weber carb questions

[Mickey_D]

That's odd, GF. I swear by them. I've had sets last longer than the engine (100,000+ miles on a set).

And I've put them through some pretty serious abuse (Jacob's electronics Omni Pack + offroad use in a high strung Isuzu Turbo engine) and found them to be excellent.

Sounds like maybe our engines just don't like them or something.

[gatemaster]

I don't remmember having seen a condensor on a distributer before that didn't have points, so I found it odd to see it on the outside of the tercel's.
After I replace it I will go test a set of boshe again. I think that the burnt
electrodes indicates a problem in the circuit that other plugs may manage to hide.

[Typrus]

Ummmmmm....... If you want to spend several hundred on a radiator?
The copper-tube ones that came factory out of all metal, copper and bronze, last for years and don't do a thing to the head.
Why are you passing an electric current through your coolant?

Ummmmmm.... Reactivity series.... Well, Copper is a better oxidizer than Iron or Aluminum which both serve better as reducers.... Though, if the radiator were to set up some sort of electrolitic series, it would not only exchange with the aluminum in the head, but also the iron in the block, though a bit faster on the aluminum side as it is higher on the reductive agent side.

Though...
(Fe2+)+(2e-)=Fe, with a Ea of -.44V.
(Al3+)+(3e-)=Al, with a Ea of -1.66V
(Cu+)+(e-)=Cu @ .52V

So actually, the only reaction that would self-energize would be the Copper to the Iron... The reaction energy comes to a negative for the Aluminum and Copper meaning energy must be input to create a reaction. Therefore, once again.... Why was a current passing through your coolant?

Well, if I remember my chem right....

[gatemaster]

thanks Typrus for the chemistry lesson. I have an all metal copper or brass
radiator from another tercel so I would rather not have to buy a new aluminum one.

[gatemaster]

Since I finished the weber install I thought I would update the results if anyone is interested. I did not use the heat plate that was under the original carb as it caused an obsruction in the flow path since the adapter is
completely open. I also cut out the seperation on the manifold since the adapter was open and did not seperate the primary from the secondary.
I used the throttle linkage from the original carb as someone else in this forum did (thanks for the idea). I have all the emissions connected for visual purposes since I have to get it tested. If it fails I will drill and tap a small hole in the adapter so the ecm can add air to the mixture. I took the car out for a test drive and can say wow what a difference in power. I will have to wait to see if the mpg improves.

[keith]

Typrus, I only know what I observed. I did not pass any current through the coolant.

[heykitch]

So what is the consensus recommendation for spark plugs for this engine?

[ARCHINSTL]

Well-
When I got my '86, I installed the least expensive Bosch Platinum (I think around $2.25 each), as I had no problems with them in other cars.
Later, in my shotgun approach and desperate attempt to get the thing running decently, I tried the least expensive NGK ($6.32/set), and was amazed at the results; not just a "I-spent-the-money-so-it-must-work" reaction, but truly a noticeable diference. Mind, not 25% more power or anything, but it did run smoother.
Members - and other Toy sites - made the claim for NGK and NipponDenso, and I was pretty dubious about the assertion that "Japanese engines needed Japanese plugs," but - it's apparently true - at least with our cars.
Tom M.

[heykitch]

Thanks for the reply.

Is there a particular NGK plug I should look for?

[keith]

I have found the Bosch +4 works particularly well on this engine. This was the first engine I used them in and the improvement in response and smoothness was so remarkable that I bought them for all my other vehicles, unfortunately I didn't get the same results on any of the others. I don't know why the Tercel responded so well to them and nothing else did. I tried Denso's and they only made the engine run worse.

When the head cracked and tiny amounts of antifreeze got into the combustion chamber, it would blow the tips off the Bosch's, It would also blow the tips off of other brands.

[Gasoline Fumes]

Is there a particular NGK plug I should look for?

PartsAmerica.com recommends the BPR5EY-11 or BPR5ES-11. The "Y" part number is a V-Power plug, probably a better plug at the same price. If you drive hard or have had any dieseling problems, I'd go with a slightly colder BPR6EY-11 plug.