Rear Brake Drum Pads/Cylindars

Iain · Post by **Iain** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:45 am

jammin, go to this site if you need any of it let me know. Or, click find a retailer for a store near you.

Click on toyota, go down to tercel wagon al2*, then select whatever...

ALTROM

The prices are CDN

jammin1911 · Post by **jammin1911** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:45 pm

Iain,
Thanks for the suggestion, but that place is even more expensive than the quotes that I already have.

Everything on the website you gave is about 5% more expensive than the quotes that I got.

Ah wells

Iain · Post by **Iain** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:57 pm

Oh well, just thought I'd mention them. The brake rotors they sell are Brembo blanks.

keith · Post by **keith** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:27 pm

I meant to ask this question earlier, how sure are you that you need new rear brakes. The rear shoes are really thin to begin with. I thought ours were worn out until I bought new shoes, the friction material on the new shoes was just as thin, and that was after 200k miles. Oil change places are famous for squirting a little oil on things in order to drum up some business. I think you'll find that if you do this, you wish you'd taken a wuppin instead. Fronts are easy, rears are a (you fill in the blank).

Iain · Post by **Iain** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:11 pm

keith wrote:Fronts are easy, rears are a (you fill in the blank).

PITA!

ie:

P.I.T.A.

ie:

Pain
In
The
A**

LOL

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:46 pm

Actually, as far as I am concerned - - -
There are two PITA facets about the rear brakes:
1. The installation of the springs, both return and (especially) hold-down. I suppose having the official TOY Tool would help, but I did not want to buy it. The "regular" spring tools one finds were of no help. I improvised using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a stout straight-blade driver, and a needle-nose pliers - again, a PITA, but do-able with patience and an appropriate vocabulary.

PLEASE NOTE that I would heartily recommend using safety glasses installing the hold-down springs; they are not a coil-type and can spring back quite forcefully - one hit my forehead, fortunately missing my eyes - I learned from this...
And another tip on the latter installation: If you are working outside, cover the wheel and yourself with a sheet (like a tent) in the event one flies off - it sounds weird, I know, but they are easy to lose in the grass and you can't buy just one spring...

2. The installation of the e-brake cable into the lever.

The installation of the steel lines into the cylinders and subsequent mounting of the latter is just a pita (lower case), though. Be sure to use quite a bit of regular plumber's Teflon tape on the bleeders - when you do the bleeding, it's surprising how much air can enter through the threads on the little buggers. And use the hi-temp grease on all of the fasteners and especially in the strut.

Note that if you use the excellent Autozone site for guidance, the return springs are different for the sedan and the wagons (correctly illustrated, though). Also, the hold-down springs in the illustrations are different from what I encountered (but the correct springs were in the kit I bought).
Tom M.

jammin1911 · Post by **jammin1911** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:49 pm

keith wrote:I meant to ask this question earlier, how sure are you that you need new rear brakes. The rear shoes are really thin to begin with. I thought ours were worn out until I bought new shoes, the friction material on the new shoes was just as thin, and that was after 200k miles. Oil change places are famous for squirting a little oil on things in order to drum up some business. I think you'll find that if you do this, you wish you'd taken a wuppin instead. Fronts are easy, rears are a (you fill in the blank).

you've probably got a good point, the place i went was sketchy as hell haha..

I should probably check on them.

Also about the shoes - I'm not sure what it should look like but they were very thin.

What are the chances that someone has a picture of what they should look like?

Now that you've said this, I'm really tempted to just wait until they stop working. Maybe I should check for myself - I've been naive and totally didn't even consider that this sketch bag place could have squired some oil on there.

Come to think of it, when he came to get me at the front he kept insisting that I come see it for myself which I thought was kind of weird at the time but didn't think much of it. I really didn't care to see them I just wanted my oil change haha.

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 2:30 am

As to a pix - see below.
The shoes, when new, should have a lining thickness of 4.0 mm and a minimum of 1.0 mm before replacement is necessary, per the FSM. Everything is new in the photo.
Another tip in drum removal, if recalcitrant; there are two small threaded holes in the drum - they will accept either M8 X 1.25 or 1/4x20 (I forget which, but probably the former). Thread them in and alternate tightening them a few turns. They will act as an extractor - sometimes the drums are kinda seized to the hub flange - another good place to use a smear of the hi-temp grease - or anti-seize stuff, as evident from the photo (note the two marks of the aforementioned drum holes at about 3 and 9 o'clock).

This also gives a good view of the infamous hold-down springs mentioned in an earlier post, with the blood removed.
Tom M.

jammin1911 · Post by **jammin1911** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:05 pm

blood removed, haha

i love it

thanks a lot for the photo, this helps for sure.

i dont know what i would do without you guys.