seancromie wrote:do you have a link to he coils you used? i haven't had much luck other than king springs on eBay and thats a little more then I'm willing to spend..
I was able to find it all through rockauto
Springs for the front: MOOG CC254
Springs for the rear: MOOG CC247
Looks great Nick!
One thing Id like to add to this thread is a vibe that I'm getting on Accelleration from the front end. Sounds like maybe the axle shafts are out of balance? I know theres a rubber ring around the shaft that's worn out a bit. All of my securing bolts for the front end are torqued to spec. Not really sure where to go from here other than replacing that CV axle. Any ideas? Oh and my trans seals are leaking too. Trying not to drive her until the replacements come in. Still trying to source the little one for the 4wd shifter...although I'm not exactly sure how to replace that one. I saw someone used thread to close the gap around it. A bandaid is better than nothing!
T4WD augury?
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usually if one of the cv joints is worn it will cause a vibration, worse on acceleration in a turn to the side with the worn cv joint. you can check by hand, jack up the car and than rotate the outer cv joint back and forth, there should be little to no play in the joint.
if you have a leaky axle seal, that might indicated the outer diff bearing is wearing out, allow the axle stub to wobble too much and cause it to leak past the seal. This can also be a source of the vibration.
I have the same thing right now, and I replaced the cv axles (and all other worn suspension parts) but the vibration is still there, so I am thinking it is in the diff now. Will have to replace the whole assembly, or consider replacing the bearing in it, which means setting up the shims to reset the gear lash between the ring and pinion. I would rather just replace the whole assembly.
So first check the easy and less costly things: cv joints. Replace if bad. The seal might be just a coincidence (which go bad sometimes even with good diff bearings). if it is good, than see if there is any play in the axle stub where it plugs into the diff assembly. If so, you may need to replace the front diff assembly, if so be aware that there are two different front diff ratios for the manual trans Tercel, '83-84 has 3.73:1 and '85 and later has 4.1:1. so you either have to match it, or also replace the rear diff with the matching ratio.
there is no outer bearing on the diff,,the cast carrier is what supports the axle,, I must of lucked when I swap mine the bearing shims on the one I was putting on were the same thickness as my old one and I blued the teeth and had perfect mesh
I thought there was a bearing on each side of the diff assembly, it is what hold it in place. the rear has a big bearing on each side, I thought the front should too. if no bearings, what holds the diff "pumpkin" in place?
there is bearings to support the carrier same as the rear but the bore of the carrier is what supports the axle and it has no bearings,,that is what wore out on mine making the axle flop around
ARCHINSTL wrote:4WD Shifter Seal Info; XLNT step-by-step pictorial on replacing by dlb: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9701&hilit=4wd+seal xirdneh also has seal info in this thread.
usually if one of the cv joints is worn it will cause a vibration, worse on acceleration in a turn to the side with the worn cv joint. you can check by hand, jack up the car and than rotate the outer cv joint back and forth, there should be little to no play in the joint.
if you have a leaky axle seal, that might indicated the outer diff bearing is wearing out, allow the axle stub to wobble too much and cause it to leak past the seal. This can also be a source of the vibration.
I have the same thing right now, and I replaced the cv axles (and all other worn suspension parts) but the vibration is still there, so I am thinking it is in the diff now. Will have to replace the whole assembly, or consider replacing the bearing in it, which means setting up the shims to reset the gear lash between the ring and pinion. I would rather just replace the whole assembly.
So first check the easy and less costly things: cv joints. Replace if bad. The seal might be just a coincidence (which go bad sometimes even with good diff bearings). if it is good, than see if there is any play in the axle stub where it plugs into the diff assembly. If so, you may need to replace the front diff assembly, if so be aware that there are two different front diff ratios for the manual trans Tercel, '83-84 has 3.73:1 and '85 and later has 4.1:1. so you either have to match it, or also replace the rear diff with the matching ratio.
Thanks Petros, I hope its not the latter. Ill start digging around for a deal on front axles. If if continues to wobble, the integrity of whatever is carrying the axle will be damaged. Ive never messed with the internals of a diff. I'm also hoping that the seals were a result of the 280K on them and my monkey arms smacking the axles back in after the clutch job. We'll see.
ARCHINSTL wrote: ↑Tue May 16, 2017 10:35 am
4WD Shifter Seal Info; XLNT step-by-step pictorial on replacing by dlb: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9701&hilit=4wd+seal xirdneh also has seal info in this thread.
Just Saw this, thanks ARCHINSTL. I replace all the trans seals last night and for whatever reason I thought I had bought the 4wd shifter seal. Realized I was wrong after I removed the lever. So I did go the thread route and it is working like a champ. I raided my wifes craft dumpster and sourced some thick cotton thread. 10 turns wrapped on the interior of the washer and trans case. I tell you what, it sure is nice removing the cardboard from the driveway.
so I'm sure this question has been beaten like a dead horse. but can i use my stock replacement shocks with this lift setup? i just did shocks, strut inserts, and bushings all the way around. don't really want to spend a bunch more money than I have to.
Terrence The Turtle,
From what I recall the inserts and spring hats we used were MR2. I think you could fab up some poly spacers for the front on the cheap (conservative height) using the side Tercel had as a stencil. And I actually think I remember someone having the schematic or stencil in adobe format on here. I didn't end up going that route but I sourced some really strong HPDE for like 10$ at a specialty plastics distributor. I think it was scrap. You could then jam some cheap rubber spacers(again conservative height) on top of the rear coil springs. You would have to go with slightly longer shocks in the rear though. All in all DIY could be 3 hours of work and maybe 100$ I uploaded an image of the spacer type I used. Forgot the brand name. I had to shave one side flat and trim a few edges off. I run the MA700 air shocks in the rear $58 for the set. Nice to be able to adjust loads. Be aware that your handling will change. And if your sway bar bushings or the bar itself are shot it will be darty. Took some time to finesse out the handling. I do love the look of the car now. Especially with the ridiculous retreads and MR2 triangles. Good luck with the project and there are plenty of great people on here to help you along or to help find parts. I couldn't have done it without them.
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I'm in the process of doing this on my 89 Corolla All Trac and I have a question for anyone who can help, upon removal of the springs they appear the same height as the new ones? They seem a bit beefier but I'm wondering how much more it's gonna actually raise. Will it just sit higher on the new springs because they are stiffer? Because they are the same height as the old ones outside of the car. It's my first time doing a lift so I'm a newbie to this.
If the springs are stiffer they'll compress less than the stock ones when installed, giving you a slight lift. It likely won't be as much as stiffer and taller springs.