Lifting a Terk?

[Typrus]

I dunno how much tougher treating them makes them, but it might make them good to 140ft/lb... Torque is the real tranny-bomber.
Gears, all shafts, and case.
I personally am of the belief that even having modern high-grade steel (or whatever is in there) gears cut would offer a significant increase. Aluminum, steel, Ti... They have all come a LOONG way in terms of quality control and forging methods since the early 80's.

[Soutthpaw]

I gotta disagree with you there, older drivetrains are generally far more durable than newer ones because they are constantly cutting corners for profit. that is why there is such demand for older parts, such as engines, trannys, Tx case and axles.

What kills the drivetrains is popping the clutch, a sudden engagement will tear up most stock trannys over time. I change parts weekly on all kinds of 4x4's that are torn up from sudden impacts and torque such as landing a jump or popping the clutch at high rpm. stripped ring an pinions, axles twisted in half trashed trannys and tx cases....

a bit of care and common sense go a long way.

[RabidHamster]

I gotta disagree with you there, older drivetrains are generally far more durable than newer ones because they are constantly cutting corners for profit. that is why there is such demand for older parts, such as engines, trannys, Tx case and axles.

What kills the drivetrains is popping the clutch, a sudden engagement will tear up most stock trannys over time. I change parts weekly on all kinds of 4x4's that are torn up from sudden impacts and torque such as landing a jump or popping the clutch at high rpm. stripped ring an pinions, axles twisted in half trashed trannys and tx cases....

a bit of care and common sense go a long way.

this was one of my thoughts

personally I'm thinking more of a ... handthrottle and modulating clutch and brake crawling method ... having atleast LSD's front and rear will help alot here too.

on the strength issues... this ofcourse is all custom work .. I was thinking along the lines of bracing the trans/diff housings to help with twisting of torque and shocking ... modding the diff casing to house the diff from a starlet GT (aka same as FWD tercle just factory LSD)... and if I remeber correctly the Auto 87+ tercel gear was 4.3XX .. anyone remeber the exact ratio of the corolla rear? I'll look it up in a few

Mind you I'm also looking into custom front axles too which would help with any fitment issues with the different axle

I dunno the whole graft in a "true" 4x4 Trans, Tcase and axles does sound very appealing... but I'd really like to see what the potenial for the stock style driveline is.. and exact what CAN fit ... and if (WHEN) I want more.. maybe I'll sell off my modded suspension/driveline


on a little side note though... I did remeber something.... 82 to 86 I think cressida wagon was a 4.1:1 solid axle and 4bolt wheel lug pattern.. still drums.. but WAY bigger drums then stock T4wd... and some had LSD in em(the 3rd gen supra LSD diff can be swapped in)

[Typrus]

The 4-bolt is a bigger spec than ours... 113.5x4 I think. Ours is 100x4. I know of what you speak, though the Cressida I tried to use the rims from had an independant rear... It was a 7MGE Cressi though... You'd have to find a 5MGE methinks.

Nonono Southpaw... I mean the metals have come a long way.. Not the trannies or who-ever... The METALS are stronger. Yes they do cut corners... They use thinner metal, thereby detracting its strength advantage. Have gears of the same dimensions cut from modern steel and you'll see more strength. Thats what I'm saying. Not use a modern drivetrain.

True enough that the sudden smashing of power will eat it up, but 2-3x the power it was built to withstand will eat it up pretty quick too.

20vTercel utilized custom-cut Bronze gears (Yes, Bronze) in his T4wd tranny equipped with a 202HP 20v Silvertop 4AGTE. He twisted the body before he shred the tranny. So, in that, I suppose it could be said that if you very very very gentle with it it MIGHT last.
20v's reason for Bronze was self-lubrication, and a softer metal, in case the gears DID grenade so they would be far less likely to fly through the tranny housing.

[RabidHamster]

yeah the 4m/5m cressida's were 4 bolt, the 7m ones were 5 bolt

but all wagons were straight axle

and a point that was brought up before the 4age I'm lookin at is 140hp (rated)... but driving waterpump, alternator, p/s pump, and hopefully an A/C pump ... probably be in the "kinda" safe 100hp range?

[Gasoline Fumes]

The 4-bolt is a bigger spec than ours... 113.5x4 I think.

114.3mm or 4.5"

[Soutthpaw]

I guess it is how much you want to spend... I like my cheap reliable tercel that has 4wd and if I am spending money on upgrades It will be on my F250.
I have found some rear springs that I think will work for the lift . need to take a strut off my parts car and see what I can find for the front springs

[Typrus]

Like an H2E combined with a Hypermax TaperCore utililizing Billet intake Plenums and a higher end transmission, such as the Brians Truck Shop E10D automatic in order to put no-slip power to the floor through the implanted Locker/Limited Slip or maybe Torsen differential all the while enjoying the note of your new 5inch- exhaust complemented by the Aeroturbine 5050 muffler to smooth the drone? Add a Tymar Intake system, Water/Meth injection and perhaps an economy-shot of Propane to boost fuel economy, and have a nice day! Maybe if you really want you could go with the HPOP mod to prevent melting down crucial parts on those high-EGT runs over I-70? Remember, don't sustain 1400 degrees on that Pyrometer for longer than 30 seconds unless you want your nice aluminum componants to turn to gush.
I'll shut up now......

[Soutthpaw]

on't sustain 1400 degrees on that Pyrometer for longer than 30 seconds unless you want your nice aluminum componants to turn to gush.

Boy you would need to be pretty bone headed to ever run over 1250* EGT pre turbo. that will kill your engine fast.
will do 4" exaust, chip it and intake mod, gauges and eventually a trans upgrade, that will be about all I need. as for propane there is no cost savings after you figure the cost of propane system and the gas itself... a good Intercooler can take the place of water injection. though I like the idea of using Free Veggie oil systems. until they get too popular and all the resturants start charging for the veggie oil

[Typrus]

Heh...
Always everywhere been told 1250 is a good cruising temp on an intercooled, post-99.5 7.3L
I dunno... DieselPower magazine's experiments showed a gain of 5 mpg in a Duramax. Seems like that'd make up for the cost of filling your propane tank every 2-3 tanks of diesel.

Oh well. That aside, the Dura is a different world from the Iron 7.3.

[Soutthpaw]

melting temps for aluminum is 1218F and 1375 will make mild steel glow red hot. I paid over $2 a gallon for propane last time I bought it for my shop heater. used to be under a $1 a gallon a few years ago. I think the biggest downside is you have to find a place for that huge propane tank. propane injection is much more popular on RV's for that very reason as well as they already have propane tanks anyway.
Diesel Power Magazine is great I got a subscription to it. If you are ever out in Los Angeles, Arrange to take a tour of Gale Banks' facilities. pretty cool setup there. they pretty much have the whole block to themselves.

[Ol' Lass]

that looks really good. those tires really make that look aggressive. i hope you have some good trails around you

[Typrus]

Look, terceldude... Our cars just can't handle that kind of power. I realize Nitrous has its pull to it, but without spending a whole lot of money to get a 3A engine to handle 160-200 horsies, its not realistic. HOWEVER, a simple 4AGE swap would be feasible. Yet you still have the issue of the transmission. I think the best options might include a 4Runner tranny and transfer case, mated to beefy front and rear axles with the appropriate frame reinforcement.

Heres something that you really ought to realize TD. For offroading and for turning bigger wheels, horsepower is not your niggest concern. Its torque. ft/lb, or nM, doesn't matter how you measure it. Torque is the actual working force of the engine. HP is just how quickly the torque is utilized, or put down to the ground. Ever wonder why Semi's go so slow up huge hills, but yet never stop? Its because they only have about 320 horsepower. But they have about 2-3000ft/lb of torque. Meaning that although they have a lot of working force, it can't be put down very quickly, so they slow down until they reach the balance.
In other words, the reason you want more HP to go fast is because the torque of the engine can be put to work far faster.

Understand what I'm saying? (Thats not an insult, I just am asking if you need clarification)

[Mcmattlds]

I just this and wanted to say I lifted my tercel with the same idea. I just made spacers about 1 3/4 in the front I basically used 2 extra strut mounts taking out the already ripped rubber inner mounts and took 1 3/4 thick metal to fill i...... on the rear i just took my springs in to the junk yard and found thicker ones ive also seen one with extra springs added inside the original ones ( of course smaller springs) then I found sumn mopar truck shocks that with a little time(metal insert spacer on the bottom mount part) easily made fit for further drop down on the rear diff..also I found a l8t 80s nissan bush guard if bent around right and drilling a 4 holes I could install it on the tercel..oh and a 2 gen 4runner center console does wonders int the tercel..

[dlb]

oh and a 2 gen 4runner center console does wonders int the tercel..

are you talking about the inclinometer/altimeter that mounts on the dash? how did you mount the 4runner one on the tercel dash? i've compared them before and they sit at different angles so i'm curious to see how you made it work. if you can upload pics that would be great.