to double your line strength for every pull, but then your cable will only be half length, which can render it useless.
1975 Subaru SuperStar wagon
1984 Subaru Turbo-Traction wagon & hardtop
1987 Subaru RX 3-door
1987 Subaru RX Type-RA 3-door
1987 Toyota Tercel SR5 wagon
1999 Subaru Forester S
2002 Subaru WRX sedan
2019 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited
1984 Subaru Turbo-Traction wagon & hardtop
1987 Subaru RX 3-door
1987 Subaru RX Type-RA 3-door
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- ARCHINSTL
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Use of the Search feature revealed: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9950&p=73785#p73645helipilot77 wrote:I also bought a 4000 lb WARN winch for the front. I am planning to build a bumper for it to go into. Has anyone else done this?
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
- helipilot77
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Cool! I found that one also. Nice to see what others have done.
. / TOYOTA
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Not trying to teach the professor, but you want to double your line pull not your vehicles actual weight. Which works out to 1.576 of your actual vehicle weight.The Professor wrote:If you actually plan to use that winch to get yourself unstuck, you're going to want something that is MORE than double your vehicle's loaded weight. Not sure what a T4WD weighs, but I can promise you it is over 2,300 lbs. dry.helipilot77 wrote:I also bought a 4000 lb WARN winch for the front.
You'd be better off with a winch rated to 6,000 lbs. or greater. The alternative is to use a snatch-block to double your line strength for every pull, but then your cable will only be half length, which can render it useless.
My sunroof tercel weighs 2240lbs with me, a full set of tools, and a full tank of gas. At least that's what the dump scale tells me.
Line pull=weight(grade resistance+friction coefficient)
A completely vertical grade offers a grade resistance of 1 (however a winch should not be used over a 30% grade [.288 grade resistance] anything over that and a hoist should be used instead) Friction coefficient is .2 to .5
So assuming a maximum grade and a maximum friction coefficient your max line pull is 2240(.288+.5)=1765.12
Double that and you get 3530.24lbs. So unless you out weigh me by 300lbs and you like to take a spare engine with you a 4000lbs winch should be more than sufficient.
- BaileySims
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
WAGON MAFIA.
Blood, sweat and beers.
Blood, sweat and beers.
- helipilot77
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
I like to use a snatch block on every pull. It allows me to spool out more cable so that I can get down to the first wrap of cable which is what the winch rating is referring to when they advertise 4000 lbs. every additional layer of cable reduces leverage and pull capacity. This enables me to get closer to an 8000 lb. pull capacity any more than that and I risk tearing the car in half.The Professor wrote:If you actually plan to use that winch to get yourself unstuck, you're going to want something that is MORE than double your vehicle's loaded weight. Not sure what a T4WD weighs, but I can promise you it is over 2,300 lbs. dry.helipilot77 wrote:I also bought a 4000 lb WARN winch for the front.
You'd be better off with a winch rated to 6,000 lbs. or greater. The alternative is to use a snatch-block to double your line strength for every pull, but then your cable will only be half length, which can render it useless.
. / TOYOTA
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- helipilot77
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Today I removed the front fender that I had installed as a replacement to the damaged one. Once I got it off, cleaned up, scuffed and wiped down with mineral spirits I masked off the wheel arch trim and started to spray it with the 848 color spray paint I ordered. I used one can to put down two coats of base coat and one coat of clear. I was very impressed with results. For a rattle can it laid down almost as smooth and consistent as a spray gun. I bought the paint from automotivetouchup
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Last edited by helipilot77 on Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
. / TOYOTA
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Yikes, there are quite a few assumptions in that statement. But, I'll give it to you... I guess a 4,000 lb. winch is enough, if:timothygodden wrote:...winch should not be used over a 30% grade [.288 grade resistance] anything over that and a hoist should be used instead) Friction coefficient is .2 to .5
So assuming a maximum grade and a maximum friction coefficient your max line pull is 2240(.288+.5)=1765.12
Double that and you get 3530.24lbs. So unless you out weigh me by 300lbs and you like to take a spare engine with you a 4000lbs winch should be more than sufficient.
You only plan to get stuck on, or near, grades that are less than or equal to 30%.
You only plan to carry "gas and tools".
You always plan to have an overhead hoist nearby, should the grade be over 30%.
Your µ is always between 0.2-0.5.
In a perfect world, sure, a 4,000 lb. winch is more than adequate. Then again, I don't live in that world!
1975 Subaru SuperStar wagon
1984 Subaru Turbo-Traction wagon & hardtop
1987 Subaru RX 3-door
1987 Subaru RX Type-RA 3-door
1987 Toyota Tercel SR5 wagon
1999 Subaru Forester S
2002 Subaru WRX sedan
2019 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited
1984 Subaru Turbo-Traction wagon & hardtop
1987 Subaru RX 3-door
1987 Subaru RX Type-RA 3-door
1987 Toyota Tercel SR5 wagon
1999 Subaru Forester S
2002 Subaru WRX sedan
2019 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited
- helipilot77
- Top Notch Member
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
Well I always wheel with friends anyways. They pretty much take care of any miscalculations.
. / TOYOTA
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- helipilot77
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
My Toyota friend from England is in town, so he came over yesterday and helped me replace my rear wheel bearings. I have to say that it was a bigger job than I was expecting. I was planning to do the brakes as well since I was in there. I bought new wheel cylinders, drums, soft lines, hardware kits and shoes. When I looked at the old shoes next to the new Chinese shoes they had a smaller diameter which would have provided a 40% contact patch and would have been worn out in the middle by the time the edges were just being bedded in. They were 'Brake Best' shoes. What kind of shoes have you tried with good results? I'm going to return the shoes I got. I might just go get some from the dealership.
. / TOYOTA
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- Petros
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
rear braking power is not determined by the size of the surface contact patch, but by the diameter of the drum and the slave cylinder. all that means is it would wear out faster, but rear brakes tyically last 80 to 100 k miles anyway. I would not worry about it.
The rears never get very hot anyway, overheating would be an important issue since it could damage the lining. I always buy mine from Rockauto, but always from a reputable brand (not made in a communist factory if possible), and even the name brand stock is pretty inexpensive from Rockauto.
Front rotors and pads are the real critical brake items, that is why everyone on this list should do my front brake up grade over in the repair guides section if they want reliable and solid braking out of their Tercel.
The rears never get very hot anyway, overheating would be an important issue since it could damage the lining. I always buy mine from Rockauto, but always from a reputable brand (not made in a communist factory if possible), and even the name brand stock is pretty inexpensive from Rockauto.
Front rotors and pads are the real critical brake items, that is why everyone on this list should do my front brake up grade over in the repair guides section if they want reliable and solid braking out of their Tercel.
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'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
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- helipilot77
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- My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
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Re: Another Seattle AL25 member
I went ahead and ordered some genuine toyota shoes from the local dealership. Apparently I got the last ones in the U.S. I plan to do the front brakes with the late model vented parts as you have suggested. In fact it is the only part of my brake system left to do. I just really needed to do the wheel bearings and it seemed like a convenient time to do the brakes as well.
. / TOYOTA
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