Cold/Hot slider issues

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TooManyToyota's
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My tercel:: 1984 Tercel 4wd SR5, 1987 tercel 4wd 4a-fe swap
Location: Hudsonville MI
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Cold/Hot slider issues

Post by TooManyToyota's »

hello, I'm the owner a 1984 Sr5 tercel, and I currently have cold to lukewarm heat, the slider only moves about 3/4 of the way to hot and the mode select switch pulls it back over to cold when its pulled to the left, I currently have it apart and it seems that the metal wire that comes from the driver's side to the switch has been bent upwards and pulled closer to the switch causing the mode switch to catch, im wondering if someone pulled that wire in as some sort of mcgiver repair, also the cold hot switch is slightly bent from wrenching it over to hot so many times, is there a way to save my heat, ill get a pic if I can, its a really hard angle
Cars
1984 Tercel Sr5 4wd 6 speed Red/tan
1987 Tercel Sr5 4wd 6 speed Gold (4a-fe swapped)
1988 Camry Station wagon 5 speed (305k and climbing) (winter rig)
1989 Nissan Pulsar NX 5 speed (autocross rig)
1997 Pontiac Sunfire (Circle track car)
1991 Camry V6 wagon (Derby car)
1987 Celica Convertible 4 speed auto (for sale)
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NWMO
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Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 1:08 pm

Re: Cold/Hot slider issues

Post by NWMO »

The heat control slide feeds to a valve on the firewall that controls flow to the heater core. I had to repair mine, as it was broken.

Free up the cables and slides before putting back in.

Chris
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ARCHINSTL
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:52 pm
My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
Location: Kirkwood, a 'burb of St. Louis

Re: Cold/Hot slider issues

Post by ARCHINSTL »

Goldie's slider only moved the valve about 80% of the way, so my remedy was to unhook the end of the cable, and in the Spring (or thereabouts) manually close the valve all the way and then in the Fall (or thereabouts) manually open the valve all of the way.

OT, I know I mentioned it last Fall, but :o WHOOEE! :shock: , the 2014/16 vinegaring the radiator and 2016 of the heater core has made a tremendous difference in the heat output!
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
xirdneh
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Posts: 2121
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My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Re: Cold/Hot slider issues

Post by xirdneh »

lube the control valve (on fire wall) too
also if you hang cables vertically and drip lube on end it will work its way down

continued forcing of the heat/cold lever weaken (softens) the metal arm until it breaks
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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TooManyToyota's
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Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2017 2:54 pm
My tercel:: 1984 Tercel 4wd SR5, 1987 tercel 4wd 4a-fe swap
Location: Hudsonville MI
Contact:

Re: Cold/Hot slider issues

Post by TooManyToyota's »

thanks guys, I just traced the cable and found the control valve, I think for now ill just manually open it like arch until I come up with a more permanent soloution, I'm driving around my uninsured sv21 camry wagon because half my dash is taken apart, looks like somebody already tried to fix the cable, but it doesn't seem to even try to move the valve when I pull it
Cars
1984 Tercel Sr5 4wd 6 speed Red/tan
1987 Tercel Sr5 4wd 6 speed Gold (4a-fe swapped)
1988 Camry Station wagon 5 speed (305k and climbing) (winter rig)
1989 Nissan Pulsar NX 5 speed (autocross rig)
1997 Pontiac Sunfire (Circle track car)
1991 Camry V6 wagon (Derby car)
1987 Celica Convertible 4 speed auto (for sale)
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C130
Advanced Member
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2015 8:03 pm
My tercel:: 1984 SR5 280K Lift and 195 75 14.

Re: Cold/Hot slider issues

Post by C130 »

IMG_6428.JPG
I just replaced mine with one out of a DLX a few days ago. I swapped the valve as well because the one I had wasn't receptive to cleaning. It was still difficult to move. One thing to add is that the two arm that move to close doors in the system when set to "HOT" weren't closing all the way
To remedy this for the winter I set the control switch to full hot.
Checked the valve in the engine bay.
Removed the metal wire with spring end from actuator arm.
Moved the arm until It felt like the door was completely closed and re attached. Do this for both arms and Blammo a 20degree bump!

Theres another thread on this. I forgot who. Totally worth it.

Sorry about the image being rotated.
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