Trans leak from 4wd shifter

[Devin]

My transmission is leaking from the 4wd shifter. Not much but there is a little puddle. I looked at how to replace the gasket on my old trans but it looks a bear of a job. Is there a way to replace that seal without taking the transmisson apart? Or any other thoughts?

[Petros]

there are additives that soften and swell old seals to stop leaks like this. It will do that to all the seals, which if they are all old may not be a bad thing, but if they are in good shape it will shorten their life.

I have not looked close, it it seems to me that it should be easy to get to and remove the lever on the side of the trans for the 4wd, and once removed, the seal should be right under it. But I have never tried it.

[ARCHINSTL]

Member takza had a thread addressing this a few years ago - literally a thread...(he wrapped the shaft with twine and gooped it up with ___).
Mine leaked, but only a drop quite periodically. When I did the prop shaft and seal renewal last year I cleaned the area around the shaft quite well and used Penetrex black RTV around it. I honestly don't think I had occasion to engage the 4WD last Winter, and the area is still lube-free (at least the last time I looked).
Of course, if you actually use 4WD...
Tom M.

[takza]

Can be very difficult to get the arm off due to the pinch bolt that is used. Using heat might ruin the current seal. One member sawed the arm off and used another one after the seal was replaced. Some cotton thread wrapped around the shaft behind the arm helps to slow the flow. Easier to just put the car up on ramps at the front and top up the trans using the front filler hole? Mine dripped some but really wasn't an issue.

[ARCHINSTL]

I forgot about the pinch bolt. It is identical, albeit smaller, to the cotter (Brit-term; not a North American cotter pin) used on older Euro bicycles with steel cranks; it anchors the crank arm to the spindle. In this case it anchors the lever to the rod.
Toy has a special tool; having owned a bicycle shop from when this method of fixture was common I am familiar with the tools we used - none of which could be used here, unless the trans were removed from the car (simply not enough room).
Don't attempt to loosen it by removing the nut and pounding the cotter; it will only deform and you will be screwed. Believe me...
Tom M.

[larry mcgrath]

I just replaced this seal on my 4x4 sr5 last week. It wasnt hard. The bolt that holds the shift lever on is a tapered bolt,loosen the nut 2 full turns with a large punch and hammer give it afirm hit to break this tapered bolt loose from the linkage. I jacked up the traney and removed the mount to gain a little more axcess not a big deal. remove the linkage,their is a large thick washer that covers the seal,remove it to gain access to the seal. With a flat bladed screw driver slid between the shaft and seal pry the seal out. I bought the seal from toyoya $ 4.59 cheep. Clean up the recess that the seal sets in, put a little rtv on the seal and tap it back in the recess. Reinstal washer and linkage ,trany mount.this realy wasnt tough to do. Its nice not to have a puddle on the grague floor. make sure you check your trany fluid when your done. I hope this helps Larry:

[ARCHINSTL]

Wow! Thanks, Larry!
Make your post a separate one in the Repair Guides section: It merits a position there!
You're the first person to accomplish this - or at least report it.
Well, I guess the Toy cotter is much harder than the Brit/Euro cotters to which I was referring.
Tom M.