Another Seattle AL25 member

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Petros
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My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
Location: Arlington WA USA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by Petros » Mon Oct 24, 2016 3:08 pm

usually soaking it in penetrating oil and working it free is good enough. tough cases require dismantling it, not that big of a job. There is a thread in Repair guides that walks you though rebuilding a distributor.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

timothygodden
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:45 am
My tercel:: 84 tercel 4wd sr5 lifted, modified head, delta cam, 2" exhaust
Location: seattle wa

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by timothygodden » Mon Oct 24, 2016 3:20 pm

That sounds like your issue, I had a dizzy that the mechanical advance was broken and wouldn't advance, it did great at lower rpm but would get laggy if you tried to rev it.
Opposite of your problem and symptoms but the same logic. I would be surprised if that wasn't your issue

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helipilot77
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Mon Oct 24, 2016 9:49 pm

It was really jammed on there. I had to tear it down completely. It took tapping it off with a hammer. Once I got it off and put a little oil on the signal rotor shaft it slid back on and rotated nicely. I put it all back together. Hopefully I will have time to put it back on tomorrow.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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helipilot77
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Wed Oct 26, 2016 10:35 pm

I re-installed the distributor and timed it with only moderate improvement last night. She is still idling very rough and her exhaust smells horribly of unburned fuel.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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Petros
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My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
Location: Arlington WA USA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by Petros » Thu Oct 27, 2016 1:25 am

running rich is usually only from a few sources. check your fuel level through the viewing window on the carb, the float or needle valve in the float chamber on the carb might be bad. It will cause excess fuel in the carb.

Another source is a bad AAP diaphragm. Pull the vac line off for the AAP (on the front side of the carb, goes to the TVSV on the coolant outlet at the front of the head). If it is full of fuel, the AAP is bad, causing it to run rich. It sucks fuel into the intake manifold through the TVSV from the AAP. For now you can just cap off both ends of the vac line if it is bad. it will run fine after it warms up, it is only to provide extra fuel for acceleration when it is cold.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

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helipilot77
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Posts: 309
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:47 am

That is awesome advice Petros. I'm gonna try to look at those tonight.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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helipilot77
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Fri Nov 11, 2016 2:40 pm

I pulled my air cleaner off today to look at the carb. There wasn't any fuel in the vacuum line leading to the AAP off the TVSV, but capped both sides off anyways. I looked in the sight glass and the fuel was at the bottom of it.

Image

Maybe you guys could look at my vacuum lines and double check my work?

Image

I am also wondering if got the check valves installed the right way?

Here is the one behind the head that goes to the distributor vacuum advance.

Image

Here is the one between the valve cover and the carb.

Image

Here are the two in the front of the carb.

Image
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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helipilot77
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Fri Nov 11, 2016 8:43 pm

Just driving around today I think it is already running way better and not smelling of a rich fuel mixture. Time will tell if fuel economy has improved. I guess that means my AAP is bad.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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helipilot77
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Thu Dec 15, 2016 9:56 pm

Definitely was the AAP. It's running way better now and fuel economy has returned to normal. Does anyone have a fix for the AAP? It would be nice to have it working right now since it is so cold.
In other news I installed LED lights all around the exterior of the ride. Except for the turn signals. I will do them but need to add resistors to my flasher first so that I don't get hyper flash.

Image

Those are the trucklite LED headlights that are DOT approved.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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Petros
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Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:31 pm
My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
Location: Arlington WA USA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by Petros » Sun Dec 18, 2016 2:20 pm

it is an easy fix, you can remove the AAP cover without removing the carb from the engine. You will need a new diaphragm, I do not know if you can buy them separately or if you will have to buy a carb rebuild kit. Rockauto sometimes has carb kits for as cheap as $7.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

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helipilot77
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Posts: 309
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Sun Dec 18, 2016 9:43 pm

Petros wrote:it is an easy fix, you can remove the AAP cover without removing the carb from the engine. You will need a new diaphragm, I do not know if you can buy them separately or if you will have to buy a carb rebuild kit. Rockauto sometimes has carb kits for as cheap as $7.
Perfect! Thanks Petros!
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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helipilot77
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Posts: 309
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Tue Feb 21, 2017 7:10 am

This weekend I replaced my rear shocks. There had been a loud "clunk" coming from the rear passenger shock at every bump. I was surprised at how easy they were to change out. I used KYB's as replacements. Turns out the right rear shock top lower bushing was completely missing.
I also took some time and dedicated myself to replacing the blower motor with a wrecking yard replacement. Now that all the snow is melted I have heat.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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helipilot77
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Posts: 309
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Sun Mar 19, 2017 8:37 pm

This weekend I replaced the front suspension bushings with polyurethane replacements. I then replaced the ball joints. The one on the passenger side was totally hooped! Pretty sure the the passenger wheel bearing is going out too. It's started making noise last week. While I was in there I figured I'd do the wheel bearings too, but once I got the hub off and in the vice I couldn't figure out how to press out the bearing. I got the dust cover, seal and snap ring but figured I should start putting it back together in time to have it driving again for the week. I have a press and a three jaw puller. Is there a trick that I should know?
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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Petros
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Posts: 9511
Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:31 pm
My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
Location: Arlington WA USA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by Petros » Mon Mar 20, 2017 4:51 pm

you just have to do it in the right sequence, than it becomes obvious. No special tools, I did with large sockets as a driver and aluminum dowels, and a hammer. a press would be very nice.

from memory, first you drive out the hub and wheel flange (outward), than you can push out the inner bearing, and than the outer one the other direction. the difficult part is getting the inner bearing races out, some heat usually helps. I think once you get started, everything becomes obvious as you work your way though the assembly. I think the FSM covers the procedure in detail, with pictures of where to push on it.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

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helipilot77
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Posts: 309
Joined: Tue May 03, 2016 9:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 wagon
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Another Seattle AL25 member

Post by helipilot77 » Tue Mar 21, 2017 10:55 am

Yeah I was looking at those pages in the FSM and it showed where to push on it but it doesn't show how to hold it because at that point the darn brake dust shield is right in the way. Are you saying that I should be able to get it out just by clamping the the hub in the vise and driving it out with a hammer? I would have imagined that it would be pressed in more securely than that. Also when removing the bearing races do you recommend using a cut of disc in the same manner as on the rear wheel bearings? The manual shows an ultra low profile jaw puller to get behind the race to remove it. I have a bearing puller I could try.
. / TOYOTA
./_| |/|/ |]

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