A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

General discussion about our beloved Tercel 4WD cars
lucafusi
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A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by lucafusi »

Hey all,

I'm the beaming new owner of a 1984 4x4 SR5 (166k miles). It just showed up today, and I've taken her for a spin around the burbs, including some hills and highways. It's my first time with a carburated engine and certainly with driving a car this old, so I'm adjusting to the handling, but loving it so far. I bought myself a hobby, and it's time to dive in with some introductory work and maintenance.

I have zero mechanical background, but the time and inclination to get started (and a car that'll likely demand it before long). According to the FAQ, here's what I'm thinking for my introductory shotlist. If any of this stuff's been done super recently by the previous owner, with whom I'm still shoring up the sale, I may skip over it, but I think it's best that I go through the litany of basic mechanical work to learn by doing.

What I'm doing to develop basic familiarity:
  • I've got the owner's manual, which I'll be working through as some bedtime / bus-time reading over the next little while
  • I've got a big list of ChrisFix videos to slowly digest to help start to understand how the gnarly assemblage of parts that is A Car even comes together and works
Here's my other intro shotlist:
  • Replace air and fuel filters
  • Change oil / oil filter
  • Change coolant
  • Change spark plugs
  • Change transmission / differential oils
  • Inspect brake hoses
And some stuff I noticed off the bat that I'll want to diagnose:
  • I hold the gas pedal down for a couple of seconds with the car in neutral, then start it without a single foot on a pedal--was told this is the way you choke or prime a carburated engine, and that you don't need to have the clutch down. Seems to be working out. An afternoon's driving reveals the start to be anywhere from pretty quick to 3-4 seconds of chugging before it finally flips over. Is this about in the normal range or something worth checking out via replacing spark plugs or the like?
  • I really need a running start onto the highway and up hills in this guy! Spending a lot of time in 2nd / 3rd gear with my foot to the floor to approximate driving the way everyone else does around here and to keep pace with traffic. I know these cars aren't super powerful, and I'm okay with how it runs, but it's a little scary to have your foot to the floor in 3rd and the speedometer / RPM gauge going down as you head up a hill. Checking the threads around here tells me this is something I could probably tweak with adjusting timings and/or eventually a Weber carburator swap (which I'll save until I know what the fuck I'm doing)
  • The trip-ometer doesn't stick. Pushing the button resets it to 0, but it quickly rolls back to 4444 after a little bit of driving and doesn't work properly. Is this a tough mechanical fix to diagnose?
  • The brakes aren't really as snappy as I'd like.
Otherwise, everything seems to function so far.

Are part numbers for all of these pretty reasonably available on the forums? I'll admit to having not looked for them yet as I'm just starting the shopping list, so feel free to roast me there. Does this seem about right? Besides a compression kit (checking Amazon) and, I guess, some means of jacking the car up (which I don't have), I'm guessing I need a basic socket set to get started. Any recommendations?

Sorry for the really long post! Any help you guys can give is appreciated as I start down the roar with a car as old as I am..
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ARCHINSTL
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by ARCHINSTL »

Welcome to the Club!
Lots of helpful information here - particularly if you employ the Search feature...
Where are you located?
Interesting that the car will start without the clutch pedal being depressed; there is a lockout feature that prevents the starter from operating without the clutch being down all of the way.
Starting procedure is just depressing the accelerator pedal all the way, releasing (that sets the fast idle cam on the carb), depressing the clutch (or not?), turn the key. Once it starts, let it run for a few seconds and then tap the accelerator to disengage the fast idle cam. It should settle down to 8-900 RPM, although with perhaps a bit of loping until warm.

NOTE THE PROPER PROCEDURE FOR FILLING THE TRANS/DIFF!!! There are threads on this. Be certain to ensure the filler plugs can be removed before removing the drain plugs! These plugs are softish metal and many ham-handed peeps have rounded the flats over the 30+ years..

Many OE and AM part numbers are available in the Forum labeled just that in the Technical section.
Tom M.
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lucafusi
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by lucafusi »

Tom, thanks so much for the quick response!
ARCHINSTL wrote:Welcome to the Club!
Lots of helpful information here - particularly if you employ the Search feature...
Ha ha, of course. Lots to read about and I'll try to keep the questions to the bare minimum. As I'm starting from dead zero (don't even own a socket wrench), I just thought I'd poll the room about the barest of mechanical essentials for doing work. But that stuff's probably best left for an even less specialized forum..
ARCHINSTL wrote: Where are you located?
I'm right around Seattle, WA. Are there are any local Tercel enthusiast groups around here?
ARCHINSTL wrote: Interesting that the car will start without the clutch pedal being depressed; there is a lockout feature that prevents the starter from operating without the clutch being down all of the way.
Starting procedure is just depressing the accelerator pedal all the way, releasing (that sets the fast idle cam on the carb), depressing the clutch (or not?), turn the key. Once it starts, let it run for a few seconds and then tap the accelerator to disengage the fast idle cam. It should settle down to 8-900 RPM, although with perhaps a bit of loping until warm.
Roger that, my technique needs work. I was kinda shocked that it'd start without the clutch in, too, as that's what I'm used to from every manual car I've driven, but I gave it a go and it seems not to need it. I'll be doing it your way going forwards.
ARCHINSTL wrote: NOTE THE PROPER PROCEDURE FOR FILLING THE TRANS/DIFF!!! There are threads on this. Be certain to ensure the filler plugs can be removed before removing the drain plugs! These plugs are softish metal and many ham-handed peeps have rounded the flats.

Many OE and AM part numbers are available in the Forum labeled just that in the Technical section.
Tom M.
Cheers on the warnings here.
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by rer233 »

Clutch interlock feature didn't start 'till '86, so that part is normal.
if it aint there, there's a good chance it won't break!
83 SR5 Silver/Blue (Snowmobile/work beater)-totaled but drivable
85 SR5 Blue
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by Ridlbox »

rer233 wrote:Clutch interlock feature didn't start 'till '86, so that part is normal.
On my 84 I just use the key and turn it from outside the car no pedals required ever
i will find a tercel in a music video
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by dlb »

even on cars without the clutch safety switch, i think it's a good idea to depress the pedal when starting. less stuff for the starter to turn, and you're less likely to accidentally start it in gear and ram it into your garage door.

i find that i only have to step on the throttle once or twice before starting when the engine is cold. if it's warmed up and i have only stopped for 5 or 10 minutes, i find i don't need to give it any throttle before restarting. however, sometimes if it's been a bit longer than that but the engine is still warm, i need to tap the throttle slightly while turning the key in order for the engine to start quicker. that's the reality of carbs though, they are very sensitive to changes in temperatures. you just have to get used to what yours prefers for certain situations.

yes, these cars really are that much slower than new cars. expect to use 3rd gear and drive at 60-70 km/h up steep hills. i now drive a 4wd corolla wagon that has the EFI 4afe engine and it's still not much better -- engines have just come a long way in terms of power since the 80's and early 90's. but you might do a compression test and check your ignition timing since a problem with either of those would certainly cause a lack of power. you should also check all the other stuff (air and fuel filters, cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires) but hopefully the previous owner can tell you if that stuff has been done recently.
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by irowiki »

Welcome! I have too many, it is like an addiction.

The owner's manual specified two throttle presses to the floor when cold, or three when it is really cold, that's what I generally do.

When cold, you can let it sit on fast idle for a while to help it warm up. It should automatically release when warm. Fast idle is scary, factory spec is 3,000 RPM and it screams for a bit... but it is factory, so who knows? I usually adjust it down to 2-2.5k
but it's a little scary to have your foot to the floor in 3rd and the speedometer / RPM gauge going down as you head up a hill
Perfectly normal, and not something a weber will fix either. If you are used to driving ANYTHING from the 90's forward (with EFI) the power out of this car is going to disappoint you. Go a little slower up the hills and the car will thank you ;) My 92 Camry is so fun to drive in comparison!

My trip odometer in the 83 goes to like 4 or 9 miles then gets stuck. Haven't had a chance to pull it and see if it is something simple yet or not.

Check your pads and shoes. If they look good, your brakes probably need bled. It isn't too bad if you have the proper setup (ask if you want more info)

As dlb said, I've found replacing the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor to be a good first step on restoring some runnability.
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by ARCHINSTL »

rer233 wrote:Clutch interlock feature didn't start 'till '86, so that part is normal.
Ahhh - while I owned a new '83 in late '82 - I'd forgotten that... :oops:
Tom M.
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by Petros »

welcome to the forum,

all good answers here, once you do a good tune up and set the timing to 10 deg BTDC, look for vacuum leaks and misrouted vac lines, you may find your power and throttle response is not too bad, once you get used to it. If it still seems excessively slow on acceleration you might do a compression check just to make sure you have reasonable compression. Also, read up on checking that the AAP is working (you just pull off teh vac line and look for fuel in the line, there should not be any). If that is leaky it will be down on power, and get bad fuel economy. Than see if the catalytic converter is not plugged up. And none of your brakes are draging.

If in a good stat of tune, and all systems are operating normally, you will find the stock carb is actually fairly responsive and operates well in all conditions, except on start up in very cold and very hot conditions (after warm up it is back to normal).

Somewhere I made a list of recommened tools to work on the Tercel. If you can not find it, let me know and I will list them here.

I am north of Seattle about an hour, sometimes my work takes me southward, PM me and next time I am in the area I can swing by and look over your ride.

good luck.
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by lucafusi »

Petros wrote:welcome to the forum,

all good answers here, once you do a good tune up and set the timing to 10 deg BTDC, look for vacuum leaks and misrouted vac lines, you may find your power and throttle response is not too bad, once you get used to it. If it still seems excessively slow on acceleration you might do a compression check just to make sure you have reasonable compression. Also, read up on checking that the AAP is working (you just pull off teh vac line and look for fuel in the line, there should not be any). If that is leaky it will be down on power, and get bad fuel economy. Than see if the catalytic converter is not plugged up. And none of your brakes are draging.

If in a good stat of tune, and all systems are operating normally, you will find the stock carb is actually fairly responsive and operates well in all conditions, except on start up in very cold and very hot conditions (after warm up it is back to normal).

Somewhere I made a list of recommened tools to work on the Tercel. If you can not find it, let me know and I will list them here.

I am north of Seattle about an hour, sometimes my work takes me southward, PM me and next time I am in the area I can swing by and look over your ride.

good luck.
Thank you--feel welcome to be here! I'll shoot you a PM, seems like there's a ton of y'all up around the PNW..

So I've got a free day this weekend and want to start getting dirty. Peeked under the hood a bit today and took a few shots, still trying to get a sense of the layout of it all while reading around the site here. So I spoke with the previous owner and it seems like everything from the shot list I took from this site, bar the fuel filter, has been done in the past year or so. He sent the car along with a couple of genuine Toyota oil filters and one fuel filter, and apparently I don't need new oil in there for another 1500 miles or so.

Here's what I'm thinking as my first three items of business:
  • Change the fuel filter out. The manual shows this:

    Image

    Is this the guy?

    Image

    EDIT: I'm pretty sure I'm stupid and the manual clipping shows the underside of the car (tires on left/right), which means getting a jack and getting in there, eh..

    I figure I can take it with YouTube videos from there, didn't manage to find anything in searching the Repair subsection (probably because changing a fuel filter's such a bone easy job around here that no one needs a tutorial).. but maybe my search-fu sucks.
  • I'm going to pick up a compression tester as well, just because that's the first thing recommended you do on the FAQ and I may as well know where I stand on overall engine life (mileage is 166k). Is something like this total overkill given the likely frequency I'll be testing compression?
  • A third thing I figure I can get a sense for this weekend would be the vac line routing, as it seems to be a really common source of issues.

    Opening the hood, off the bat I noticed that there were two big crinkly hoses that were free floating--is that what those guys are? I wonder if they just dislodged during shipping or they were left off the engine on purpose? Here's a picture: Image

    Seems like a thing I probably want to reattach. Can I just pick up some vacuum hosing online and duct tape the bottom hose back in / screw the clamp down for the black rubberized port on the left? Or should I be buying clamps for the bottom hose as well and doing it properly?

    I'm thinking these may not even be the vacuum tubing, though..

    What's my general goal with tracing the vac lines, just make sure everything's going to the right spots? Should I be aiming to replace any physical tubing here or just check that stuff's snugged up?
Bonus round:
  • Adjusting timings. Worth doing on my first day under the hood? Or do it as part of a larger teardown? Is this is ignition system here? Image Image

    If so, looks like I have some clearance to get in there with a wrench (?) and adjust it without having to break everything down...
  • I was scrolling through the manual and saw this tool re: changing the differential / transmission oils. Is it some kind of vertical oil siphon?
    Image
Other Thoughts / The Transmission and Manual Technique
I also have some questions re: best practices for extending the transmission life on this guy, as it seems that's one of the harder to find pieces in the restoration puzzle if and when it goes. The Internet also seems heavily divided on how to do it well, e.g. use neutral to coast (or don't), learn to rev match so you can slide between gears and use the actual clutch as little as possible.
  • Besides, I guess, maintaining and changing the fluids involved with it (trans and differential fluids?), is most of what you can do to keep it running healthily to not drive like a madman, keep RPMs kinda low overall?
  • What about shifting technique--double clutch on up shifts (into neutral, let RPMs come down a touch, again into the higher gear) or just go straightaways in?
  • Worth bothering to try to learn the heel-toe downshift of engaging the clutch, braking while giving a little acceleration to bring RPMs up before heading into a lower gear so the shift doesn't feel as steep?
I've driven a few manuals, and this feels pretty forgiving, but I was never formally taught how to do it so I probably have lots of bad habits, like going into neutral for coasts downhills / while rolling up to a light, 'guessing' the gear I'll be need to be in coming out and then going into it from there instead of properly downshifting or engine braking.

I'm also finding that I spend a TON of time in 2nd (and, sort of, 3rd) with this car, and I really need to get the RPMs up to 3.5kish+ in 2nd to get myself up to speed in regular city driving on even slightly inclined ground. From there, 3rd / 4th / 5th feel pretty interchangeable unless the incline shifts again. But, high RPMs scare me, and I don't want to burn this guy out--so if that's not the way you're supposed to roll, it'd be good to stop doing it now.

Gallery
Some general pictures of the thing in case you guys can spot any glaring issues by sight alone (who knows).
Image
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Image
Image
Image
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1984 Tercel 4x4 SR5
lucafusi
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by lucafusi »

So both the manual I found here (1985) and the vac routing diagram seem a little out of sync with my vehicle: 1985 vs. 1984, 3A-C vs. 3A.

Will this roadmap double for the 3A?
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1984 Tercel 4x4 SR5
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by Notmikeb »

That vacuum diagram looks like it applies to your engine.

The two hoses you found disconnected aren't vacuum lines. The rubber one is what brings fresh air to the air filter and the silver coil underneath brings hot air from around the exhaust to help warm up the carburetor. Neither is crucial to proper running but should be reconnected nonetheless if they're otherwise in good shape.

The fuel filter is below what you have circled above. What you circled is the reservoir for your brake fluid. The filter is below that and slightly towards the center of the engine compartment. Very easy to change. Just undo the hose clamps and slide the old one out of its holder. Install the new one and reconnect hoses. Done.

The timing is also easy to adjust but first you must disconnect the advance vacuum line. The correct line to disconnect is the one shown in green on the above diagram. Once that is disconnected plug the line with something so it doesn't leak vacuum while you're adjusting your timing. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt (use a 12mm open end wrench) and connect your timing light to both battery terminals and the number 1 spark plug wire. With the engine running point your timing light at the main pulley at the bottom front of the engine. You'll see a mark on the inside edge of the pulley lining up with the timing marks on the timing cover. Factory is 5* BTDC but the car will run better at 10. Slowly turn the distributor until the mark moves to where you want it and then tighten down the clamp bolt. Make sure to reconnect your vacuum line.

Checking vacuum lines is as simple as following the above diagram and following each line from their source to their respective component. Make sure that the hose is in good condition and not brittle or cracked. Replace any suspect lines with a new section. Also, don't assume that they are run correctly. As I discovered on my car, many systems were dubiously disabled due to a previous owner or mechanic's attempt to "fix" something. There is a more extensive way to check the lines further if you are showing symptoms of a vacuum leak but this is a good place to start.

While you're poking around the engine, check for any signs of leakage. Most of the common leaks are pretty easy to fix and a clean engine will run cooler and last longer. Good luck!!!
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by Petros »

that vac diagram should be good for your car, it has the HAC (high altitude compesator, in the last picture). You will have to learn where these things are located. You might wait until you meet with someone to point out this stuff so you do not break something by accident.

The fuel filter is below that thing you have circled (that is the brake master cylinder resivoir, only put brake fluid in it and do not over fill it). the fuel filter is below it on the left inner fender (those schematic diagrams are not really helpful to help you locate the components, but to assist you in tracing how the lines or wires are routed). Pull out the new fuel filter from the box and look around for something similar down low on the left inner fender well (that is left from the drivers perspective). Just make sure you get the "in" and "out" lines correct, there are little arrows on the top of the filter assembly. It is held in place with a clip.

those inlet tubes on the air filter assembly inlet are an easy fix, they are the cold air inlet (that you can fix with a screw driver, push it back on to the air filter assembly inlet and tighten the clamp), the other lower one (the papery looking one) draws hot air off the exhaust manifold to warm the inlet air on cold days to prevent ice from forming in the carb. That you can fix with duct tape, or replace it with a generic one from an auto parts store (nothing special about it, and will run fine without it unless you routinely drive it where is well below freezing...I have mine removed and do not miss it).

I would not recommend buying a compression tester, you do not really need them that often. You can rent one for free from Autozone (you pay and than bring it back within a week and they refund your money). Other autoparts stores do this too, so it is not necessary to buy one.

tools I always carry in the car (and are a good starter set of tools) are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm sockets (with handles) and combo wrenches, several socket extension and socket u-joint, long nose pliers, wire cutters, adjustable wrench, small volt-ome meter, one each Philips and flat screwdriver. a roll each of duct tape and electrical tape. BTW, there are no nuts or bolts on the Tercel that are not the size I listed (except a few of the larger ones I list below). So you will never use any of the smaller sockets that are not listed below 19 mm.

If you are going to do suspension work than a good size hammer (ball peen or small sledge are best, but any hammer will do), a "soft" hammer (plastic), and a large breaker bar handle and several larger 1/2" drive sockets (17, 19, 24, and 30mm, or what ever the axle nut size, I think it is 30 mm). And several different size 1/2" extensions as well. A 30" or so pry bar is also handy, I sometimes use a builder's "flat bar", or crow bar. Two jack stands are a must. More is sometimes better. A hydraulic floor jack is really handy, but the scissors jack that comes with the car will do in a pinch. Some kind of sharp utility knife or disposable box cutter type of blade is also handy for a lot of things, and a putty knife type scraper (I sharpen the end with fine wet and dry sand paper on a hard surface).

If you want to add to this further, a 1/4" drive socket set with 8, 10 and 12 mm sockets, ratchet handle and a u-joint is great for hard to reach fasteners. and all of the sockets sizes listed above in deep sockets (though you will not need these very often except perhaps in 10, 12, 14, and 17 mm). some quality scissors will get used for lots of things, as does a punch and a metal chisel.

Unless you can afford the big sets, I would advise again them. You get a lot of stuff you will never use. When I was in High School and starting to work on cars for money, I bought a big comprehensive combo metric and SAE tool set, many of which I still have and use 40 years later. But it also came with a lot of seemingly handy little odds and ends, most of which I have never used. And there are the odd 9 mm and 11mm sockets and wrenches, which I have never used either (on neither any Japanese car nor European vehicles, and I have worked on a lot of different kinds of cars and light trucks). Those standard pliers are almost useless, but the channel lock type off set pliers and Vice-grip type, are good for lots of things, particularly gripping chewed up nuts, bolt heads and studs.

I have found the cheapest way to get quality tools is to hunt for mismatched and individual items at second hand stores, pawn shops and rummage/garage sales. Usually sets are too costly, look for loose individual sockets, handles and extensions, and only buy the quality name brand tools out of the mis-match bins of tools (craftsman, proto, Snap-on, Mac, matco, S & K, KD and similar, they will last forever). Avoid the Chinese made tools, hardly worth it, they wear out and break.

As you work on the car you will find what you like to use, and not so much. And buy more as you find you use them. I went for years without the large sharp nosed brake plier set, but found that long one with the 45 deg bend in the end is really great for a lot of hard to reach clamps and hard to remove hoses and snap rings. the 45 deg bend is great for extra leverage for prying things off or open. Eventually you will find both larger and small screw drivers of both flat and Philips tip useful, but you can get by with just the mid size ones for now. Also, I do not carry them in a tool box, but rather a soft (but heavy duty) tool bag with a big zipper closure. it is a lot nicer to carry in the back of the car.

Take each of your repairs one step at a time, do only one repair at a time (not all at once!), and put everything back the way you found it (make sure you mark everything with tape tags and numbers so you can get it back on in the right place). That way if it will not run right you only have to check over what you changed, rather than a long list of stuff you pulled off and than reinstalled. "If it ain't broke, DO NOT fix it!"

Good luck.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by lucafusi »

Notmikeb wrote:That vacuum diagram looks like it applies to your engine.
The two hoses you found disconnected aren't vacuum lines. The rubber one is what brings fresh air to the air filter and the silver coil underneath brings hot air from around the exhaust to help warm up the carburetor. Neither is crucial to proper running but should be reconnected nonetheless if they're otherwise in good shape.
Petros wrote: those inlet tubes on the air filter assembly inlet are an easy fix, they are the cold air inlet (that you can fix with a screw driver, push it back on to the air filter assembly inlet and tighten the clamp), the other lower one (the papery looking one) draws hot air off the exhaust manifold to warm the inlet air on cold days to prevent ice from forming in the carb. That you can fix with duct tape, or replace it with a generic one from an auto parts store (nothing special about it, and will run fine without it unless you routinely drive it where is well below freezing...I have mine removed and do not miss it).
I'll re-clamp the cold air inlet and buy some not-nasty replacement housing for the hot air intake.

Sounds like the fuel filter shouldn't be too terrible a fix, either--dunno why I didn't think to just take the part out of the box and start looking around for a matching piece..

I've got another thing I wanted to write off because I'm a first-time car owner and I assumed the 'granpda' smell of this guy just came with the car. But, I'm noticing that it's really gasoline fumey in the cab when I first get into it. A passenger of mine picked up on the same thing. I haven't seen anything pooling up under the car, but a gas small seems pretty concerning! May also have something to do with the fact that I've gone through half a tank of gas on ~4hrs city driving over the past few days; tough to know fuel economy when the tripometer's broken and you didn't snap your odometer on fill-up (which I'll do next time).

Seems like these are both good resources for troubleshooting that fuel smell: In the case that the fuel pump needs replacement, is there an official part I should be looking for? See people on here talking about electric fuel pumps vs. (I'm guessing) whatever shipped standard on these guys way back when.

I figure I can look at all of that as I'm changing the fuel filter. Cut the old one open and see if there's any rust in it to see if the gas tank's in reasonable, not rust-shedding state as well.
Notmikeb wrote:While you're poking around the engine, check for any signs of leakage. Most of the common leaks are pretty easy to fix and a clean engine will run cooler and last longer. Good luck!!!
Will leakage seem pretty apparent, e.g. liquid pooling anywhere / connections being wet? Should I run the car for a bit and then shut off to assess leaks, in case they're ones that don't appear until the engine's been going for a bit? Feel like any leaking fuel would probably evaporate pretty quickly so I wanna give myself the best odds I can of spotting it.

Thanks again guys!
1984 Tercel 4x4 SR5
Notmikeb
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Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:53 am
My tercel:: 85 Tercel 5dr FWD
Location: Laurel, MD

Re: A Total Novice's Start with a 1984 4x4 SR5 -- Advice Thread

Post by Notmikeb »

When assessing the engine compartment for leaks, I find it is better to start fresh. Start with some canned engine degreaser and a brush and get as much junk cleaned off the engine as possible. Then hose off the excess. Take care not to spray down any electrical components like the alternator, distributor or fuse box. Once the engine is clean it will be easier to assess not only what if any leaks are ongoing but also it will be easier to determine their source.
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1985 Tercel 5dr Hatchback
2003 Chevy Suburban
2014 Ford Flex

"I don't get it! I've cut this thing FIVE times now and it's STILL too SHORT!"
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