Found out Why my tranny would get stuck in 2nd gear

[xirdneh]

i took the tranny apart and found that the 1st/2nd gear shift hub was missing 2 of the 3 detents (aka shift keys)
how in the world it shifted at all is pretty amazing
sometimes i could feel a slight something while shifting into second but it was nothing
found a little bit of ground metal on the bottom inside of the tranny main case
nothing much had collected on the magnetic plug
none of the gears were damaged in any way
the only other thing i noticed was that the syncros were worn out
there is hardly any gap at all between the syncro ring and the gear
there again I had no problems shifting

[Petros]

are these the three tab like Chiclet inserts that are held into the hub with the one large snap ring? If those were missing why would it prevent it from shifting out of gear?

[xirdneh]

yes that was it but they had small coil springs under each of them
i have no idea why it would not come out of 2nd gear
i have noticed the detents will jump up onto the syncro if slightly over shifted
its hard to get the slider to move when that happens
not sure if that was it

[Petros]

I talked to a trans rebuilder about those tabs, they are there to hold he sleeve in place to keep it from popping out of gear (that is why it has the little coil spring under them). If all three are missing it would still go in and out of gear but might pop out when you let off the gas. He thought that if the syncro ring, that has three cutout to clear these tabs, if the syncro is allowed to clock around so it no longer aligns with the notch, it will not allow it to compress down against the little coil spring and it will not come out of gear. A worn out syncro can have so much clearnace, particluarly with two of the three tabs missing, it could allow it to slop around so the notch does not say in line with the tabs.

So I guess these tabs are important, and that the syncro stays in place so they can function properly. Interesting thing he said he has seen the wear surface of the sycros (the small ribs on the inner surface) so far worn they do not really function any more, yet the transmission seems to shift just fine without a lot of gear clashing.

[xirdneh]

interesting stuff
my wifes tercel comes out of 4th gear every now and then when you let off on the gas
been that way for ten years or so
i am curious to see whats going on in there
probably those keys (detents)
might have to pull it this summer to find out

[dlb]

good grief, with all this practice i bet you can get a trans in and out of a terc in 20 mins now.

plus i bet you look like this now.

[Petros]

I do not look like that by a long shot, but he would be handy to have around when I needed the trans hoisted back into the tunnel. the trans is bulky, hard to handle and quite heavy (I guess like him!).

I have managed to pull a trans out by myself in about 45 min, started with it up on jacks, and nothing fortunately got stuck. I was at a picknpull on a half price sale day, and it was only 50 min to closing time. I managed to get it out and up to the cash resister line before they closed the yard! You can move fast when there is motivation!

[Mark]

I look sort of like that (but with maybe a bit more bulk in the arms). I've removed 2 of the auto transmissions (and installed one) by myself. I'm definitely not strong enough to lift and position one in place while lying under the car. I used 2 car jacks and lots of pieces of wood stacked under it. It certainly took me more than 45 minutes. Most of my time was spent removing all the rusted and seized bolts of the components around it (exhaust, etc.).

[Petros]

I have actually managed to work out a system where I can get a whole trans (with front diff and bell housing on it) in the car by myself from under the car. another set of hands helps, last time I did it was in California on a Tercel4wd that was getting a new clutch and replacement transmission. It belonged to forum member Tercel4wdrules, and he was not much help because of his diminished physique. He even complained he should be hitting the gym more often, so now he is known as "bird legs" Tercel4wdrules until he adds some bulk to his diminutive arms and legs. (Carlos, your inspiration is that picture above, now start hitting that gym!).

I slide the trans into position under the car and lift the front end only as high as I can while laying under the car, and place a block of wood under the front. Than I lift the tail shaft housing and place as large a block under that end. At this point I can either use a long board to slide under the center of the trans and lever it up (this is where two people help, lone lifts the end of the board the other guides the input shaft into the clutch). It can be done alone however, lever it up as high as you can and slide another block under the lever, slide back under the car and align the input shaft into the back of the clutch. If I do not have extra help a small floor jack (the Toyota scissors jack even works) under the front half of the trans and lift it until I can guide the input shaft into the clutch, and I let it hang there (it is very precarious). I shove the trans forward, put the jack under the rear end (or as I usually do because it is faster, you can "muscle" the tail shaft end up in a scary and award bench press), pushing the trans forward to keep the input shaft in the clutch. As you lift the rear higher you can push it further into the clutch, once all the way up you can wiggle it around by hand while pushing forward on it. Usually if you can get the angle to match up you can push it all the way "home". Or at least until the last 1/2" or so. The most difficult part once it is up and hanging off the back of the engine, is to get the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bearing. but now the weight is up off the floor, so you can take the jack (or by hand) and get under it and push on the trans to get it to line up. once you have the gap even between the bell housing and the back of the engine all the way around, it usually can be wiggled the rest of the way forward. NEVER use the bolts to suck up the last 1/2-1/4" you WILL damage something important and expensive, it must be pushed all the way in by hand first.

in this way you never have to lift much more than about half the weight of the trans at once, the hardest part is getting the front end up on the first block. After that, it is easier to move around, and up into the tunnel. It does not take that much strength, but it does take some (more than "bird legs" Tercel4wdrules has anyway). I am still strong enough at my age, but not as strong as i used to be certainly. Once Carlos completes his weight training routine at the gym even he should be able to bench press the trans into place using one hand using this method, no jacks required! (unless of course your personal trainer is named "jack").

[Gottolovem]

I like to use a strap through the shifter hole and closed in the drivers door I loop it under the tranny then back up through the hole and through the passenger door when i pull the strap from passenger side it acts like a little pulley system and lifts the tranny up nice and easy. You still need to "stab" the pilot shaft to support the front as mentioned above when you get it where you like it close the passenger door on the strap to hold it then you can get under it and giggle it home without messing around with jacks and blocks in your way.

[Petros]

that is a great idea, you can even use a ratchet strap to lift it, than you do not need to close the door and you can fine adjust the tranny height. I might consider that next time I have to do this job. the darn worst part about pulling the trans or replacing the clutch is getting that heavy transaxle back up into the tunnel, get it all aligned and than pushed all the way into the pilot bearing.