I need some help here, guys. I'm missing one of the lug nut studs from the left rear wheel, plus I need to check my brakes anyway. I purchased the stud Saturday, but had no luck at all in removing the brake drum so I could get the stud in place. I looked at the FSM, tried to follow the directions there, but still had no luck. Any ideas or suggestions ?? I'm probably way older than most of y'all, but this is my first experience on really tackling a lot of different mechanical projects.
Thanks in advance,
MJ
Rear Brake Drums
Make sure your E-Brake is not on. It engages the drums. That's usually the first problem people run into. The other issue is the drum getting bound up on the bolts, I currently have this issue and would love to hear a solution.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
-
- Top Notch Member
- Posts: 478
- Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 9:11 am
- Location: White Bluff, TN ( Nashville area)
I tried the screwdrivers in the hole ( as directed in the FSM ) , after I found the hole, in the back of the backing plate......but that's like doing surgery in the dark. I tried prying it off with a screwdriver and hammer and crow bar (small version)....still nothing !
Emergency was not engaged, so that wasn't my problem.
Emergency was not engaged, so that wasn't my problem.
1984 Tercel 4wd Dlx. - 192K miles.
1985 Tercel 4wd SR5 - 185K miles (not running)
1986 Tercel 4wd Dlx - 210K miles (dd)
Only 3 to go for the whole set ! lol
1985 Tercel 4wd SR5 - 185K miles (not running)
1986 Tercel 4wd Dlx - 210K miles (dd)
Only 3 to go for the whole set ! lol
Back off the adjustment of the shoes, use a good penetrating fluid around the studs and the center hole and use jacking screws like Sacwac said. If I remember correctly the screws need to be an M8 X 1.25. As you are applying even torque to the jacking screws wack the drum with a mallet to set up a vibration to help break the rust bond. To keep this from happening again use a copper anti-sieze when reassembling. I use that stuff on just about anything that has the potential to rust together. It works great.
Don't hit it real hard with a metal hammer...can crack one...best bet is to hit some and pry at the same time...or use the bolts in the holes...might find they are 1/4-20. I couldn't find rear drums for less than $110 a pair new.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...

Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
