Drive belts...

[tercel4wdrules]

I have a question about the drive belt for the alternator/water pump/crank pulley... I bought a Goodyear Gatorback belt and I noticed it doesn't have the 3 teeth that the current belt has. Will this belt work? Otherwise, I'll return it and find one with the teeth.

I'm getting real close to getting this thing running... got the t-belt & tensioner, cam seal, valve cover gasket, 10 ft of 7/64" vacuum hose, MP grease, PCV valve & grommet, RTV sealant, PCV valve hose, radiator hoses, and some other stuff I can't even remember... now it's just a matter of putting it together... Oh yeah, and I also got a new timing belt guide and tensioner spring from the dealer.

I checked the sight glass on the current carb and I couldn't see fuel in there, but I did see what appeared to be oil residue inside. No wonder the thing runs like crap.

I also checked the number of notches remaining on the clutch adjusting unit and it looks like there are about 4 left with the pawl engaged.

[takza]

I have a question about the drive belt for the alternator/water pump/crank pulley... I bought a Goodyear Gatorback belt and I noticed it doesn't have the 3 teeth that the current belt has. Will this belt work? Otherwise, I'll return it and find one with the teeth.

I'm getting real close to getting this thing running... got the t-belt & tensioner, cam seal, valve cover gasket, 10 ft of 7/64" vacuum hose, MP grease, PCV valve & grommet, RTV sealant, PCV valve hose, radiator hoses, and some other stuff I can't even remember... now it's just a matter of putting it together... Oh yeah, and I also got a new timing belt guide and tensioner spring from the dealer.

I checked the sight glass on the current carb and I couldn't see fuel in there, but I did see what appeared to be oil residue inside. No wonder the thing runs like crap.

I also checked the number of notches remaining on the clutch adjusting unit and it looks like there are about 4 left with the pawl engaged.

You need a ribbed belt with a ribbed pulley?

Might spring for a new float and inlet valve?

I've been running mine with about 4 teeth engaged for around 35K miles....makes for a high sitting clutch though.

What will you use to set the belt tension?

[tercel4wdrules]

You need a ribbed belt with a ribbed pulley?

Might spring for a new float and inlet valve?

I've been running mine with about 4 teeth engaged for around 35K miles....makes for a high sitting clutch though.

What will you use to set the belt tension?

I guess I'll go to another parts store and see if they give me a belt with the teeth and I'll return the one that I have now.

New float and inlet valve... I dunno. I have a spare carb here that I'm going to try and put on and see if it'll run. I also bought new carb mounting gaskets, which are nothing more than some fancy cardboard with the openings for the carb, and you get this for the low, low, price of just $3.99. I plan to remove the EGR and clean it out while I'm at it and bought the gasket for it as well... $1.79 if I remember correctly.

Say, does anyone know how to free the carb after removing the four bolts? It looks like that EGR mounting bracket on the left will complicate things. Or once you remove the four mounting bolts, one just slides it to the right and up?

Which belt tension? The t-belt?

The 7/64" hose is a really tight fit. I'm afraid that when they become old and brittle and that when I remove them again, I'll tear all the ports off of the TVSV.

35k miles on a clutch with 4 teeth remaining? Sounds good for me. Mine has 35k... maybe it'll go for another round for at least that much with the current clutch? I'll have to go easy on it though. It does make the clutch pedal slightly higher than the brake with 4 teeth remaining.

I hope I'll be able to drive it soon, assuming I pass the law test next week. Been dreaming about it ever since I have joined the Yahoo groups... yeah, I know driving a Tercel isn't much excitement, but it looks like fun in its own way.

[takza]

Say, does anyone know how to free the carb after removing the four bolts? It looks like that EGR mounting bracket on the left will complicate things. Or once you remove the four mounting bolts, one just slides it to the right and up?

Which belt tension? The t-belt?

The 7/64" hose is a really tight fit. I'm afraid that when they become old and brittle and that when I remove them again, I'll tear all the ports off of the TVSV.

35k miles on a clutch with 4 teeth remaining? Sounds good for me. Mine has 35k... maybe it'll go for another round for at least that much with the current clutch? I'll have to go easy on it though. It does make the clutch pedal slightly higher than the brake with 4 teeth remaining.

I hope I'll be able to drive it soon, assuming I pass the law test next week. Been dreaming about it ever since I have joined the Yahoo groups... yeah, I know driving a Tercel isn't much excitement, but it looks like fun in its own way.

For T-belt tension...I used a garage sale scale I bought...drilled a hole in the square top and used some coat hanger wire to connect the top with the belt making something like a stirrup...about 10 lbs?

Be very careful with the TVSV...Toyota wants a bundle for one. The base will break loose and also the ports.

[ARCHINSTL]

When it is time to remove the hoses from the TVSV, maybe a good idea would be to just slice them off with an Exacto knife, making a longitudinal cut - at least that is what I plan to do.
My TVSV was $90 from Toy a year and a half ago - and I got a deal - I think the regular price then was about $108.
Tom M.

[tercel4wdrules]

I had a similar experience. One of the ports broke off the TVSV from a hose that had hardened. It had broken off before and then it was reattached with some kind of putty-like material. When I spotted the loose hose, it had come off with the port stuck inside the hose. It was the AAP hose.

I had to slice the fuel filter rubber hoses with a sharp blade when I took them off because they would not come off any other way. I will have to do the same when these become old to avoid breaking them off. The TVSV is a very fragile device.

Therefore, slicing the hoses sounds like a good idea to avoid a costly replacement...

[Typrus]

I think its something like 45lbs actually. (references FSM)
Old-belt 80+/- 20lbs, New belt- 125+/-25lbs. I was under. Way under.
So 60-100lbs for an old belt, 100-150lbs for a new belt. Thats on their
Nippondenso BTG-20 (95506-00020) or Borroughs No. BT-33-73F
Both those styles appear to pull up on a center section of the belt between 2 stationary parts of the tool. See page 789 (AC-10) of the FSM.

[tercel4wdrules]

Where can I find one of these: Nippondenso BTG-20 (95506-00020) or Borroughs No. BT-33-73F ??? Did you use one of these to check the tension, Typrus?

[keith]

I just tighten them till a one finger push moves the center of the belt on the longest leg about a 1/2" before pain sets in on the finger, and I have a little arthritis. Its worked for me for 40+ years now. Over tightening shortens the life of the belt, as does under tightening.

[Typrus]

Over tightening also shortens the life of the bearings of the component you're driving. Premature water pump failure is a big one. Too loose and you'll glaze the belts over, worsening the issue. Then you have to clean off you're pulleys before putting new belts in.

No, I didn't. I have no idea how tight mine are or are not. I've had to tighten up my P/S driver and my alternator driver because they were slipping.

Me? I go with the pinch-and-deflect method. I aim for about 1/2" deflection, just as keith describes, only I pinch and push/pull rather than pressure my joints. My back is already screwed up. Don't need wrist/finger problems.