Car is stalling at low RPM's

[gervin]

Basically my car will not idle. It takes awhile to start up, then I have to manually keep it running with the gas pedal or else if just dies. I have searched around the site and have come to the conclusion that it is probably a fuel problem. First thing I did was replace the fuel filter just because it is cheap and easy. Of course it didn't help the problem any. What steps do you suggest I take to locate the problem? Should I test and clean the fuel pump or go straight into trying to clean the Carb? Thanks in advance.

[Neu]

Well if I was you i'd make sure you put the carb on RIGHT. There's that thing piece of medal that holds all the vaccuum lines in place and whatnot..well I put that under my car and it definitely didn't run right.

[gervin]

Well if I was you i'd make sure you put the carb on RIGHT. There's that thing piece of medal that holds all the vaccuum lines in place and whatnot..well I put that under my car and it definitely didn't run right.

lol, I didn't install my carb. It was already on there.

[gatemaster]

Don't waste your time with the stock carb, it is a piece of junk. Install a weber you will be glad you did.

[takza]

Had this same thing with my OEM carb...it was a vac line OFF on the pass side of the carb.

[keith]

The first step is to check all the vacuum lines, Check first for splits and cracks, especially at the connections, then check for correct routing. That is where most problems are. Next would be a carburetor problem, either a leaking needle and seat causing too much fuel, or a blocked fuel passage in the idle circuit causing too little fuel. You can smell it if its too much fuel. If not that, then you will need to find and remove the plugs from the idle adjustment screws and try adjusting them.

[Don Jorgensen]

I had the same problem...the car would not idle. If you read my thread I went through a year of particular hell trying to figure this thing out. After a carb change, a carb rebuild, a total carb and all emissions and vac lines transplant..and finally a new rebuilt carb ...nothing changed. I had tested the fuel shut off solenoids several different ways and they all tested good. Turned out that when the engine was running there wasn't enough voltage going to the idle fuel shut off solenoid located near the throttle linkage pointing toward the firewall. I took it out and sawed off the business end...put it back on and problem solved, SERIOUSLY all I had to do then was adjust the idle and fast idle rpm.

[TuffGong]

Probably not it but make sure you check your main engine fuse. It could be something with the automatic choke not engaging due to a blown fuse.

[Petros]

I presume it is otherwise runs and is drivable, it just dies when you return it to an idle?

If so it is likely a vacuum leak, or an out of adjustment throttle plate or throttle cable. A plugged fuel filter will usually first cut out at full load/high speed (fuel starve at higher fuel flows). There are so many hoses and vacuum operated parts and do-dads the leak could almost be anywhere. Double check all your lines are connected (use a strong light to get a close look), and there are no obvious splits or cracked lines. I regularly go through this exercise every time I do major engine work since it is easy to crack a part or even an old brittle rubber hose when handling it.

Get it to run at a fast idle and then spray carb cleaner over various parts of the vac lines, components and manifold. If the engine slows when you spray it at one location, you have found where the leak is located. Consider the vac switch on the bottom of the air filter housing, the EGR valve and the components located on the right fender, these all use vac lines to operate them.

You can also use an unlit propane torch. You just allow the gas to leak out from the torch nozzle around various locations, when the engine speeds up you found the leak location.

Good luck.