CV boot replacement questions

[shonuffisthemaster]

I have a couple questions regarding CV boot replacement. I'm getting some of those new axles from rockauto and would like to keep them running as long as possible, so I'm planning on boot replacement at the first signs of serious wear (got about a lifetime supply of boots on sale form rockauto:)

In the instructions that come with the kit, it says to only use high temp / high pressure, lithium grease with added molybdenum disulfide, is this the same as wheel bearing grease? I think I might have seen specific CV grease at the parts store, is there any difference? (the boots came with grease but its not much)

The instructions say not to use gasoline, kerosene, or parts cleaner to clean out the old grease, because it leaves a deposit that is not compatible with the grease. I've always used kerosene on my wheel bearings without any negative results, am I doing it wrong? Are CV joints different from wheel bearings in there sensitivity to lubricants?

Also, how would one clean it out without solvent? The instructions say wipe out as much as you can (already do this) and then use soap and water, but I can't really imagine that working too well, besides I have my parts cleaner hose with a brush etc. that make it easier to break the stuff up and get it in the nooks. How about using kerosene then washing it with soapy water? Or just use Kerosene and forget about it?

The clamps that come on a couple of the kits are the type with notches and a little "tensioner" section that you pinch with a crimpers, the instructions are not to descriptive, how do you get the thing to stay in place after you crimp it together, do you fold it over? It just doesn't seem like it would be very tight / secure.

Any other suggestions? I know I'm probably being over cautious, but I've never done it before and would hate for my nice new axles to fail pre-maturely.

Thanks

[takza]

It's hard to find info on it, but as far as I know it is a special type of grease that has a lighter viscosity than axle grease...and better lube qualities?

I think that with OEM axles/boots...the boots usually last about as long as the axles themselves? At least the axles in my Terc seemed to be OEM...axles got loose...boots OK.

I've always used gas to clean bearings...maybe they mean the liquid gas that doesn't always get removed after cleaning?

Sounds like you are rebooting old axles? I'd like to know what you find out...got some to do myself.

I guess you don't want to use too much grease...that can make the boots fail....because they are sealed.

I was thinking of buying a tub of full synth axle grease and using it.

[Petros]

CV grease in NOT axle grease, do not use axle grease. CV lube is a special very high pressure lubricant with additives that are not compatible with typical solvents. Most auto parts stores sells the CV grease in small tubes that are supposed to be the amount you use in one CV joint. If you replace the lube in all the CV joints you will need 4 tubes of the special lubricant. It is gray in color and very runny, not like grease at all.

If you had a damaged boot you have to get all of old lube out to get all of the sand and grit out of it. I do not see how wiping it out would work. I used Brake Parts Cleaner (MEK I think), it is not supposed to leave a residue, and then I blew it out with compressed air. The compressed air helps in blasting out all of the old grease too. That only works if you have an air compressor of course.

I would not use the clamps that require the crimp to keep it tight. With these you are supposed to use a special tool (that is quite expensive) to both tighten and crimp the band. There are other types of bands that do not require this tool, I suggest you purchase those (even if the crimp type come in the kit). One is like a large but thin hose clamp, there is also a ratcheting type metal clamp, kind of like the plastic zip-ties, and the ones I have used have a fastener that you fold over and lock the band in place. These are very inexpensive and worth buying the ones you do not need the special tool for since it is important you get these on tight and they do not work loose.

I do not think it necessary to regularly replace the grease in a CV joint like you do in wheel bearings. I have always understood this special grease should last as long as the axle, or at least as long as the boot. It is usually the boot that gives out first. Other than Armorall I do not know how else to protect the boot. If the boot gives out you have to replace it and the CV lube or you grind the CV away with road grit.

Good luck.

[keith]

Well an old hot rodding trick is to use any solvent you want, then do a final wash with Tide laundry detergent and water. I don't know why Tide and no other brand, but it was always Tide.

I have used regular Moly Lith EP NGLI 2 grease. It is a little thicker but it helps compensate for wear.

[shonuffisthemaster]

Thanks for the replies everyone, very helpful.

Takza, well I will probably replace my old torn boots this time and try and salvage the joints, but I am mostly thinking of my next purchase which will be some of those new (not re-manufactured) axles form rock auto. Normally I would just buy re-manufactured axles instead of re-booting them because they seem to last about as long as the boots do. But if I get the new ones I'd like to see how long I can keep them going.

About washing the old grease out, the instructions said that even the dried residue of gas, kerosene, etc. would leave an un-compatible film. I guess I'll take their word for it, but I don't see why I can't just wash the gas residue off with something else.

I don't know if its just Minnesota or what, but my boots seem to go about every 20K or so. I think the '81 I got from my mechanic had original axles, I'll ask him. The boots have been out for a while (he drove it with them torn) and the axles are still amazingly OK, a little clicking but nothing major. I would assume if you made boots that were too thick / durable they would be too inflexible, and would crack at the flex points.

Petros, thanks for the heads up on the grease. The boot kits did come with grease, it just didn't seem like it would be enough, I guess I'll see when I do it. I'm planning on keeping an eye on the boots, and replacing them at the first signs of serious wear, hopefully then I will not have a contamination problem if I catch them before they go. The break cleaner is also a good idea, I do have compressed air. I might just clean them with whatever first and then brake clean and blow them off (brake cleaner is expensive!).

Thankfully the crimp type clamps only came with two of the boots, all the others are the fold over type, so I'll just get some more of those, do they have them at the parts store, or would I have to order them?

Keith, I might try that, liquid tide I assume?

Again thanks for the advice everyone.

[Mac]

If i was going to regrease a CV joint, i'd use Redline grease

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_cool ... tegoryID=8

I replaced the CV boot on my friends X5, it came with a small tube of the CV grease, it was the same consistency as any other grease I've ever seen. After being in the CV joint for awhile it seems to go runny.

[keith]

eith, I might try that, liquid tide I assume?

OLD hot rodders trick, no liquid Tide back then.

[splatterdog]

The only way to get a joint 100% clean is to dissassemble it.

However, as I learned in my years of high volume/low dollar repair. If you reboot before or just after a rupture and there is no contamination you can just wipe off as much as you can. Then shoot the new grease thru the center hole until it pushes the old out thru the cage and balls. I have done well over a thousand boot jobs without any comebacks with that method.

As far as degreasing, I have had good luck with any of the purple degreasers in the gallon jugs. I've pulled junk off of new brake rotors even after a good brake cleaning. Just dry them quick as they are so clean they can flash rust in a hurry!

[keith]

kind of like the plastic zip-tie

I have even used those, on a quick boot for a temporary repair to an old car that was soon to go to the wreckers.

[shonuffisthemaster]

The only way to get a joint 100% clean is to dissassemble it.

Yeah, that's what I'd like to do, just catch it before it tears. Out of curiosity, I assume you need special tools / skill to disassemble CV joints and put them back together so they work?