New to me 83 SR5 update and questions

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 3:17 pm

I just received the Holley. It will be getting installed this weekend, unless I get to it sooner. Man, is it pretty. It's so shiny and clean and smooth. The mixture screw plug is drilled out and everything is supposedly fully adjusted. I'll let everyone know how it goes....

2manytoys4menow · Post by **2manytoys4menow** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:12 pm

so did you get your new carb on yet ? I have a reman carb that need's some tuning that you could come over and get . It's a freebie . I tried using a reman carb of a 4ac corolla but my terc wouldn't run right . Lucky for me I scored a almost new factory carb on a turc in the bone yard for $25.00 . It works awsome on my 84 . I'm thinking that 160 psi compression on your motor is pretty good . My 85 has 150,000 and I just put a rebuilt head on it and I'm at 170 psi . My 84 had the head milled a bit so it's about 180+ . I'm just on the other side of the river .

2manytoys4menow · Post by **2manytoys4menow** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:19 pm

man that was weird

. I posted up and then your replie came up . Hope it fixes your issues .

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:22 am

The Holley carb got installed this weekend. Huge difference! Idles smoothly, starts quickly when cold or warm, and runs smoothly all the way up to 4500 rpm, regardless of throttle position. No MPG specs yet.

Question: the mixture screw plug was drilled out. Holley claims that the carb is completely tuned at the factory, and should require virtually no adjustment. It seems to run ok. What would abe some indicators (other than poor MPG and failing emissions) of this mixture screw needing adjustment?

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 12:11 pm

A while back I posted that I replaced my alternator with one for a 3A. I believe that it has the same amperage rating (55 as per factory spec, but will double check it tonight) and it does have the built in regulator, but I had to change the pulley (from v-belt to serpintine.) I believe that the original v-belt pulley on the alternator was smaller than my re-used serpintine pulley and thus, the alternator is now not turning as fast as it needs to. Every time I start the car the charge light comes on and it won't go off until I rev the engine up to about 4krpm. Then it stays off until the next time I turn the car off and start it again. My e-brake light, which comes on when the charge light comes on, won't ever go completely off; it just stays dimly lit. I just had my battery tested and it is A-OK. 12.73v, 683CCA. The system shows 14v when running at idle. I don't notice any major RPM drop with accessories running, nor is there any whine coming out of the stereo. I talked with my local Napa-Man and his in-store tester wouldn't be able to test this theory as it only spins at speeds faster than idle. I'll be getting another alternator I guess.....

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:18 am

Some more reparis, some more questions.....

Repairs
-Replaced Alternator again. Life is good. I still have the questionable one, so if anyone wants one to rebuild let me know.R
-Replaced the thermostat, and fully flushed the coolant loop.
-Replaced HIC and PCV hoses.
-Replaced the valve seals.
-Built all new carb gaskets (3 total; 1 between the manifold and the heat shield, 1 between the heat shield and the spacer/heater plate, and 1 between the spacer/heater plate and the carb.
-Reset carb MAS to 3.5 turns out from closed and tuned carb as per FSM.
-Cleaned out my EGR with seafoam and a screwdriver (thanks Arch and Takza) and verified valve operation.

Results
No more cloud-o-smoke upon 1st startup of the day. The car ran on all 4 cylinders all day, too! Mid-throttle hesitation (likely EGR opening too much due to bad modulator) exhaust putt-putt (plug fouling due to low operating temp and leaky valve seals on cyls 3 and 4) and power loss (combination of both of the above) have not returned yet. Heater is working, and the car actually hits normal operating temp. All the electrical stuff is working great, too.

Questions/Issues
-EGR Modulator no workie. Apparently the EGR being full o' crap was acting as it's own modulator. Now it just opens up completely (High vacuum at 3000RPM) and kills the engine. Price for new seems to be about $75, so it's looking like the JY for me. Does the modulator off a 4AC work on the 3AC? Anything else I should check in regards to this issue? TVSV? O2?

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:51 am

coltarms wrote:Questions/Issues
-EGR Modulator no workie. Apparently the EGR being full o' crap was acting as it's own modulator. Now it just opens up completely (High vacuum at 3000RPM) and kills the engine. Price for new seems to be about $75, so it's looking like the JY for me. Does the modulator off a 4AC work on the 3AC? Anything else I should check in regards to this issue? TVSV? O2?

My EGR did the same thing...so I disabled it. Later, maybe 10K, I hooked it up again and things went just fine.

What I think I did was to take the modulator apart, clean the filter, and WD40 the hey out of it. Think the valves in there get stuck. This WD40 thing might also work with the carbon canister valves...though you don't want much WD40 in the charcoal.

Now have the EGR disabled again...since when I get it going...I see more carbon in the tailpipe for some reason.